The unit itself has no chance of hurting the transmission, but because you have manual control you certainly can hurt the transmission by not driving properly, just as you can with a manual transmission. Do not drive 15mph in 4th gear, or 70mph in 1st gear, etc.
There's a stock rev-limiter, correct? If the kit doesn't effect that, you still can't over-rev the engine. I f that's true, this is probably pretty moron-proof. Awesome stuff, I hope to be a customer as soon as I get a little more than lint in my pocket....
There's a stock rev-limiter, correct? If the kit doesn't effect that, you still can't over-rev the engine. I f that's true, this is probably pretty moron-proof. Awesome stuff, I hope to be a customer as soon as I get a little more than lint in my pocket....
There's no rev limiter on the old Renix system but any newer "HO" engine has one. You can still overrev the engine though, for example going to first at 85 with the TC locked. I run a similar setup and havn't broken anything yet. but you can damage things, and you can kill the engine.
I've been running it a while now, and I'm still a fan of my shifter. No further problems with the knob, now that I'm paying attention more. Girls ask me what it's for, and that's good. I may still change out the knob, because it's easy, but simply having a shifter is pretty unique. I swapped on my little street tires, so no mileage reports for a while. But 4.88s, 32s, and control over my tranny sure is fun!
F1 paddles? It can and has been done. I am currently button shifting my race car from the steering wheel. BrettM PM me when you get a chance I would like to call you and talk.
Friday night I was prompted to research, and I found out something curious about 'my' manual AW4 switchery.
It upshifts from 1 to 2... way up into the "4.0 sounds Unhappy" zone (no tach, but trust me) Somewhere around 65 indicated on the factory speedo gear. Unless LURF gets some rolling rockery, don't try that at home.
Starting off in second, it spools up off the 85mph speedo with "plenty" of pedal left.
Therein the traction control... 2nd gear only for "pit road speeds"
Brett, I've got a shifter that I don't believe has the normal auto feature on it. Only full shift. I got it with the 4.0 and aw4 i bought and the guy never hooked it up.
Can I (or you) convert this to have a full auto mode like the newer ones?
Brett, I've got a shifter that I don't believe has the normal auto feature on it. Only full shift. I got it with the 4.0 and aw4 i bought and the guy never hooked it up.
Can I (or you) convert this to have a full auto mode like the newer ones?
shoot me an email, I'm sure we can work something out: [email protected] You bought just a 4.0 and AW4 and you're going to put it in an XJ that already has an AW4?
Woody, it may not be the best idea, but if I remember, I'll find out and let you know. I bet it holds 1st. 4.88s and super-worn 32s, I don't think 4000RPM in 1st will have me going really fast.
And what does the dual switch setup do? Full control of shifting between 1st and 2nd, and TC control? Lame. Give me 1st-2nd-3rd-4th and TC control over that, any day.
someone posted a comment about a joystick style shifter....that'd be awesome, like a 5 position shifter, 5th being auto. i'm curious about the tc lockup button, what does it do (i know nothing about trannys except how to identify them)? what happens if you lock it too soon or leave it unlocked?
someone posted a comment about a joystick style shifter....that'd be awesome, like a 5 position shifter, 5th being auto. i'm curious about the tc lockup button, what does it do (i know nothing about trannys except how to identify them)? what happens if you lock it too soon or leave it unlocked?
The torque convertor lockup eliminates the slip in the torque convertor allowing the RPMs drop and the transmission run cooler and more efficiently. In factory form the computer only locks it up in 3rd or 4th gear and fairly light throttle pressure (about half way?). I also like to use it in 2nd gear for an effective 2.5 gear and occasionally offroad for additional compression braking. In theory it is not good for the torque convertor to lock it under real heavy throttle or heavy compression braking, but in practicality it doesn't seem to be much of an issue, perhaps your AW4 will only last 200k rather than 300k
lol, that's cool. i'm guessing locked up, would it effect acceleration? like being stuck in mud? i'm from va so mud my playground, not sand or rocks like everyone else on naxja (kinda sucks, really messy but fun). also, is it a good idea to rebuild a aw4 or just get a 700-r4 and convert it? i hear a lot of good things about the aw4 and the same about the 700-r4, but other than that i dont know anything. can your switch work on the 700-r4 or is it aw4 specific?
The switch is AW4 specific. Actually there are a few variations like the A340 used in Toyotas and other makes, but no, it will not work with a 700r4.
I would NEVER consider swapping a 700r4 behind a 4.0. The AW4 is far more reliable, a factory option and easy replacement and the 700r4 swap is very expensive. I would also not rebuild an AW4, they are far too cheap, common and reliable, it's cheaper and easier to just get a low-mileage replacement.
I think the AW4 is every bit as stout as a 700R4 (behind a 4.xL Jeep I-6.) I'd rebuild it (or find another similar one that works to swap-in) before setting off to convert a 700 to mate up.
