Over looking something??
- Thread starter InlandZJ
- Start date
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
So lets get some terminology straight. Turn over means to crank. Firing means it is at least sputtering.
So do you mean it is cranking but simply not firing?
If so, double check that the plugs aren't wet fouled. Have you tried come carb cleaner or ether down the intake?
What have you been doing/not doing to the vehicle?
So do you mean it is cranking but simply not firing?
If so, double check that the plugs aren't wet fouled. Have you tried come carb cleaner or ether down the intake?
What have you been doing/not doing to the vehicle?
Not firing, and i wheel it when i can and take care of the fuids ect... regular maintenance. Just went to spart it and would crank and start for a sec and then continue to crank. i have found some foul points under the distributor cap and rotor and just replaced it and still just cranks once earlier i sprayed the carb cleaner down the throat and it tried to fire almost but nothin. spark plugs not a year old yet. but i will check these as well. One other thing i have not replaced would be the ignition coil its probably over four years old maybe.
spark plugs a in good shape not fouled or burned.:thumbup: Now it might not be getting any spark how to check this without gettin shocked or can i just pull a plug wire were its almost touching the spark plug tip and see from this? Any other way and if it is not getting the spark then are the wires faulty then again no abuse to these ethier and maybe a year or less old.
Scorpion8
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Juneau, AK
Do you have fuel pressure?
GrimmJeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardena, CA
CPS as i stated in your other thread. you can see if it's getting fuel by pushing in the schrader valve on the fuel rail. if gas squirts out you're getting fuel.
Alaskan89XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Alaska
Coil Wire; Remove the end that goes to the Distributor. Slide back the rubber boot to expose raw metal female end. Hold wire with an insulated pair of pliers, or a couple of sticks.., and place the metal end to about 1/16th, or 1/8th inch from some metal, i.e., engine block, valve cover, inner fender, etc., and have someone crank engine several turns to see if you get 'spark' to cross the gap made. If no assistant is available, (or if the rubber boot does not want to 'slide' back on the wire), then set up coil wire end with a small piece of metal into the female socket end, i.e., a nail, and securely place that end with the nail up towards some engine compartment metal area, i.e., as above, in an area in which you can visually see that end from within whatever zone you are, i.e., inside, or outside from the ignition switch.., and go crank the engine. Due to the fact that the engine cranks will vibrate, or bounce the engine around, etc., it is necessary to be sure you 'secure' the coil wire with it's nail, nearly up against metal .., so try to do so with string, a block of wood, your boot.., lol, whatever, so that when you crank you will be able to see if you have spark, or not. No sparky, then bad coil, or bad ground, (the former more likely than the latter). If good, check all spark wires with same proceedure in order to check each and every one of them to make sure that they are good, and that none are adding up to resistance failure. If some of your wires are bad, or plugs, the juice from the coil will want to go through the inner distributor cap contact nodes, but have no easy path to go.., but to burn a little bit there. Wires are funny. Some recommend that they must not be abused in any manner, i.e., carefully installed, insuring good separations between them, and left alone. Some say they are fragile, and moving them around ape-like, especially in cold frozen weather can damage them. There is a way to check each wire resistance values, as per their inch lengths, with a simple cheap ohm meter. Seems the better wires have more insulation around them then the cheaper wires, etc. Plugs have a similar fate, i.e., some are better than others.., and that too is another debate. Once you have established good spark, and good flow.., then you have removed these as variables to your problem. Other members will be able to guide you further, as I am a novice to the XJ.:eyes:
- Location
- Southern Maryland
Since it's sputtering on start, try holding the pedal to the floor. Sometimes the idle air valve goes wonky or the computer isn't able to properly control it, and the engine starves for air.
I did that and pumped the peddle and did not even smell fuel
GrimmJeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardena, CA
did you push the valve on the fuel rail to see if you were building fuel pressure or not?
Negative Grimmm I gave up for now and need to get up the crack of dawn for work. Do you happen to have a pic of the cps were exactly its located? i need to dig into this tomorrow there is a plastic cover on the rail is thevalve on the ends somewere. The chiltons manual is not that detail with a picture were it is :read:
Thanks for the feed back
GrimmJeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardena, CA
if it's trying to sputter and start you're getting spark, especially if it will try to start with starting fluid.
There is a small cap that looks like a tire valve cap on the fuel rail, unscrew it and underneath is pretty much the same thing you see on a tire valve. push it in with your key and if it shoots fuel out all over you have fuel pressure. if it just dribbles out you have a fuel delivery issue.
the CPS tells the computer when to tell the coil to send the spark to the distributor cap, if it is sputtering and trying to start at all the CPS is not your issue - but it is on the transmission bellhousing on the drivers side at about the 2 o'clock position if looking from the front of the jeep.
what year is your rig? and is this a ZJ? I'm assuming its a 4.0 since you're posting here but all this info might help us troubleshoot it or tell you where to start.
There is a small cap that looks like a tire valve cap on the fuel rail, unscrew it and underneath is pretty much the same thing you see on a tire valve. push it in with your key and if it shoots fuel out all over you have fuel pressure. if it just dribbles out you have a fuel delivery issue.
the CPS tells the computer when to tell the coil to send the spark to the distributor cap, if it is sputtering and trying to start at all the CPS is not your issue - but it is on the transmission bellhousing on the drivers side at about the 2 o'clock position if looking from the front of the jeep.
what year is your rig? and is this a ZJ? I'm assuming its a 4.0 since you're posting here but all this info might help us troubleshoot it or tell you where to start.
