my front 3 link...in progress

[gearwhine]

I have been posting a few build up pictures in my North Atlantic thread, but figured I'd post this and get some opinions and stuff.

angled inwards to get rid of mis alignment

This is about what I have now. I work really slowly, so don't expect any drastic changes each day. LCA's are completely set, just all tacked in. Lower links will be 1.5" .25 wall sleeved in 1.75" .120 wall. The frame mounts are welded to tubing onto the frame rail, and bolted to a gusseted tab welded to the x-member. I may need to notch the frame a bit to clear the LCA under compression when the track bar is in there.

The upper will be on the passenger side next to the starter, and going through the floor more than likely depending how long I it.

Threw it in triaged 3-link and panhard calculator (as a rear), and so far I like it. I am getting anywhere from 70-90% anti-dive with some UCA placements with 8" of seperation at the axle. I am not sure what I'll like, so I'll make multi-holed brackets for it. I have an 8* roll axis as of now. Did some calcs and that's about 2" of flex steer per side with 14.5" of droop and compression at each wheel, so it's somewhat of an extreme case.

This doesn't really concern me at all being a steering axle and all, and it really isn't much at all. I could drop it by a degree or so if I raise all the track bar mounts a little higher. LCA's are set, and I like them a lot there, so I'll deal with the slight angled axis rather than converge them inward. I don't believe there is anything else to lower the angle, is there?

Any thoughts or recommendations would be nice. Half my time is spent staring and thinking rather than working, so if I can skip that part...nice.

_nicko_

 

[RCP Phx]

Lookin good!Hope you rolled the pinion back down before setting the brackets and the angle of the perches!

 

[gearwhine]

Lookin good!Hope you rolled the pinion back down before setting the brackets and the angle of the perches!

yeah I took care in getting the pinion angle good with the right angle on the coil perches, but then I noticed that I don't even know what my ride height really is (this idiot forgot to measure that before taking it apart) So I may need to move them again anyway. That picture was after messing around with the axle in full compression.

so yeah...if anyone has 4.5" ZJ coils...get me a measurement from from the axle tube to the frame, or anything else I can use. It would be helpful.

 

[ChuckD]

Are you going to run 30 Knuckles? With it so stripped down maybe consider putting on CJ inners to get High steer knuckles.

 

[tealcherokee]

you need a longer driveshaft....looks good though

 

[gearwhine]

you need a longer driveshaft....looks good though

the wheelbase is not correct right now. Just cut the links today, and cut them long rather than making a mistake.

30 is staying unfortunately. I was searching for a 44-9 combo, but I'm moving soon and just don't have the time or money to set it all up. I stick with 33's though, so it's not a big problem. I plan to do steering similar to what porch puppy on the board has done. We'll see how that works.

 

[tealcherokee]

ill tell ya what, moving the front axle forward about 4" is AMAZING. you just have to remember to put the coils center on top of the axle tubes, but i loved it forward off road, didnt have any steering issues (i think at about 6" the steering box would have to get moved)

 

[gearwhine]

Why was it that amazing?

I can't see a real need for it for what I do. The departure angle will seem like absolute crap if I just move the front forward. Also, there aren't any huge climbs around here. Breakover angle is much more important to me than a little extra wheelbase and approach angle.

 

[tealcherokee]

i dunno, i talked to a few people that did it, so i tried it, and it just seemed to work, my jeep rolled up and over things that i had trouble with beforehand.

i do have to say it was all climbing advantages tho i didnt notice it on anything else

 

[XJ_ranger]

ill tell ya what, moving the front axle forward about 4" is AMAZING. you just have to remember to put the coils center on top of the axle tubes, but i loved it forward off road, didnt have any steering issues (i think at about 6" the steering box would have to get moved)

4"?

I moved mine forward 1" and that was about the max before I had to deal with HUGE trackbar, draglink, coil, and diffcover interferance issues...

 

[Matt S.]

4"?

I moved mine forward 1" and that was about the max before I had to deal with HUGE trackbar, draglink, coil, and diffcover interferance issues...

I know for a fact that moving that front axle much furthan than about 2" causes some SERIOUS issues. Pitman arm comes in contact with the tierod under full compression at certain angles. 4"s? Unless your full hydro, I would have a hard time seeing it work well. I could be wrong, but who knows.

 

[tealcherokee]

well i did move the trackbar back also on top of the tube, the draglink did come forward on an angle, and the pitman arm could hit the tierod, but full compression it was like 3" away, so i never had those issues

 

[egon]

so yeah...if anyone has 4.5" ZJ coils...get me a measurement from from the axle tube to the frame, or anything else I can use. It would be helpful.

Nick,

12.25" from top of tube (D30) to bottom of frame rail (in line with center of spring). 2 year old RE ZJ 4.5" springs. Hope that helps.

--Matt

 

[4ward]

Are your lowers at the axle mounted at the axle centerline?

 

[xj4life]

I know for a fact that moving that front axle much furthan than about 2" causes some SERIOUS issues. Pitman arm comes in contact with the tierod under full compression at certain angles. 4"s? Unless your full hydro, I would have a hard time seeing it work well. I could be wrong, but who knows.

i ran into this same issue this spring putting my springs on top of the axle instead of the factory location. so i ran my draglink from pitman to hs arm and the tie rod of the knukcles

 

[gearwhine]

Are your lowers at the axle mounted at the axle centerline?

They are mounted almost 1/2" below the centerline, and slightly peak from under the tube.

And thanks Egon, that does help.

 

[gearwhine]

took about a week and a half off from working on this thing because I'm lazy. Back at it, and have some progress from today.

Front links and mounts all tacked on

Frame mount for upper link. This will probabaly be braced back to the seat mount. Leaves a decent amount of foot room still.

Clearance upper link has from frame and starter

Did this for over the knuckle steering with heims. Still not too sure about it, but figured I'd give it a shot.

some other little things were done, but nothing notable.

 

[Israel]

Did this for over the knuckle steering with heims. Still not too sure about it, but figured I'd give it a shot.

Are you going to try and run a through bolt and sleeve from the high steer position to the knuckle location?

 

[gearwhine]

Are you going to try and run a through bolt and sleeve from the high steer position to the knuckle location?

It's not really high steer, just one through bolt with the two heim joints and misalignment spacers in between. Nothing above or below. Driver side knuckle will just be drilled for the heim joint, nothing welded to it.

 

[BrettM]

some may frown upon welding to the knuckle, but I like what you are doing there, especially since it's only adding double sheer and not taking the full steering load. I would consider buying a high-nickel rod or two and using an arc welder for the welding though, a small precaution to take, though a good pre and post heated MIG weld will likely be enough.