Morimoto projector headlight conversion

[CobraMarty]

They're still awfully small.

I see, so it is a size issue here with you...

 

[DanMan2k06]

That movable filament method is rubbish and even the flip down gate thingy isn't much better.

So, you're saying it's not very adequate, but using it anyway (the 'flap gate')?? On cheap projectors? I feel like that's asking for a stuck solenoid.

If you think bi-xenon is junk, I think you first need to research what the term really defines, and the come up with a different one for your "moveable bulb" description. And fwiw the "actuator and flap" you speak of are really a solenoid and shield. If you're gonna talk the talk........ Ugh I'll just stop.

Yes, size is an issue. It has a direct correlation on how much reflected light you can spead over an area. In this case that means how much light you can blast at a projector lense, and then onto the road. Look at the LS460 or TL projectors. HUGE projector, with huge output to match. The Micro DE, a tiny projector, with proportionately smaller output.

Don't get all pissed off and defensive, this is what tech is all about. Most of the guys that keep raggin on you have a decent (understatement) amount of knowledge in the subject and don't think what your tryin to accomplish is practical. Our own opinions. Feel free to prove everyone wrong, myself included.

 

[CobraMarty]

Again not looking for the biggest baddest best greatest headlight here. Of course can't compete with the purpose made and OEMs. In any case small or not, they are better that sealed beam, halogen, or even HID bulbs in a nonHID reflective housing.

 

[bpas328xi]

So, you're saying it's not very adequate, but using it anyway (the 'flap gate')?? On cheap projectors? I feel like that's asking for a stuck solenoid.

If you think bi-xenon is junk, I think you first need to research what the term really defines, and the come up with a different one for your "moveable bulb" description. And fwiw the "actuator and flap" you speak of are really a solenoid and shield. If you're gonna talk the talk........ Ugh I'll just stop.

Yes, size is an issue. It has a direct correlation on how much reflected light you can spead over an area. In this case that means how much light you can blast at a projector lense, and then onto the road. Look at the LS460 or TL projectors. HUGE projector, with huge output to match. The Micro DE, a tiny projector, with proportionately smaller output.

Don't get all pissed off and defensive, this is what tech is all about. Most of the guys that keep raggin on you have a decent (understatement) amount of knowledge in the subject and don't think what your tryin to accomplish is practical. Our own opinions. Feel free to prove everyone wrong, myself included.

Then how do the projectors in BMWs work? I have a sneaking suspicion that they use the "solenoid and shield" method and it has proved to be reliable thus far.

Whatever. I'll post comparison photos of the light output between my "small" projectors (2.5" or 63.5mm) and the projectors in my bimmer (70mm) [when I install the projectors in my Jeep].

 

[Talyn]

Why do you talk about what you don't know. You have no clue/idea how these work. Please stop your BS.

I'm not entirely sure you know what you are talking about.

These projectors do have the actuator and the flap which drops down to provide the highs.

But you said about the flap/solenoid:

That movable filament method is rubbish and even the flip down gate thingy isn't much better.

There you insinuate that you will run a separate high and low HID lamp. But then you back pedal and say you will be using them.

This is why you will find no, I repeat, NO oem manufacturer with a standalone hid highbeam. When you need it, it takes too long to warm up.

x2

If you are using two HID lamps that flip between low and high that will work fine. Only keep in mind your local laws regarding how many lights you can run at a time on the front. For example here and PA don't allow more than 4 lights on the front at once. So, if you run the quad HID projectors and then turn on the fogs you might draw some unwanted attention.

 

[bpas328xi]

There you insinuate that you will run a separate high and low HID lamp. But then you back pedal and say you will be using them.

I think you're getting confused by the dual projector picture that CobraMarty posted. The retrofit will NOT have two projectors in the housing, it will use one 2.5" projector. Whether we actually make a dual projector headlight or not remains to be said, but I doubt we actually will make them because I don't feel like cutting the headlight buckets on my Jeep just to prove a point.

If you are using two HID lamps that flip between low and high that will work fine. Only keep in mind your local laws regarding how many lights you can run at a time on the front. For example here and PA don't allow more than 4 lights on the front at once. So, if you run the quad HID projectors and then turn on the fogs you might draw some unwanted attention.

