PAPXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Meridian, ID
I've been running at 6" lift without a SYE for a couple years now and finally got tired of the loss of clearance that I suffered due to my t-case drop.
I made a hybrid yoke out of a 242 rear output slip yoke and a 231 front output yoke. First I machined the splines out of the 231 yoke. Then I cut the shaft off the 242 yoke and pressed it into the 231 yoke and welded it. Then I made a 5/16" washer and welded that in place and cut a 3/8" hole in the center.
In order to seal my early model 242, I shortened the tailcone. I cut off the base flange and then cut the tip off, leaving the guide bearing complete with the seal. Then I TIG welded the flange and tip back together. Here you can see an original cone next to my shortened cone.
At this point you could probably just hack the output shaft and drill and tap it, but I decided to go a little further and set the shaft up in the lathe so I could be sure to get some nice centered threads. So I tore apart the case and pulled the shaft out.
This made easy work of that shaft.
I left just enough splines so that when I bolted the yoke on, it would be the correct distance from the shortened cone.
I picked up a front driveshaft at the junkyard for $12.50. It came off the exact same year and configuration as mine. 90, 4.0, AW4, 242. (I am going to be replacing the u-joints)
Everything went together perfect and so far it is holding up just fine...
I made a hybrid yoke out of a 242 rear output slip yoke and a 231 front output yoke. First I machined the splines out of the 231 yoke. Then I cut the shaft off the 242 yoke and pressed it into the 231 yoke and welded it. Then I made a 5/16" washer and welded that in place and cut a 3/8" hole in the center.
In order to seal my early model 242, I shortened the tailcone. I cut off the base flange and then cut the tip off, leaving the guide bearing complete with the seal. Then I TIG welded the flange and tip back together. Here you can see an original cone next to my shortened cone.
At this point you could probably just hack the output shaft and drill and tap it, but I decided to go a little further and set the shaft up in the lathe so I could be sure to get some nice centered threads. So I tore apart the case and pulled the shaft out.
This made easy work of that shaft.
I left just enough splines so that when I bolted the yoke on, it would be the correct distance from the shortened cone.
I picked up a front driveshaft at the junkyard for $12.50. It came off the exact same year and configuration as mine. 90, 4.0, AW4, 242. (I am going to be replacing the u-joints)
Everything went together perfect and so far it is holding up just fine...
Last edited: