N2O 50 shot?

[xuv-this]

so could i make a blower for $450-ish?

 

[5-90]

Not that I know of. That's the catch with blowers - they're fairly spendy (do some junkyard prowling and you might turn up a few things - the Eatons are pretty easy to rebuild. Look a S/C Thunderbird or some V6 Buicks, and you can find Eaton M90's. Check also with Mercedes-Benz, some of the blown benzes have decent-sized Whipples)

Upsides? Fuel management is easier, you don't have to refill the blower, and you can set it up so it's got pressure-fed lubrication so you don't have to change the blower oil at intervals. With a little work, you can also fit some variety of electric clutch to the blower so you can turn it on and off at will (like with a keyswitch, for "Valet mode?")

Also, a blower isn't as tough on an engine as nitrous can get. Nitrous does have its uses (even though it's mainly a street performance mod, since it's only really workable at WOT,) but there are better ways to get where you want to go. Consider also that reliability is a key issue in most Jeep mods, and you see why there aren't so many nitrous-fed Jeeps out there (turbos are fairly uncommon - but blowers are all over. A turbo system, properly designed and supported, is not a bad thing - but blowers are pretty much tops for long-term and remote reliability.)

Could you do a blower system for under $450? Probably not. Could you do one for under $1000? It's a possibility, with a little luck. Will the blower have a lower total cost of ownership? Probably - almost certainly, if you like the "go-fast" pedal...

5-90

 

[MudDawg]

"If it starts popping and banging".......If it pops and bangs you most likely just wrecked the motor.....nitrous don't play games....there is NO room for error.

Been there....have the t/shirt.....I started messing with nitrous long before it became the most popular power adder.....maybe i oughta change my name from MudDawg to OldDawg.

 

[ErikL]

"If it starts popping and banging".......If it pops and bangs you most likely just wrecked the motor.....nitrous don't play games....there is NO room for error.

Been there....have the t/shirt.....I started messing with nitrous long before it became the most popular power adder.....maybe i oughta change my name from MudDawg to OldDawg.

not really.... popping and banging i refered to back fires and misses..... if you blow the motor with a 50 shot then you have no reason touching anything with an engine in it.

if that little of nitrous starts backfiring (banging), or detonation (popping) then you need to address concerns in your fuel system.

i also have alot of expereince with nitrous, blowers, turbos, high compression engines, big inch engines, im just not as old as you

 

[xuv-this]

my xj is running this:
3.5"re coils and links, tomken 4"leafpacks
bilstein 5100's, poly bushings up front,
cop xj front swaybar, w/ disco's
full cage tied into rock rails, frame, seatbelt points, hitch.
4.10's, AT KO31's on backspaced rims,
8.8 rear w/ discs, wheelspacers and elocker.
242 t.c., motor stuff
this setup goes really well on and offroad,like i've said before, if you were to cross a 4wheeler with a corvette, this would be it. it i had a blower, it really would overdo the suspension. it's just too heavy for really quick accelleration, which is what i want. so a 50 or 60 shot will work for me, if i decide to do it, and do it right. if i blow the motor, i have an excuse to rebuild it w/ a stroker. at least, this is just what i'm thinking right now.
so what do you guys think of this? does that look like a pretty safe system?
1 step colder plugs and timing retard ,
fuel press. switch and new filter
window and WOT switches,
max. "safe" wet shot=70(with 24 lb injectors)

 

[MudDawg]

If you decide to go with the smurf squeezin's ...and it turns out you like it a lot...go to your local welding gas supplier and buy it in 125# cylinders and cross-fill to your small cylinders....you will save at least 50% compared to having the refills done at a performance outlet. It is easily done with a suitable lenght of -4 hose rated at least 1,500#, a bucket, ACCURATE scales...I use digital refrigeration scales...and a bag of ice...with close attention to weight accuracy. If you overfill the bottle and it gets hot...it will rupture the safety disc in the valve....not a good thing if the bottle is inside the cab with you....buy some spare discs for in case it happens.....if you are tempted to replace the safety plug with a solid one, you could end up killing hell out of yourself. I saw one go off on a car once...looked like downtown Baghdad.

 

[N20Jeep]

so what do you guys think of this? does that look like a pretty safe system?
1 step colder plugs and timing retard ,
fuel press. switch and new filter
window and WOT switches,
max. "safe" wet shot=70(with 24 lb injectors)

as long as you are cautious when wiring all the parts you should be good...
do u plan on mounting the WOT switch behind the pedal or next to the throttle body because if your mounting it next to the throttle body i know a sturdy way to mount it...


...also where do you plan to mount the nozzle....manifold, or right before the throttle body?

 

[N20Jeep]

. If you overfill the bottle and it gets hot...it will rupture the safety disc in the valve....not a good thing if the bottle is inside the cab with you....buy some spare discs for in case it happens.....if you are tempted to replace the safety plug with a solid one, you could end up killing hell out of yourself. I saw one go off on a car once...looked like downtown Baghdad.

two parts to make that less of an issue...a blow down tube which takes the place of you safty valve and can be plumbed to evacuate overpressurized nitrous from the cab..

and a nitrous pressure valve.(this is an old-school one but you get the idea)which mounts between the bottle and the nitrous feed line

just keep it around 900psi and you should be fine

 

[MudDawg]

Good tips N2O...to clearify the possibility of bottle rupture to those not "in the know"...nitrous is stored in liquid form, therefore you fill by weight...the rated weight for the bottle includes enough room for expansion of the liquid nitrous within reasonable ambient temperatures....even a properly filled bottle can hydraulic apart if it gets hot enough (and don't have a blow off).

The pressure in the bottle is directly related to the temperature of the bottle and it's contents..the pressure in the bottle can be plotted on a temperature/pressure chart if you measure the temperature of the bottle as long as additional "ingredients" aren't mixed with it. You can't determine the quantity of liquid in a bottle by pressure or temperature.

900 psi is the standard base pressure for most nitrous systems. That gives you repeatable flow rates.