I was wondering about that because I'm going to be installing factory fog lights with bare HID bulbs in them which, in addition to my headlights and 100w Hellas, equals 6 lights. Guess I'll just have to keep the Hellas turned off when I'm on the street. Lol.

 

[DanMan2k06]

I know how bixenon's work. They use a solenoid to pull a shield down and allow more light to pass trough the projector. Very simple, very effective, and its how all mfg's do it. CobraMarty effectively downplayed this design, and then said he was going to run them. If you've never heard of a stuck solenoid, you need to research some more. It's very common in cheap knock-off projectors. Morimotos being one of the bigger culprits. It has do do with ish materials, ish quality control, and ultimately a frustrating end result when your lights are sealed up and your highbeams won't turn off.

 

[bpas328xi]

I know how bixenon's work. They use a solenoid to pull a shield down and allow more laugh to pass trough the projector. CobraMarty effectively downplayed this design, and then said he was going to run them. If you've never heard of stuck solenoid, you need to research some more. It's very common in cheap knock-off projectors.

Sorry about that. I wasn't questioning your knowledge. The projectors that I'm using aren't exactly what I would call cheap, but maybe I'm just a chea@$$.

As for CobraMarty downplaying the design using the shield, I have no clue why it was said like that. Maybe he'll chime in and clarify what he was referring to.

There seems to be some confusion with the term "bixenon"... This is probably due to the fact that the hid-retrofit-bulb-only-kits on ebay call their kits that move the bulb bixenon. [which, in retrospect, is probably an incorrect usage of bixenon to describe their product. lol.]

 

[Talyn]

I was wondering about that because I'm going to be installing factory fog lights with bare HID bulbs in them

Wouldn't recommend that. The factory fog light optics are poor as is. Hella Micro DE, while not intended for HID does a much better job as a fog w/ HID bulb.

which, in addition to my headlights and 100w Hellas, equals 6 lights. Guess I'll just have to keep the Hellas turned off when I'm on the street. Lol.

Which hellas? Don't know how that cops are there, but I bet they would pull you over if you are burning 6 on the front. Plus if its the Hellas I am thinking about they throw off a lot of glare.

 

[urban yan]

Again not looking for the biggest baddest best greatest headlight here. Of course can't compete with the purpose made and OEMs. In any case small or not, they are better that sealed beam, halogen, or even HID bulbs in a nonHID reflective housing.

I don't have the best bi-xenons, but they function PROPERLY. They’re not hokey or completely impractical. It just seems you're trying to spend the same, if not more, on your set-up than a good bi-xenon retro for results that are considerably worst. It defies logic. If you're going through all the effort than you might as well do things right.

 

[Milford Cubicle II]

I didn't know warm up time on a quality HID ballast and bulb was an issue. That's just based on the fact that I've used cheap HID kits where the bulb does take several seconds to warm up, but the OEM HID's in my DD are instantaneous - no warm up time involved. Not that I can see anyways :dunno:

Keep in mind, even halogens have a "warm up" time. So what's the big deal with dedicated HID high beams?

 

[urban yan]

Ughh!! Seriously??
Have you ever seen HID bulbs ignite and color-shift when you start them?

 

[bpas328xi]

Wouldn't recommend that. The factory fog light optics are poor as is. Hella Micro DE, while not intended for HID does a much better job as a fog w/ HID bulb. Which hellas? Don't know how that cops are there, but I bet they would pull you over if you are burning 6 on the front. Plus if its the Hellas I am thinking about they throw off a lot of glare.

In all honesty, I have no clue what model the Hellas are [installed by previous owner.] I believe they are Hella 500s, but I could be wrong. I measured them and iirc they were 7" in diameter and they have a pencil beam [spot]. Not sure if it helps, but here's a pic.

As for the hid bulb in factory foglights, I did the same thing on my BMW [housing is in no way optimized for hid bulbs] and they do their job as foglights quite well. I have a feeling that the Jeep foglight housings will work slightly better due to the difference in how the bulb is held, vertical for Jeep and horizontal for BMW and there is a reflector behind the bulb in the Jeep housing which might beneficial [just spitballing here].

 

[Talyn]

I didn't know warm up time on a quality HID ballast and bulb was an issue. That's just based on the fact that I've used cheap HID kits where the bulb does take several seconds to warm up, but the OEM HID's in my DD are instantaneous - no warm up time involved. Not that I can see anyways :dunno:

Even good OEM HIDs have a warm up time. Whether you notice it or not i don't know.

