From your profile it looks like you have a '96. If I'm correct that means it has the older style dash. If so you just need to pull out the guage cluster bezel(I think 4 screws) remove the guage cluster it self (Another 4 screws, two wiring harnesses and the speedo cable), and the bulbs are in plastic twist in connectors on the back side. It's actually pretty easy it'll take maybe a half hour or so I'd think. I did it on my '87 MJ when I was trying to track down an electrical issue and it wasn't really a headache at all.
Good Luck
Pat