N2O 50 shot?

[xuv-this]

I've been toying around this, looks like it can be done for fairly cheap. i know a few of you have done it, what kinda plugs would i need, would i need a step colder? could i safely run it with a jet chip? is there some trick to retard timing? would i need to retard timing? any other advice/ lessons learned?

 

[JohnX]

You could probably run that without any other changes...50 isn't a whole lot. But it would be safer to retard timing and re-plug. As for the jet chip...I haven't got a clue?

Trick for timing really depends on what years it is?

 

[5-90]

It's doable, but don't forget about supplemental fuel management. Running nitrous requires that additional fuel go in as well, so check that out.

Most kitbuilders tend to address the issue, so just make sure before you get started. I can help you a little if you plan on a DIY job - but I'd start looking at, say, Venom Performance (I think they do a 50 kit and a 100 kit...)

5-90

 

[xuv-this]

It's doable, but don't forget about supplemental fuel management. Running nitrous requires that additional fuel go in as well, so check that out.

Most kitbuilders tend to address the issue, so just make sure before you get started. I can help you a little if you plan on a DIY job - but I'd start looking at, say, Venom Performance (I think they do a 50 kit and a 100 kit...)

5-90

it's a 95' with an auto(im lazy), all the bolt ons. the venom is 700 bucks. so far this would cost me < $400. i was thinking running a 50 or 60 wet shot plumbed into the tb spacer. i would use a msd rev switch, and modify a bright-light switch from the floor of an old f-150 or something for activation. that way i could shift it manually and still be able to cut the juice betreen shifts.

 

[5-90]

You'll still need to address supplemental fuel delivery - it is not the N2O proper that makes the power, it is the oxygen content of the N2O allowing you to burn additional fuel that makes the extra power. At >1500*F, the N2O decomposes into nitrogen and oxygen, and the additional oxygen allows the additional fuel to be burned. If you don't supply the fuel, the chamber is hot enough that the oxygen will find something else to oxidise - the head gasket and aluminum pistons are standing first in line...

So, how are you handling this? Holley's NOSzle kits look promising (and reduce fabrication that would be required, and would allow you to run a "dry" system,) and the main thing there is to figure fuel delivery through the NOSzle as a function of pressure - and provide that pressure. Working with any "Y" nozzle will be similar - that's why there are so many orifices to choose from.

You'll also want a means for the NOS to be cut out if the supplemental fuel management quits on you - or you run into "burning parts syndrome" again. I'd also work out something to do the other way - if NOS system pressure drops below a certain point, BOTH systems cut out so you don't waste too much fuel at WOT.

I'd be interested in helping you out - so what's your basic concept and anticipated use? Condition and mileage of engine? Last smog numbers, if you are subject to the Air Police? Results of last compression and/or leakdown tests? Let's make sure everything is working well now before we try to make it work better...

5-90

 

[MudDawg]

Please don't beat me for asking a possibly stupid question....Does a '95 model have a start retard circuit that retards the ignition during engine cranking to reduce starter strain?

If it does....you can wire the nitrous solenoid power supply into the retard circuit using a diode to prevent solenoid operation during cranking. then you will have a few degrees of retard during nitrous operation. (you need it).

You definately need a loss of pressure switch in the fuel delivery dircuit to disable the system if you lose fuel pressure. You also need a WOT switch to the throttle to prevent system operation at part throttle. You also need an arming switch within easy reach to kill the system if the WOT switch hangs in the "made" position.

No...don't use it with a "chip"....typically they add timing...detonation time. If you want a wet system...i recommend the tried and proven N.O.S. system, preferably with independent nozzles for each cylinder. I don't like plate systems because of fuel distribution issues....MUCH MORE data available.

 

[5-90]

I don't know - but I'd not assume that it was in place. If I design a NOS setup, it's self-contained and fail-safe - as much as I can make it. I prefer not to depend on OEM circuits, especially on "Big 3" stuff. Besides, I never considered OEMR to be "fail-safe" - most aftermarket stuff is more reliable.

I also prefer a "dry" system for the issue you mention - distribution can be unreliable (except in some manifold setups.) Nitrous/fuel distribution with a "dry" port system is much more reliable, and this keeps you from dealing with cylinder balance issues and potential heavy oxidising problems.

