- Location
- Virginia City, NV
It has been my understanding that the better you tune for speed, the better it will work in the rocks. Looks good man. Keep it up
My jeep build with photos over the last few years.
- Thread starter Evan03
- Start date
Thanks . She's coming along.
Im currently in the process of rounding up tools to do gears. I'm alittle scattered i know. After last night's test run I feel suspension why's shes close. Can be better but is already on par with other decent jeeps i acasionaly run with .
I feel 4.88s are my next step
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Im currently in the process of rounding up tools to do gears. I'm alittle scattered i know. After last night's test run I feel suspension why's shes close. Can be better but is already on par with other decent jeeps i acasionaly run with .
I feel 4.88s are my next step
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- Location
- In a strange land
Nice.
Are there more where those came from?
I could use another thousand or so of them.
Are there more where those came from?
I could use another thousand or so of them.
- Location
- In a strange land
I have managed to collect about 500 so far.
My goal is to do both sides of that irrigation ditch and make it look like something better than a bank of weeds.
That truck is a great workhorse, but the plastic interior is a POS. Whatever AMC did to make plastic dashes work in an XJ should have been a lesson to Chrysler. Obviously it wasn't learned. I would love to put the drivetrain in a '60s era International crew cab body, but those don't seem to be abundant nor cheap. And once I kick out The Varmints I shouldn't need a back seat anymore anyways. So I keep putting up with the interior, biding my time. Then maybe I can find an old PowerWagon and build that.
My goal is to do both sides of that irrigation ditch and make it look like something better than a bank of weeds.
That truck is a great workhorse, but the plastic interior is a POS. Whatever AMC did to make plastic dashes work in an XJ should have been a lesson to Chrysler. Obviously it wasn't learned. I would love to put the drivetrain in a '60s era International crew cab body, but those don't seem to be abundant nor cheap. And once I kick out The Varmints I shouldn't need a back seat anymore anyways. So I keep putting up with the interior, biding my time. Then maybe I can find an old PowerWagon and build that.
Mine is only cracked because I cracked it changing the heater core. Mines an 02 i think yours is 12v so maybe a few years older.
Those plastic covers that go over the top of the cracked dash actually don't look to horrible
Do they need to be block shaped?
Sometimes we run into rock
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Those plastic covers that go over the top of the cracked dash actually don't look to horrible
Do they need to be block shaped?
Sometimes we run into rock
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- Location
- In a strange land
Mine's a '95.
Same sort of damage on the RH fender from backing up a trailer too tight.
My dash was already cracked when I did the heater core. I paid the $300 or so for a new dash top. Had everything I needed for the job, and then the lower part of the dash cracked up in the process of doing the job. I didn't have time to source another lower half, so it had to go back together with a cracked lower. I have since picked up a complete dash assembly that is crack free, at least for now. Just need to find the time to disassemble and swap everything. That should fix a number of issues, if nothing breaks in the process.
And there are issues with the driver's side power window switch. And the passenger door interior panel won't stay adhered to the door. All matters of plastic having gotten old and brittle. Try to service one part and another breaks in the process. Glove box door fell out on me a few months back, just to show me what sort of quality it was made of. Simple enough to replace, but finding a decent one took several trips to the JY. It is going to be a problem for long term viability. Maybe aftermarket support will come along (these trucks are plenty popular given the drivetrain reliability), but I don't have much faith in aftermarket plastic.
Somehow I want to get back to a primarily metal interior. Either I need to swap the drivetrain into a vintage platform, or I hand build a metal interior, street rod style. Swapping in a dash might be my best path. I like the dash arrangement in the square body Chevy trucks. If I could find a good donor and then use the dash assembly that I have currently sitting in my shop to build a fixture around, then adapt the Chevy dash to fit that fixture I might be able to pull it off with a minimal amount of down time. I expect things like the AC and steering column could turn out to be great sources of frustration. And I have plenty of other things on my plate where I know I can make a difference, so this annoyance remains on the back burner.
