Mystery front end clunk - no it's not TRE's.

on the trail?

i bought built axles. planned to drop them in. still tore everything down and am basically building from the ground up. if i spent half the time i spend wrenching actually on the trail... id be ok with that.
I have loads of down time lately (waiting for the roomie to finish his 6.0l swap) and I enjoy fabricating as much as wheeling. Ive also had horrendous luck with near everything I've purchased. I build whenever I have an excuse to. I think at this point, the only part of my rig I didn't build is the rc control arms.
 
I have loads of down time lately (waiting for the roomie to finish his 6.0l swap) and I enjoy fabricating as much as wheeling. Ive also had horrendous luck with near everything I've purchased. I build whenever I have an excuse to. I think at this point, the only part of my rig I didn't build is the rc control arms.

Sounds like you need a 3 link, then. :)
 
Sounds like you need a 3 link, then. :)

Probably. Prices up here in Canadia are insane, which occasionally works to my benefit. I've posted my axles up tentatively for sale in a few places, and it seems like I should have no problem getting $2500 or so for them. Then I've also got the rest of my front suspension (RC CA's, 6.5" coils, 1 ton steering, etc) that I can probably get another grand for. I can pretty much get 100% of my investment back here, because no one up here builds, and they all buy from rapist Canadian vendors. I was blown away by some of the offers I had for my polished turd.

The 3 link just hasn't been a consideration as the RC's seem to do the job fine and take some big hits like a champ, but ultimately, if they're the source of the clunk, and I can sell them for $500 and build a 3-link for the same money, it's a no brainer.

The big thing is that I just don't want to put anything else into the JEEP itself (ie: stuff that doesn't come off for the next build), cause the uni is tweaked and should probably be thrown out. I plated and braced too late, which meant having to add a lot more weight to keep the strength up.
 
Where's the fun in buying stuff?

what else are you going to do?

the only money you might save is on the housing, but you'll end up with a weaker and/or heavier setup.

you could go with spidertrax outers like you suggested, but they cost more and are heavier.
 
I've got no hard and fast PLAN yet. Just pondering.
I do like the spidertrax housings, but a stock 9" housing with a proper truss is just as strong, while only adding a few lbs, and can be shaved for the same clearance. The question I keep running into is how to get the 60 C's on the 9" tubes as they're different sizes. That's where the spidertrax housing starts to make sense, except that they recently nearly doubled their pricing (FML).
9" tubes are all 3.250 while the 60's are 3.125 (afaik). As soon as I start having to machine stuff, the cost goes up by about $2000/h (Shop rates are officially no where near that mark, but that's what they end up charging unless you stare at them the entire time, which they won't allow). I think I need to make friends with a machinist. Even my machinist at my shop (engineering company) figures turning down the tubes is a $2000 job. fuuuuuuu.
 
I've got no hard and fast PLAN yet. Just pondering.
I do like the spidertrax housings, but a stock 9" housing with a proper truss is just as strong,

That's just not true at all. A trussed factory 9" housing is still a tooth pick in comparison to an aftermarket bump formed housing.

A D60 is MUCH stronger than any factory 9" housing that I've seen.
 
Depends on your tube thickness. There are fabbed 9 in housings for a lot of applications. I don't need 1/2" tubes. The whole point of a 609 for me, is it can be built right for my application. Still considering a 60/60 or 60/14, but adding 800lbs to my jeep .... I don't wanna talk about it.
 
Sure, but again, I can't find it and I'm usually pretty good at finding this stuff. It drives me insane that everyone comes to me with their strange problems that no one else has been able to solve, and the answer is usually easy, but can't find my own issue!
I was gaining confidence that it was in fact, just my calipers, but just remembered it also occasionally does it when I turn, while stationary. I just can't ever catch it in the act. It SEEMS like a crack in the uni, so I painted everything with cheap flaky paint to see where the paint cracks, but no dice. :)
 
I had no way to recreate the noise in my RC arms either except by driving it. I ended up tightening the joints as tight as I could get them with their spanner wrench and the clunking went away.

Well ****. I'm an idiot.
After going though the entire front end again with a microscope and "fixing" 5 or 6 things that I think were within' tolerances for a ****ing rocket engine, I got pissed off, pulled the CA's again, and tightened the driver upper until I broke the spanner. Then I made a BETTER spanner and tightened it more. Then broke the new indestructible spanner on the lower driver, and built an indestructible x2 spanner and cranked down the other two.

