Anyone willing to help me with my NSS? It's stuck on there pretty good, ive tried just about everything, talked to a guy at a tranny shop, its $70/hour...Idc if my reverse lights work or not, as long as i dont have to go under my hood with a damn paperclip just to start it every morning in the cold...Im willing to travel a little ways, no idea how else to go upon this other than borrowing more money from the parents and having some mechanic be responsible for breaking it.
Need Help Replacing NSS
- Thread starter BBeach
- Start date
Waterhammer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New York, but not really
I'm assuming you mean neutral saftey sw? What year and trans... I could possibly talk you through it.
Its a 98, ive somehow got two other threads for it, but that was as far as help, I could give it another shot i guess.Waterhammer said:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=902025
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=901960
Its just a matter of getting the thing off, but im at the point where i dont care if i clean it, i just want my jeep to start without jumping it with a paperclip. If you've got any ideas for that then thanks a bunch in advance.
Waterhammer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New York, but not really
I just read your last threads. When I removed my NSS, which seems the same from the picture you posted, I was able to get a small flat-head driver between the unit and the tranny. It sucked and didn't want to come off. Not so much because it was stuck on but because if you don't put equal stress all the way around that shaft as you pull it's going to bind on itself. Therefore utilize that space between the sensor and the tranny to get the most focused purchase you can. But just to check, you took the big nut off as well as the retaining ring right?... Good, I thought you did. I hope this helps...
I took off the big nut, the thing under it with the tabs, and a thin washerlike thing that was made of a soft material (cant think of the right terms). I did try prying on both sides and just about everything. Its just tough with tranny lines, wires, and that exhaust pipe in the way. I might give it one more shot but ive pretty much had it.
heapxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Berlin, CT.
I have the same problem with my '97. Where are you using this paperclip? It's pouring here and I want to bring it in the garage to work on it. thanks
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Take off the collet nut (around the shaft) and the adjusting screw (about 3" above the shaft.) There should be no other fasteners.
Get some flat mild steel stock (1/8" or thereabouts, two bits about an inch wide and a foot long) and put them BETWEEN the NSS case and the transmission case. Slowly pry alternately using the two bits of stock to break the NSS loose. If you have trouble even then, and PB Blaster isn't helping, GENTLY heat up the end of the shift shaft (that's the bit sticking through) until you can touch a bit of wax to it near the NSS and it melts. Heat it a bit more, and let the wax wick in between the shaft and NSS collet. Consider this a "weapon of last resort" tho - it's painfully easy to screw up the shift shaft seal...
Once the NSS comes loose, you should be able to remove it by hand.
DO NOT loosen the collet nut and pry on that - not only does it not offer a useful bearing surface, but you can pull the threads off of the collet that way!
DO NOT use flat stock more than 3/16" thick - the idea here is to have something with a little "spring" to it, so you don't crack the NSS.
Assembly tips...
Chuck a wire wheel in a drill motor and clean the shift shaft THOROUGHLY while you've got the NSS apart.
Apply some never-seez to the shift shaft before you put the NSS back on.
Torque the adjuster screw (up top) to, I believe, 12 pound-feet/144 pound-inches - most of those torque specs are on my site (link in sig.)
Torque the collet nut to NOT MORE THAN 61 pound-inches, you can use 4 to 5 pound-feet (48-60 pound-inches) if you don't have a pound-inch torque wrench. DO NOT LUBRICATE THE COLLET NUT THREADS!
It's painfully easy to crack the NSS housing (I've tried to fix a few that other people have broken - no soap,) and it's a beast to buy. Even on ebay, expect to pay $160 or more (OEMR, around $300) - so let that temper your approach. It CAN be removed and serviced, it just takes a little effort to do correctly...
I really should do that writeup sometime...
5-90
Get some flat mild steel stock (1/8" or thereabouts, two bits about an inch wide and a foot long) and put them BETWEEN the NSS case and the transmission case. Slowly pry alternately using the two bits of stock to break the NSS loose. If you have trouble even then, and PB Blaster isn't helping, GENTLY heat up the end of the shift shaft (that's the bit sticking through) until you can touch a bit of wax to it near the NSS and it melts. Heat it a bit more, and let the wax wick in between the shaft and NSS collet. Consider this a "weapon of last resort" tho - it's painfully easy to screw up the shift shaft seal...
Once the NSS comes loose, you should be able to remove it by hand.
DO NOT loosen the collet nut and pry on that - not only does it not offer a useful bearing surface, but you can pull the threads off of the collet that way!
DO NOT use flat stock more than 3/16" thick - the idea here is to have something with a little "spring" to it, so you don't crack the NSS.
Assembly tips...
Chuck a wire wheel in a drill motor and clean the shift shaft THOROUGHLY while you've got the NSS apart.
Apply some never-seez to the shift shaft before you put the NSS back on.