And yes, that particular rock job requires sandstone blocks. I don't want it to be a patchwork of materials. I have another project for which I am accumulating smooth river rock in the roughly basketball size. I need a couple more pickup loads of those. They seem to show up on C/L each spring as someone decides to redo their yard. The sandstone blocks are harder to find.
Same sort of damage on the RH fender from backing up a trailer too tight.
My dash was already cracked when I did the heater core. I paid the $300 or so for a new dash top. Had everything I needed for the job, and then the lower part of the dash cracked up in the process of doing the job. I didn't have time to source another lower half, so it had to go back together with a cracked lower. I have since picked up a complete dash assembly that is crack free, at least for now. Just need to find the time to disassemble and swap everything. That should fix a number of issues, if nothing breaks in the process.
And there are issues with the driver's side power window switch. And the passenger door interior panel won't stay adhered to the door. All matters of plastic having gotten old and brittle. Try to service one part and another breaks in the process. Glove box door fell out on me a few months back, just to show me what sort of quality it was made of. Simple enough to replace, but finding a decent one took several trips to the JY. It is going to be a problem for long term viability. Maybe aftermarket support will come along (these trucks are plenty popular given the drivetrain reliability), but I don't have much faith in aftermarket plastic.
Somehow I want to get back to a primarily metal interior. Either I need to swap the drivetrain into a vintage platform, or I hand build a metal interior, street rod style. Swapping in a dash might be my best path. I like the dash arrangement in the square body Chevy trucks. If I could find a good donor and then use the dash assembly that I have currently sitting in my shop to build a fixture around, then adapt the Chevy dash to fit that fixture I might be able to pull it off with a minimal amount of down time. I expect things like the AC and steering column could turn out to be great sources of frustration. And I have plenty of other things on my plate where I know I can make a difference, so this annoyance remains on the back burner.
And yes, that particular rock job requires sandstone blocks. I don't want it to be a patchwork of materials. I have another project for which I am accumulating smooth river rock in the roughly basketball size. I need a couple more pickup loads of those. They seem to show up on C/L each spring as someone decides to redo their yard. The sandstone blocks are harder to find.
The blocks were from a containment wall between houses near floating feather and eagle rd that was pushed over over the years.
My truck is a auto. Today I got braided transmission lines to get rid of all metal lines.
You want my 76 ford to put the dodge stuff into. The dome light works when the doors open lol.
I've had my dodge for 12-15years definitely been a love hate relationship. I like it much better since going single wheels on the rear.
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My truck is a auto. Today I got braided transmission lines to get rid of all metal lines.
You want my 76 ford to put the dodge stuff into. The dome light works when the doors open lol.
I've had my dodge for 12-15years definitely been a love hate relationship. I like it much better since going single wheels on the rear.
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A project that keeps the projects going.
Been plagued by metal transmission cooler lines on my pickup.. been cutting sections out for a couple rears and clamping in rubber trans rated line.
Finally took the plunge and replacing it all.
I've been taking care of her since 150k hoping to see to 500 and beyond she's at 350 now.
At harbor freight i found this clamp. And man its amazing I dont have drill press . Going to do a line if holes around my bench border and get about 100 more clamps. There 9bucks.
Gears are due here tomorrow grizzly seems to be lost or on vacation. Was thinking about pulling jeep in and tearing 8.25 down. Mainly so I can make the backlash adjuster tool I havent found one to buy or even what its called. Figure ill trace it on some 1/2" just cut the hex out and weld something long on it.
And to stay off topic even more ive measured dana30 Cs and corporate 10bolt Cs and what im finding doesn't seem to jive with what I've read on forumns.
If I get bored today I may see if the 10bolt knuckles go on the 30. If they do its am easy swap to chevy brakes hubs and outer stub. For some the downfall would be going 8lug for me spacers on the 8.25 fixes it and h1 bead locks with 37s are semi cheap
This would require a steering track bar rework. I ran a steering arm on the machined 10bolt knuckle.
