my 91 xj

[smokinu]

Found this local on cl guy was asking 2500. I drove over in person to check it out and it ran out of gas ideling in the driveway so he went and filled up some jerry cans so I could get it to the gas station around the corner. As I was pulling out of the driveway the battery craps out so he went and got another one from his friends house.... lol... so after the new batterry we got it running and his son took me for a spin around the block and everything seemed good and tight. I offered him 1800 because it dose need some work. And he told me 2k and I could have it. We signed the paper work and away I went..

Not sure on lift but it has drop brackets and the shocks are skyjacker and its an aal so im thinking 3.5 or 4.5. Have not fully climed under it to check for an sye. But it dose have a trans cooler. Among other small mods. It has weld wheels with bfg 31x10.15x15s I like the look for now. But I want to go iro or bds 4.5 long arm and 33 tires. But for now im going to dd it and save pennies and fix the small things. :wave: can post more pics tomorrow morning I need to get some sleep before my shifr starts at 7pm

If the pics are not working ill fix them tonight when I get to work.. im on my phone right now

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Since the flares are still intact. Stock measurement from hub center to bottom of flare are as follows. Front 17.5"/Rear 17" Take the current measurement and subtract from the corresponding number and you will get your approx lift height. Lookgs pretty good/straight on the outside. Interior just as clean?

 

[blondejoncherokee]

for 33s just run the drops with aftermarket control arms if it doesnt already have em. if its not at 4.5" right now, get some spacers and shackles, or get the 4.5" coils from seriousoffroad for like 80$ shipped. in the rear longer shackles. save your long arm money for sliders/bumpers/winch/etc.

you can run 33s as it sits right now if you cut the fenders and bumpstop it.

if you posted pics of coils, arms, leaves, shackles, i bet it might already be 4.5" since no one really runs drops with 4.5" or under. wel, its really uncommon.

 

[smokinu]

Since the flares are still intact. Stock measurement from hub center to bottom of flare are as follows. Front 17.5"/Rear 17" Take the current measurement and subtract from the corresponding number and you will get your approx lift height. Lookgs pretty good/straight on the outside. Interior just as clean?

The inside is pretty clean. couple rips in the front seats, and the backseat is rip free the rear spare is laid down. will get better inside pics when i get the key when i get home from work.

i forgot i locked the doors and went inside to catch some sleep my 12 hour shifts at work are killing my day time fun but 84 hours a week plus over time and time and a half is padding my pockets! (im a security guard)

for 33s just run the drops with aftermarket control arms if it doesnt already have em. if its not at 4.5" right now, get some spacers and shackles, or get the 4.5" coils from seriousoffroad for like 80$ shipped. in the rear longer shackles. save your long arm money for sliders/bumpers/winch/etc.

you can run 33s as it sits right now if you cut the fenders and bumpstop it.

if you posted pics of coils, arms, leaves, shackles, i bet it might already be 4.5" since no one really runs drops with 4.5" or under. wel, its really uncommon.

I grabbed these pics before i left. again i didnt climb under it because i was about to leave for work.
front springs (full coil lift no spacer) drop brackets for lca and the rear leaf/shackle. and a nice side profile shot.

i just realized my samsung s4 takes just as good pictures as my 600 dollar DSLR camera

front LCA's

Not the best picture of the coils can get a better one in the morning

Rear leaf/shackle again not the best pic.

interior

rear seat

 

[smokinu]

Can anyone confirm that this is a c8.25.. im like 99% sure it is. But I didnt know they came in the 91 xj. I figured it would be a d35 that I would have to swap for a c8.25 or an 8.8 later..

 

[blondejoncherokee]

could be 3.5". id measure like johnnie walker says. good clean rig to start with and ready to wheel as it sits it looks like. i like it. I miss it when my rig was clean and closer to stock . I want a super clean stocker to leave stocker to leave stock (well 3.5" and under with minimal mods , 33s and smaller, no serious gearing, lockers, body modifications, keep the suspension simple too)

 

[smokinu]

Im going to keep it how it is for a while meserments are as fallows front 21 inches even rear is 19.5 inches pretty sure it started out around a 4inch lift. And has settled a bit since install. I crawled under it and everything seems great. Extended break cables and pretty much eveything is done that I thought I was gojng to have to do. Although they tore the amp and sub out of it before I baught it all the wiring is still there. Ik going to try and fit an 8 inch sub in a low pro box under the rear seat and move the amp to under the passenger front seat. I want to keep the rear as clutter free as possable.

Went and explored a few acres of our back yard ajd made sure 4wd worked and everything was good. I want to ditch the rear sway bar asap and get some quick disco for the front. Then its off to find a bumper.. man 500 bucks for a winch bumper is expensive

 

[GordoSmasho]

Unless someone shaved off the bottom lip on the diff housing, that's a dana 35. Hard to see a good shot of the pumpkin.

 

[smokinu]

This is the image i looked at. and my rear diff cover looks like that of the c8.25
but how accurate is this picture.

 

[Jeep450r]

Looks like a shaved 8.25 to me. It has that rubber fill cap

 

[smokinu]

Looks like a shaved 8.25 to me. It has that rubber fill cap

Thats what i was thinking.
But now im like 50/50 on it. if its a 35.. its not a stock diff cover. if its a c8.25 i need to crack it open to see if its been re geared or if it has a locker/posi in it.