Torque the adjuster screw (up top) to, I believe, 12 pound-feet/144 pound-inches - most of those torque specs are on my site (link in sig.)
Torque the collet nut to NOT MORE THAN 61 pound-inches, you can use 4 to 5 pound-feet (48-60 pound-inches) if you don't have a pound-inch torque wrench. DO NOT LUBRICATE THE COLLET NUT THREADS!
It's painfully easy to crack the NSS housing (I've tried to fix a few that other people have broken - no soap,) and it's a beast to buy. Even on ebay, expect to pay $160 or more (OEMR, around $300) - so let that temper your approach. It CAN be removed and serviced, it just takes a little effort to do correctly...
I really should do that writeup sometime...
5-90
Also, 5-90, ive tried putting a thin screwdriver between the lower part of the NSS and the transmission and pulling with my hand on the top part. It feels as if its just stuck on the shaft, im not sure if its because its cold outside (a little above freezing in my garage when im working on this) and it froze on or what. Ive already gone through 3-4 separate attempts to get this thing off, if i do try it one last time, maybe a hair drier could work. The last time i had a small space heater in which i aimed at it while i was eating supper. HeapXJ, please let me know how this worked out for you, i might go to a few places tomorrow to see how hard it would be to replace it.
ClassicXJ
NAXJA Member #1276
- Location
- Westfield, MA
I've got a 94 AW4 tranny sitting in my garage if you need it. Won't cost you a dime just come and get it in Westfield, MA
PM me if you want some more info
PM me if you want some more info
The 97+ NSS is different. Im not positive if i could splice the two together or not. I really wish it was a 97 or up. Do you know the condition of the NSS? Or have taken it off or something. But even then i ordered one from auto zone because the parents are pretty much making me. :banghead:
I know that the guy that answers the phone at endangered species in holyoke is looking for one too cause when i called they said he needed one too. Thanks a lot for the offer though, and if things dont go through with auto zone ill let you know.
I know that the guy that answers the phone at endangered species in holyoke is looking for one too cause when i called they said he needed one too. Thanks a lot for the offer though, and if things dont go through with auto zone ill let you know.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
If you use heat on something like that, you either apply heat to the part with the hole in it (and keep the shaft cool,) or you apply heat to the shaft and apply some semisolid lubricant (like wax) to wick in between the shaft and the hole (that's a little trick I learned to get oil galley plugs out, when they've been in place for 40 years or so...)
I haven't found an effective way to salvage switch housings, but I'd like to see if I can talk you out of that one - since I'm working on ideas anyhow. Getting it broken isn't a problem for me - saves me breaking the thing to figure out how to stick it back together. As long as I get all the pieces, I'm good.
You can strip the black corrugate tubing off of the loom (I don't need that,) but I do prefer that you don't otherwise mess with the wiring. Removeing the corrugate tubing just makes it easier to pack into a smaller box, that's all...
5-90
I haven't found an effective way to salvage switch housings, but I'd like to see if I can talk you out of that one - since I'm working on ideas anyhow. Getting it broken isn't a problem for me - saves me breaking the thing to figure out how to stick it back together. As long as I get all the pieces, I'm good.
You can strip the black corrugate tubing off of the loom (I don't need that,) but I do prefer that you don't otherwise mess with the wiring. Removeing the corrugate tubing just makes it easier to pack into a smaller box, that's all...
5-90
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
BBeach said:
In order...
Yes, I would.
Don't know - I typically seal mine up when I rebuild them, since they're exposed to water, oil, road crud, and whatever. Besides, I've got an awful habit of driving through puddles (maybe I should put a soap dispenser on the header panel?) Frankly, I wouldn't want to try an NSS with a known crack in the housing - which is why I'm looking into ways to rebuild and reseal cracked units effectively...
5-90
Im not sure its worth the hassle with the cracked case, im not sure if you've seen a pic of it but its not too too bad. Like i said, maybe i could take his rotor and swap it into mine, then reseal it. In the case i didnt do this, and just install the brand new one, send me a few bucks or something and ill send you a broken nss. :laugh:
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
If you decide to replace it outright, PM or email me (5-90 AT naxja DOT org) and I'll cover your nut for shipping. Good? Maybe I'll toss in a few extra for the beer I know you'll need by the time it's all said and done... As I've said, I've done a few of these...
5-90
5-90
Alrite well i got the new one in there 5-90, but the problem with the old one is that half of it wanted to stay on so with lots of tugging and pulling it came off. Im not sure if it has value to you though because the "rotor" broke apart and the threaded part is demolished. :clap: Im just happy i got it off, pain in the ass.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Can you take pix of the parts? I can probably use it anyhow, but I'd like to make sure before I have you crate it up (I'd end up taking a hammer and a punch to it anyhow, just to break it, before I could try to reseal it...)
5-90
5-90