Maybe I better see how gears go
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Been plagued by metal transmission cooler lines on my pickup.. been cutting sections out for a couple rears and clamping in rubber trans rated line.
Finally took the plunge and replacing it all.
I've been taking care of her since 150k hoping to see to 500 and beyond she's at 350 now.
At harbor freight i found this clamp. And man its amazing I dont have drill press . Going to do a line if holes around my bench border and get about 100 more clamps. There 9bucks.
Gears are due here tomorrow grizzly seems to be lost or on vacation. Was thinking about pulling jeep in and tearing 8.25 down. Mainly so I can make the backlash adjuster tool I havent found one to buy or even what its called. Figure ill trace it on some 1/2" just cut the hex out and weld something long on it.
And to stay off topic even more ive measured dana30 Cs and corporate 10bolt Cs and what im finding doesn't seem to jive with what I've read on forumns.
If I get bored today I may see if the 10bolt knuckles go on the 30. If they do its am easy swap to chevy brakes hubs and outer stub. For some the downfall would be going 8lug for me spacers on the 8.25 fixes it and h1 bead locks with 37s are semi cheap
This would require a steering track bar rework. I ran a steering arm on the machined 10bolt knuckle.
Maybe I better see how gears go
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- Location
- In a strange land
I have heard, but cannot confirm (I read it on the innerweb, so it must be true) that the Dana 30 axle nuts themselves can be turned into the requisite tool for use on the 8.25" differential. IOW, if you weld a pair of D30 axle nuts to the ends of a couple pieces of DOM you will theoretically have the tool you are looking for. Rumor has it that it is worth making two, although you could theoretically get by with just one. Two makes it easier.
And yes, trans cooler lines are one more strike against slushboxes. Last year I replaced those on my Suburban, and this year on the '97 ZJ. Oil cooler lines are just like them. Just one more PITA.
And yes, trans cooler lines are one more strike against slushboxes. Last year I replaced those on my Suburban, and this year on the '97 ZJ. Oil cooler lines are just like them. Just one more PITA.
Sweeet i have a few dana 30s laying around. Will definitely try out the nuts. As im reading im thinking wtf nuts is he talking about that are that big.
4 ish years ago I put some money in my 47re, absolutely a game changer in pickup diesel world.
I haven't picked up a extra set of bearings yet. Starting feel the money crunch on this endeavor.
Thinking if I can get bearings off without cutting them im setting up with them. Assuming if I set up on the tight side new bearings will open that up alittle bit.
Klover creek falls near Glenn's ferry
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4 ish years ago I put some money in my 47re, absolutely a game changer in pickup diesel world.
I haven't picked up a extra set of bearings yet. Starting feel the money crunch on this endeavor.
Thinking if I can get bearings off without cutting them im setting up with them. Assuming if I set up on the tight side new bearings will open that up alittle bit.
Klover creek falls near Glenn's ferry
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- Location
- In a strange land
The axle nuts...36mm IIRC.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
Yeap, a vw gland nut also works (36mm).
jeep ride
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- West Virginia 25064
Beautiful country where you live thanks for sharing:Sweeet i have a few dana 30s laying around. Will definitely try out the nuts. As im reading im thinking wtf nuts is he talking about that are that big.
4 ish years ago I put some money in my 47re, absolutely a game changer in pickup diesel world.
I haven't picked up a extra set of bearings yet. Starting feel the money crunch on this endeavor.
Thinking if I can get bearings off without cutting them im setting up with them. Assuming if I set up on the tight side new bearings will open that up alittle bit.
Klover creek falls near Glenn's ferry
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4x4JeePmaNthINg
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
how was it to adjust the backlash? I might have to pull mine for inspection. Looks like you used the axle hub nuts, Did they fit without issue?
Nice job! your going to love the power return.
Nice job! your going to love the power return.