Keep in mind, even halogens have a "warm up" time. So what's the big deal with dedicated HID high beams?

Nothing like a HID warm up. As stated there is a reason why the OEMs have a flap or high halogen instead of two HID lamps.

 

[bpas328xi]

I didn't know warm up time on a quality HID ballast and bulb was an issue. That's just based on the fact that I've used cheap HID kits where the bulb does take several seconds to warm up, but the OEM HID's in my DD are instantaneous - no warm up time involved. Not that I can see anyways :dunno:

Keep in mind, even halogens have a "warm up" time. So what's the big deal with dedicated HID high beams?

I speak from experience when I say that HID bulbs DO have a warm-up period even when they're in a OEM installation.

Even good OEM HIDs have a warm up time. Whether you notice it or not i don't know.
Nothing like a HID warm up. As stated there is a reason why the OEMs have a flap or high halogen instead of two HID lamps.

X2

 

[Talyn]

I have a feeling that the Jeep foglight housings will work slightly better due to the difference in how the bulb is held, vertical for Jeep and horizontal for BMW and there is a reflector behind the bulb in the Jeep housing which might beneficial [just spitballing here].

Lol.. the stock fogs are more like indicators than lights. Good rock catchers too with weak glass on top of it. Nothing worth putting money in.

 

[bpas328xi]

I don't have the best bi-xenons, but they function PROPERLY. They’re not hokey or completely impractical.

While your projectors use quality components, the China stuff isn't bad as people think as long as you know how to find the good stuff.

Btw Yan, I'm pretty sure the projectors that you have would not work for me since I have a bullbar and bars covering the lights [see pics]. That and $900 is WAY too pricy for me. I'd sooner buy the Truck-lite LED housing retrofit.

It just seems you're trying to spend the same, if not more, on your set-up than a good bi-xenon retro for results that are considerably worst. It defies logic. If you're going through all the effort than you might as well do things right.

Nope. Still nowhere near the cost of other HID projector retrofits.

And I am doing things right in a very logical manner. [which is odd since I'm stark raving mad. lol.]

 

[bpas328xi]

Lol.. the stock fogs are more like indicators than lights.

With stock 55w bulbs? If so, then I wholeheartedly agree.

Good rock catchers too with weak glass on top of it. Nothing worth putting money in.

That... Is a good point. I'm used to dealing with housings that have polycarbonate lenses... Glass is rather.. bothersome. I might have to look into some sort of spray on coating that will strengthen the glass lenses and help protect the HID bulbs [maybe something similar to how laminated windshields work but without second piece of glass. Idk just thinking out loud].

 

[DanMan2k06]

In reference to the warm up time. If the car has been running, or the lights on, the gasses inside the bulb are "warmed up", and require much less time to ignite if you flash them on and off. So if you run your lights for 10 minutes, turn them off, and then flip the lights on, you'll barely see any warm-up. If you let it sit for 12 hours and start it in the morning cold, you're looking at a solid 30 seconds until they're up to full color and intensity. Like said earlier, it just doesn't make sense to use this as a designated highbeam or flash-to-pass.

On the foglight note. I would definitely ditch the stock fogs. The lenses are as fragile as - well - glass. The optics are also pretty poor as well. Glass blurs optical quality much worse than a polycarbonate lense of the same design. I get the idea you're trying to keep everything as cheap as possible, so in this area I would leave them as is, or find a better set worth upgrading/modifying. You could use a laminate on the glass, but it only further distorts the output, and again you still have garbage optics.

 

[bpas328xi]

On the foglight note. I would definitely ditch the stock fogs. The lenses are as fragile as - well - glass. The optics are also pretty poor as well. Glass blurs optical quality much worse than a polycarbonate lense of the same design. I get the idea you're trying to keep everything as cheap as possible, so in this area I would leave them as is, or find a better set worth upgrading/modifying. You could use a laminate on the glass, but it only further distorts the output, and again you still have garbage optics.

My Jeep actually didn't come with fogs, I wanted to add them [which is why I bought OEM ones].

I'll throw them in along with the HID bulbs and see how well they hold up [might hit them with a light coat of VHT niteshade to strengthen them and make them blend into the bumper]. If the glass lenses shatter, I'll look for a set with polycarbonate lenses or think about what my other options are.