Vanimal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- escondido, ca
offset 1 ton TRE's running OTK will not work well with any 15" rim, FYI.
Need Help Deciding On Axles.
- Thread starter Kingkong0192
- Start date
sardo_67
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- western CT
Yes a 16+ rim is needed.
OP, that $400 I mentioned would be a complete rebuild with new bearings and everything. More than you want to do yourself. The $200 should be more than enough.
I don't have any links to what you need, look on rough stuffs site and their offset TREs are out of stock. Said they should be back just after the 4th holiday.
Vanimal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- escondido, ca
Offset TRE's are not the same thread as any heim, so you'd have to change the threaded inserts in the tie rod and drag link. Also, i'd stay away from a 16" rim since the tire options are fairly crap in larger sizes. 17's are ok if you're going with 35's or bigger, but 33's or smaller would be best on a 15" in my opinion. Most steel rims and a lot of aluminum 15" rims will work fine with a WJ swap as long as you don't use the 1 ton offset TRE's, especially if you have the older Teves calipers. I had aluminum rims and they fit perfectly fine.
Kingkong0192
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Milford, CT
Sardo, have you done anything to the stock axle side track bar mount?
At this point i honestly think it would be a better option for me to rip the WJ knuckles off, bolt on my stock knuckles, and use my current steering setup to put these on my rig.
Set everything else under a tarp outside until i'm ready to step up once again. I know it'll be more work in the long run, but so be it. It'll give me something to do later on.
Once i obtain the knowledge, and my 32s bald, i can buy new 16" rims, and tires to fit that rim instead of worrying about that headache now.
Oh, and i can read up and actually figure out how this setup is done correctly. At this point i haven't a clue what an Offset tie rod end is, or how to set this up properly for that matter.
Let me ask another tire/rim question. I currently have 32x11.5x15 BFG KM2s. Will these only mount to a 15" rim? (my brother bought the rims and i don't have a clue what size they are.) If i were to step up to a 17" rim would i need to buy a BFG KM2 35x12.5x17? Is that how this works?
At this point i honestly think it would be a better option for me to rip the WJ knuckles off, bolt on my stock knuckles, and use my current steering setup to put these on my rig.
Set everything else under a tarp outside until i'm ready to step up once again. I know it'll be more work in the long run, but so be it. It'll give me something to do later on.
Once i obtain the knowledge, and my 32s bald, i can buy new 16" rims, and tires to fit that rim instead of worrying about that headache now.
Oh, and i can read up and actually figure out how this setup is done correctly. At this point i haven't a clue what an Offset tie rod end is, or how to set this up properly for that matter.
Let me ask another tire/rim question. I currently have 32x11.5x15 BFG KM2s. Will these only mount to a 15" rim? (my brother bought the rims and i don't have a clue what size they are.) If i were to step up to a 17" rim would i need to buy a BFG KM2 35x12.5x17? Is that how this works?
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- Location
- WA state
You will need tires that fit on 16" rims, your current tires WILL NOT fit on 16" rims.
- Location
- WA state
Just like the IRO kit, some put a bend in the tie rod for extra clearance for diff cover/other.
Kingkong0192
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Milford, CT
Thank you Johnnie Walker. Plain English in the best English. That makes sense now.
It is possible for me to bolt my knuckles onto that axle and run it with my IRO track bar and currie steering correct?
Ill worry about the WJ brakes when my 32s bald and I'm ready to upgrade to 35s. Ill buy new rims and tires then and figure out how to get that steering to work.
It is possible for me to bolt my knuckles onto that axle and run it with my IRO track bar and currie steering correct?
Ill worry about the WJ brakes when my 32s bald and I'm ready to upgrade to 35s. Ill buy new rims and tires then and figure out how to get that steering to work.
CAJJ93XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Roseville, CA
yes but good god why would you ever. it is very simple to get that axle in there all you have to do is ream your pitman arm if he doesnt have one included already, call ruffstuff and have them walk you through heim replacement, order some seals and swap that sucker in. that's a killer deal I wish I had come across that when I first started building
all the difficult work is done! find a way to make it happen and dip those 32's asap. I'd be all over that setup
edit: also I'm pretty sure I've seen 15x8's with 3.5 or 3.75 bs fit with ground down calipers or rotors.
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Kingkong0192
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Milford, CT
Well i priced out new tires and rims. I think these are the correct tires and the correct rims to fit the tire but i might be wrong.
Rims - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-3978812/overview/
Tires - http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...odel=Mud-Terrain+T/A+KM2&partnum=525QR7KM2RWL
Cost of (5) rims - $457.20
Cost of (5) Tires - $1750.00
Total: $2207.20
I do not want to spend that amount of cash right now just to get WJ brakes working on my XJ.
The only way for me right now is to find a way for my 15x8s to work with them. I have no clue how to grind down rotors or calipers without damaging them but i will google it.