So far i have found that its around a 4inch lift. it has drop brackets in the front
seems like a rear AAL to make a bastard pack for lift, and it has a full SYE. so if i want to go bigger with lift i can with out much issue. :clap:

i had it out in the feild and was testing 4lo and 4hi. but i didnt even think to leave it in 2wd and riomp around in the dirt to see if the rear would lock up..

but after doing some work on it this morning when i got off work. the battery decided to die and it wont start again. (darn mexican had a bad battery in it when i bought it. ran down the street and got one from a friend that allowed me to start it and get it back to my house 5 mins away.) but im just going to run to the local napa here in hughson and replace the battery.

 

[GordoSmasho]

now that you bring up the fill plug that does look like a 8.25. looks like someone shaved the bottom though.

 

[smokinu]

I think this will answer any questions I had about it... its a d35c

 

[GordoSmasho]

And this

 

[smokinu]

Yup.. found out it had a bad fuel pump relay so once the motor was hot it wouldnt start. Replaced it. And it starts good. Im not sure what could be causing the check engine light comes on and it was off yesturday and now its back on. Not sure what could be causing it. I know a few of the vacume lines are cracking and I need to replace em. Could that be tripping a sensor?

 

[smokinu]

ok, did some investigating and computer leg work last night at work. found out the trick for the key on-off to pull the codes from the flashing on off check engine light.

i got codes 12 (easy fix)
and code 41. witch i have no clue how to fix or where to start. i know it has something to do with the alt feild switch but i have no clue where to start on that. i located the alt down just below the battery plate on the pass side.

Maybe with the PO ripped out the old battery and put the (used and junky battery he found) back in he could have possably pinched a wire?

PO claims the check engine light was never on with these codes i know one was from replacing the battery so its not bad. just have to pull the + and ground it out for 30 seconds or so to hard reset the computer. just not sure where to start on the alt since they are fairly expensive and from what i read are mostly not the main problem .


I also read someone doing a fix of mounting a 88xj alt mount and using a single cable alt and it bypassed the problem and stopped throwing the code?

 

[smokinu]

Got some work done on it this morning.
Ripped out the ALT and battery. Tested alt it was good. so i replaced the battery. all my error codes went away and everything is good now. also replaced some wiring. and im sure that helped..

finished around 2pm and got some sleep before i had to be back at work at 6:30pm..
oil change and smog in the morning and finish up the dmv paper work wednesday and we are all set. she is insured and good to go.

 

[smokinu]

I forgot i had this post ive done some work on my heep.
I pulled the luredo moldings off to find rust. It wasnt that bad and i sanded it all down and laid some rust primer down then flat blacked the jeep. Looks so much better. Anyways less typing more pictures.

I went to a local spot with my buddy and his tahoe

I then painted my front and rear bumpers. There was just way to much chrome and silver for my taste

I had to wait a few days to paint the sides due to work. But its finished now

Amd the poser flex shots

I was actually 3 wheeling in this pic. Im still running both sway bars. Because ive had to do a bunch of towing this winter for our ranch.

And mine and my buddies tahoe.

 

[smokinu]

i have not been able to update my thread in a while.

here is what i have done to the jeep so far after the last update.

i needed to rotate my tires so i went ahead and painted them while i was at it.
i think it looks good now.

it wasnt long before my jeep gave me more trouble. i was about 30 miles from home when the truck started idling very rough. and driving funny.

come to find out the head gasket let go, and i had 3 days to rebuild it so i had a car to get back and forth to school with. me and my father in law did it in the driveway after sourcing a junkyard head that was from a 95 that was in better shape then mine. took it to a shop after we pressure washed it and it was within stock spec. so we slapped all new seals in it and bolted her back up.. we ran into a few problems. couple missing bolts. and finished putting the truck back together on a tuesday at 10am, when i had to be at school at 12.

we cut it close but its been running great ever since (burns a bit of oil now) but its actually not bad.
this is the only pic of the old head as we were tearing it out. nothing but buttholes and elbows form then on out to rip out that head and get the new one in.

and that brings me up to just this weekend where i did an oil change and and diff fluid change. as well as finding out i had to replace both motor mounts.
they both looked like the pic below.

the drivers side gave me hell.. i could not get the bolt out with out removing my oil filter adapter. so out it came.

and after nearly a year of having a duct tape wing window on my passanger side. i found a cheap replacement on ebay 34 bucks shipped..

local PnP wanted 50 bucks and junk yards wanted about the same or more.

i also had to repair my junk seat frame that the PO boched

and i welded it all back up

i also finally ordered myself a front bumper.
i have not read a bunch of great reviews from this seller. but for the price 169. i dont want to worry to much about it early. if i dont here anything by wednesday ill send em an email if i dont get a response by friday ill open a paypal claim since i bought it through ebay/paypal.

 

[smokinu]

im having some over heating issues.

Ive replaced the t stat and housing.
radiator has been replaced with an oem unit, all hoses have been replaced with new.
water pump is brand new.

i have the 185 tstat

truck runs great as long as im moving. but when i stop at traffic light or im sitting and idling for to long at one spot no matter the temp outside. the truck starts climbing above 210.
a local here has made some hood vents that ill pick up soon. but short of replacing the rad with a 3 core all alum unit. what else can i do?