I should look into that start retard circuit for my own information - I think I have an OBD FSM or two around somewhere, and I think I have at least one OBD-II FSM as well - so this might be worth looking into. Still, I'd use it as a "trigger" only, I don't trust the OEM programming, either. It's a lead-pipe cinch that they didn't think of nitrous when they programmed the ECU...

5-90

 

[xuv-this]

yeah, if there's a retard circuit in the factory ecu, that would be great!
the activation would be everything fused/relayed of course, into a push-button switch on the floor, and if something isn't right i would just let off it and the gas. i can wire a fuel press switch in. compression is all in the 120's, 99' intake, hesco adj. f.p.r., fms 24 lb injectors, ported head and cam, air/fuel ratio gauge etc. motor runs great. so if i had to deal with air police i would be selling a motor.
i like the auto, but i like 5 speeds. what i need is either a a 2.5 gear or run n2o in third. the motor has gobs of torque, i just want better acceleration in a gear that won't redline at 45 mph. so i would just use it in 2nd and third. i would like my jeep to be pretty quick, so i can be satisfied with it, call the project done, and start on the next one(more like 2 or 3)...
so could i make a dry system work? (it would be simpler)

 

[N20Jeep]

dry systems work great on a jeep with a 50-75 shot...just make sure you have a new filter... and make sure your fuel pump is up to par

 

[xuv-this]

ooohhh. there you are. so those 24lb'ers will be enough at WOT?

 

[SuperStreetJeep]

.....

 

[N20Jeep]

yea for a 30 to 75 shot they should do the job

 

[xuv-this]

thanks. do you retard the timing? what plugs do you reccomend?

 

[CSaddict]

Nitrous is like a really hot girl with an STD, you wanna hit it, but are afraid of the consequences!

 

[N20Jeep]

thanks. do you retard the timing? what plugs do you reccomend?

never really could figure out how to do that without msd(but with a 75 you can get away without timing changes....just go and find a part # for colder than stock burning plugs...but like i said before just make sure your fuel system is in good working condition...

 

[N20Jeep]

Nitrous is like a really hot girl with an STD, you wanna hit it, but are afraid of the consequences!

true...true

 

[John(XJ)Jeep]

Nitrous is like a really hot girl with an STD, you wanna hit it, but are afraid of the consequences!

true...true

Don't like NOS and will never use it. For me it cheapens it personally but your engine so go for it!

 

[xuv-this]

the only reason i want to go nitrous is that i could go forced induction or stroker, but frankly, i do not want the power there all the time, and this is so much cheaper. also, if anybody else does this, at least they will have the information available on how to do it RIGHT.
so i am thinking:
1 step colder plugs and timing retard ,
fuel press. switch and new filter
window and WOT switches,
max. "safe" dry shot=70(with 24 lb injectors)

so does this sound about right?
anybody know about the timing retard wire thing?

 

[ErikL]

wow youre getting alot more indepth with it then i would.... with such a small shot i wouldnt worry about the extra fuel or timing...... youre definatly doing itthe safe route, i think alot of it is over kill though...... try just plumbing it all in, and wiring up, the floor switch in, and make a 3/4 test shot..... if it starts poping and banging then you did too much.... if not (and it shouldnt) then youre good to go, try it at WOT

 

[5-90]

Whoa! Remember what I said earlier - you don't burn the nitrous oxide proper, the extra oxygen offered by the N2O allows you to burn more fuel! At the flash temperatures invovled in the cylinder, if you don't have any extra fuel the extra oxygen will find something else to pair up with.

With a "50" shot it will take a while, but you're still going to burn parts. You really want to make sure you've got supplemental fuel going into the system when you're "on the squeeze," or you've got trouble looking for a time to happen (the place is a given.)

Nitrous can made for mad power, but you have to plan what you're doing when you use it. Given a choice, I'd take a supercharger - blower systems are easier to design.

5-90

wow youre getting alot more indepth with it then i would.... with such a small shot i wouldnt worry about the extra fuel or timing...... youre definatly doing itthe safe route, i think alot of it is over kill though...... try just plumbing it all in, and wiring up, the floor switch in, and make a 3/4 test shot..... if it starts poping and banging then you did too much.... if not (and it shouldnt) then youre good to go, try it at WOT