Newbie XJ build (mild)

On Tue of last week, I contacted NAXJA member Lowrange2 and purchased some Ravine wheels he had. On Thu I had new Cooper tires installed. I was looking at General AT2 in 30/9.5/15 but decided on Cooper Discoverer AT3 in 31/10.5/15 they actually have a diameter of 30.2 in so they work out rather well. So far I love the ride quality and I think the wheels really set this Jeep apart.





 
Looks great!
 
Well, after the "lift" and new U-joints, I still had a touch of vube in the drivetrain. Today, we replaced the transmission mount and while we were at it, removed the crossmember studs and used new bolts. Also replaced the diff yoke straps. Guess what...no more vibrations.

Old Mount...notice the cracks in the rubber


New Mount...nice and shiny


New bolts
 
So with the nasty weather this weekend, the only thing we got accomplished was to remove the rear swaybar and install JKS discos up front. It is kinda funny. I have Eric's book http://www.ericsxj.com/book.htm and my youngest son was reading it and asks me why we have not removedthe rear sway bar yet. He will make a great mechanic someday...for now he just help daddy.



My "Little Helper"



New Disco

 
I think its great you have your kid helping out. At this point he probably knows more about cars than the majority of people on the road today.
 
Back to the interior...because sometimes form over function ya know...

I have always loathed grip handle auto shift levers...and the Jeep variety are no different...just dont like them. Maybe it is because I would rather have a stick shift anyway. I saw this product on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y5L8ZQG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1CY9W9X7FI3VI&coliid=I2XWZ6WXKOZHLL and decided to try it out. Mind you, it comes with NO instructions, I had to google / youtube up some directions and had to modify a little beyond that.

This is what came in the box

 
We are going to use the larger diameter inner sleeve, but it is a tight fit, and leaves no room to get the set screw seated so this is where we have to modify. After test fitting and checking function, I drilled a divot where the set screw will land. It serves a dual purpose, 1. allows the screw to seat deep enough to get a good thread bite and 2. prevents slippage in all axis.

Counter Bore Divot



Inner Sleeve

 
All that is left to do is slide the base over the inner sleeve and install the set screw. It serves two puposes, secure the inner sleeve and keep the base from lifting off. Finally, screw the gumball onto the base. They offer various different balls. I was leaning toward an "8" ball but decided on a plain white instead.



 
Looks good! I see you've also modified your center vent. Very "high speed". Do you think any late models do this? Mine and my dad's 93 center vents are supported with pennies.
 
Thanks for the info on the harness. Seeing the quality of the Headlight Services unit pushed me to finally get this done. The headlightservices.com harness fit perfectly into my 1997. No soldering, no cutting just an exact plug in fit. I attached my relays on the cruise control mount. The install looks factory. Thanks again for pointing out a great product.
 
Well it has been a month since my last update. Just normal stuff...you know, drive the piss out of the XJ. Finally decided to do my second oil change. This time, I used Brad Penn 10w30. It has a high ZDDP content which I like for my older Porsche motors, so why not this one. I have also changed to Wix filters. While I was at it, I decided to install the Brown Dog motor mounts...WOW what a quality product. The passenger side was a bitch to get at with the A/C lines in the way, but the drivers side was rather easy once the air box was removed.



 
So I have been researching upgraded fuel injectors. I chose to go with the Bosch 715 injectors. They are almost a direct match to my factory 96 units for flow rate. They do not use locking clips, but I feel that those are not needed anyway.



The old injectors were a bear to remove...the seals had almost petrified. After removing the old ones, and cleaning the rail, the new ones are installed.



Of course, I cleaned the injector ports well. I used a dental pick to work out the stuborn bits and finished cleaning with a rag soaked in carb cleaner. The fuel rail with new injectors popped right in and bolted up perfectly.

 
Since I was upgrading today, I decided to replace my plugs, wires, cap and rotor...as well as the coil. I read an interesting article about fuel mileage in the XJ http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/my-goal-get-25-mpg-my-99-xj-30-x-9-5-r15-ats-1551782/ and used that as a basis for some of my modifications. Most of it falls right in line with things I would do on a racecar for more power so I understand the logic.