I think i'll look at it like this;
If i can use the WJ setup with my current tires/rims i'll use it, if not, i'll bolt my stock XJ knuckles on and run it like that until my tires bald or a good deal comes up on tires/rims.
Rims - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-3978812/overview/
Tires - http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...odel=Mud-Terrain+T/A+KM2&partnum=525QR7KM2RWL
Cost of (5) rims - $457.20
Cost of (5) Tires - $1750.00
Total: $2207.20
I do not want to spend that amount of cash right now just to get WJ brakes working on my XJ.
The only way for me right now is to find a way for my 15x8s to work with them. I have no clue how to grind down rotors or calipers without damaging them but i will google it.
I think i'll look at it like this;
If i can use the WJ setup with my current tires/rims i'll use it, if not, i'll bolt my stock XJ knuckles on and run it like that until my tires bald or a good deal comes up on tires/rims.
sardo_67
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- western CT
Ok I didn't read through all of that.
Again.... OP THIS WILL BOLT IN AND WORK WITH THE SHIT YOU HAVE NOW.
Look at my classified add, it was on a jeep with 15s.
Calm down, stop getting ahead of yourself, I'm not trying to screw you over here, come over Friday and look at all of this. The steering will work fine on your jeep, just drill out the pitman arm for the heim and bolts.
One thing at a time here. Also look in the NAC section, I have a thread that covers everything I've done to the jeep.
Don't worry about the forums as much, get your hands on some stuff and figure it out in person.
Oh I also have a set of 16s I need to get rid of too. Just god damn meet up Friday, once you see this in person you'll get it.
Again.... OP THIS WILL BOLT IN AND WORK WITH THE SHIT YOU HAVE NOW.
Look at my classified add, it was on a jeep with 15s.
Calm down, stop getting ahead of yourself, I'm not trying to screw you over here, come over Friday and look at all of this. The steering will work fine on your jeep, just drill out the pitman arm for the heim and bolts.
One thing at a time here. Also look in the NAC section, I have a thread that covers everything I've done to the jeep.
Don't worry about the forums as much, get your hands on some stuff and figure it out in person.
Oh I also have a set of 16s I need to get rid of too. Just god damn meet up Friday, once you see this in person you'll get it.
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CAJJ93XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Roseville, CA
do you ever buy used? flip through craigslist for a bit. you'll find a sweet deal on some 35's soon enough no need to blow your wad on new meats
Vanimal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- escondido, ca
Did you not even read my post?
Kingkong0192
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Milford, CT
I'll keep my eye open for some 35s.
I did. Then i read another post and i lost my train of thought and it unclicked.
Got it now. I'll keep my rims and avoid the 1 ton offset TREs. I'll figure it out after i get everything at my house.
I think i'm suffering from information overload. Been reading articles and information for the past few hours.
Holy crap dude, those axles are a great price. Just go buy them before someone else reads this post and scoops them up.
If you are that worried about wheels, go find a set of stock JK Rubi 17's with tires on craigslist for a few hundred bucks until you can swing a new set of wheels and tires that fit perfectly.
If you are that worried about wheels, go find a set of stock JK Rubi 17's with tires on craigslist for a few hundred bucks until you can swing a new set of wheels and tires that fit perfectly.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
JKs use 5x5 lug pattern, don't they?
Outlander560
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New York
yea 5x5....tj rubis tho could work but lets not confuse him more....and please do not and don't even think about grinding down calipers/rotors not a good idea...
Vanimal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- escondido, ca
people grind down the calipers all the time on this swap. it's pretty minor and only in one spot. i didnt need to since mine fit.
no need to grind the rotors though.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Yeah, if you had to grind down the rotors, there would be no chance the caliper would fit at all, seeing as it wraps around the edge of the rotor.
As long as you aren't taking a significant amount off the caliper I see no problems. Grinding the cast separation lines and surface roughness off? Not gonna really matter. Grinding a significant amount off across the entire outer face of the caliper where it wraps around the rotor? It may start flexing and metal fatigue or break eventually, don't do that. Grind the bare minimum you need to give a reasonable clearance between rim and caliper.
As long as you aren't taking a significant amount off the caliper I see no problems. Grinding the cast separation lines and surface roughness off? Not gonna really matter. Grinding a significant amount off across the entire outer face of the caliper where it wraps around the rotor? It may start flexing and metal fatigue or break eventually, don't do that. Grind the bare minimum you need to give a reasonable clearance between rim and caliper.
Outlander560
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New York
I was leaning more towards grinding a significant amount off for the reasons kastein mentioned.
never did the swap before so I can not talk really..it sounded like good amount before but only in small area is fine if need be.
never did the swap before so I can not talk really..it sounded like good amount before but only in small area is fine if need be.
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