...

Jeep rides like a ****ing luxury car.
Like, my XJ has always ridden unreasonably nice on street considering where it takes me off road, but with precisely zero suspension noise, it's almost eerie to drive.

Now, I had to crank them on VERY goddamn tight. I can't imagine there's anywhere for grease to go at this point, but I guess we'll see. I sorta suspect the ball cups are going to just tear themselves apart the first time I hit the trail, but maybe they won't. The cups look fine on visual inspection, but it's entirely possible they're just worn beyond tolerances on the inside of the sphere. It's a fairly hard poly, so it could just be that when I crank down the spanner, it's just trying to compress the outer part of the cup, and the inner just has a lot more room than it should. I'm tempted to just grab a rebuild kit from RC just so I know. I'm also tempted to fire-bomb RC's shop, but given what I've put the arms through, I suppose I should be surprised they're even still holding onto my Jeep. I want to complain about the design, but I KNOW damned well that a heim joint would've eaten itself in the first wheeling trip (conditions in the PNW seem to LOVE heims, but not in the way we want). I've never had a heim from any manufacturer stay tight (on my track bar) for more than a month or two.

So, problem solved, but now it's engineering time. I think a sealed, greaseable heim is the right answer, but through all this, despite finally getting my XJ to the pinnacle of Jeep (There's really nothing left to do to it as it goes wherever I point it), I'm actually starting a new build on top of a first gen 4 runner frame (which makes me feel like a bad person, but easily 75% of the work that went into my Jeep was to make the unibody hold up to my abuse).

Anyhow, so let that be a lesson to anyone with the same issue I guess? I dunno. **** you control arm joints. I have defeated thee.
 
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Yea, very few guys there know more about their products than I do (which says a lot about the issues I've had with their stuff), but I just can't bash them. Their support is too good. I'll bet if I call them up today and , without even asking for anything, tell them about the CA joints and they'd just ask for my shipping address. They never try to troubleshoot anything, they never question me. They just send parts, no questions. I've actually insisted on paying for replacements from them a few times because it just didn't seem right to be taking free parts in replacement for stuff that I CLEARLY ****ed up. And really, if the joints survived a few years, $60 is damned fair for the rebuild. I spend more than that on ball joints for my rig in a week!
 
I have had great experience with the Summit Machine rebuildable flex joints http://www.summitmachine.com/index.php?p=customParts&cp=fj
that came with my TnT Y-link setup. I have logged over 100k miles on these components and they are still quiet and clunk free. I do have to keep them lubed with marine grease to keep them from squeaking, but they definitely hold up to salty winters and desert wheeling.
 
They look nice, but the problem with that style here in the PNW is that there's silt and water everywhere. It just destroys everything. I'm looking for a fully sealed setup. I know there are a few out there, but most of them seem pretty cheesy. Just throw a big ugly heim condom over top. Gotta be something better.
 
They look nice, but the problem with that style here in the PNW is that there's silt and water everywhere. It just destroys everything. I'm looking for a fully sealed setup. I know there are a few out there, but most of them seem pretty cheesy. Just throw a big ugly heim condom over top. Gotta be something better.

Maybe give the metal cloak joints a shot? Of course I discover them only after already ordering johnny joints for some control arms I am building. They claim KOH rigs are beating on them with no failures and have good durability.

http://www.metalcloak.com/Duroflex-Builder-s-Joint-p/7353.htm

There was also a thread on pirate the other day about sealing heims or johnny joints with dirt bike inner tube then zip tying them tight around the bore holes of the joint.
 
Seals-it Corporation makes heim joint sealing washers. They are based on an AN hardened washer but have rubber laminated onto / around them to make a dust boot for a heim joint. Might be worth looking into for the PNW conditions. Pack grease around the joint for moisture protection, add rubber seals for dust / grime / salt & see how it holds up.
 
go with Johnny Joints from Currie.

nothing else will work as well.

they will not give a **** about silt or water. they need minimal greasing to stay lubricated, and they will stay tight and "wear free" longer than any heim or hard plastic race cartdridge joint.



I assemble all of mine with a decent coating of Lucas Red-n-Tacky grease and I can moved them around just fine, but even after 5 years under my jeep they still have enough preload to hold the control arm out perfectly horizontal with no support. and I grease them maybe once a year.

you would also probably benefit from getting the ones designed for a greasable bolt and using that.
 
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