I used NGK plugs and opened the gap to .045 The wires are Magnecor but without an external ignition box, there is no reason for 8.5mm wires.



Cap and Rotor are a Firepower unit with brass contacts I got from Quadratec http://www.quadratec.com/products/55101_60X_PG.htm



While I know the factory coil is more than capable of firing my plug gap, I chose to replace it due to age and use...19yrs and 200k miles. I used an MSD replacement unit.

 
Initial driving impressions...whatever. Does it feel like it has more power or do I think it has more power because I KNOW I changed things...I don't know. What I do know is what the dyno would tell us with our racecars (Datsun and Porsche). Magnecor wires work better than (insert your favorite brand) and because they are made of Aviation grade materials will last longer. Opening the plug gap does yield more power. Brass does conduct better than Aluminum alloy. Rebuilt and flow benched injectors do flow better and more precise patterns. 4 hole injectors do produce a better atomized fuel mixture. And finally, new coils do perform better than very old / tired coils. So all in all I think these "upgrades" are worthwhile.
 
Immediately after these "upgrades" I noticed the motor ticking / knocking like crazy. I watched about 20 different videos about various Jeep L6 engine noises. I finally grabbed my stethoscope and decided to isolate the problem. Turns out, the original distributor had had about enough. The shaft was as loose and wobbly as a hot dog thrown down a hallway. After replacing it with a new one courtesy of Vato Zone, the noise is gone. Now I did the "smart thing" and did not use the Taiwanese manufactured electronics in the dizzy. I swapped the factory Jeep parts into it instead.

Up next, HESCO high flow thermostat housing and new 195deg Thermostat.
 
So, I have had new brake parts sitting on the shelf for about a month now. I hemmed and hawed for about a month before that on what to do for braking. I decided on new EBC plain rotors, and 7000 series Greenstuff SUV pads. What I like about the EBC stuff is the company's comittment to maintain US and UK production...no chinese crap for my brakes. Also installed reman calipers and Crown Performance extended brake lines. http://www.crownperformance.com/jeep-cherokee-sportswagon-mid-size-xj-series-1990-2001-0-2-lift-stainless-steel-brake-line-kit/



 
SuperB60ce said:
Immediately after these "upgrades" I noticed the motor ticking / knocking like crazy. I watched about 20 different videos about various Jeep L6 engine noises. I finally grabbed my stethoscope and decided to isolate the problem. Turns out, the original distributor had had about enough. The shaft was as loose and wobbly as a hot dog thrown down a hallway. After replacing it with a new one courtesy of Vato Zone, the noise is gone. Now I did the "smart thing" and did not use the Taiwanese manufactured electronics in the dizzy. I swapped the factory Jeep parts into it instead.

Up next, HESCO high flow thermostat housing and new 195deg Thermostat.
Click to expand...

FYI, that "high flow" housing is a joke. They just mill a little out of the top of the a factory housing. Does absolutely nothing. Just buy a factory one. If you want the supposed high flow you can get a die grinder.
 
Thanks for the objective analysis and perspective. Your functional approach is inspiring and will net a killer tight Jeep!

Mileage impact?

Braking impressions?
 
bentroia said:
Thanks for the objective analysis and perspective. Your functional approach is inspiring and will net a killer tight Jeep!

Mileage impact?

Braking impressions?
Click to expand...

Tough to say on the mileage impact...has been all city driving since the "upgrades"

As far as braking goes...The EBC pads do bed rather quickly, but I just did it today. However, I have used EBC stuff before (numerous TJs and the wifes Honda) and they have good initial cold bite. Anything would have been better than the cracked and glazed pads, and burnt rotors that were on it.
 
***UPDATE***
The Bosche 715 injectors did not work out well, I have removed them and gone back to stock. I am now on my second set of brakes...opted to cut the rotors and try old school Metal Master pads. I am about to undertake replacing the header (cracked) with a Gibson unit (already have the Gibson Cat Back) and will install Bosch 703 injectors and replace the Valve cover gasket while I'm at it...more to follow, as well as pics
 
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