John D Super Slo-Mo Rebuild

Looks good John, keep up the good work. Shouldn't bumpsteer, I know the bends are goofy, but it can look like question mark, so long as the point a to point b is in the right spot. Did you build your truss? I spoke with branik yesterday, really nice guys. I think I'm.gonna do the same thing.
 
Looks good John, keep up the good work. Shouldn't bumpsteer, I know the bends are goofy, but it can look like question mark, so long as the point a to point b is in the right spot. Did you build your truss? I spoke with branik yesterday, really nice guys. I think I'm.gonna do the same thing.

Thanks, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I made the truss out of 3x4x3/16 then added a little plate where the upper control arms are welded to it. On the trail I was only running the upper on the D-side and had good performance, but it puts a lot of stress on the truss where it's not tied in very well. The BTF cover has an extended tab on top with four bolt holes. Now that I know where the track bar is I can work on the tie-in for the cover.

Page 9 in here shows a bunch of pics of the truss.
 
I like your homebrew truss. It seems to be tough in all the right places. I bought mine from t&t for a 78 d60, and narrowed it along with the axle. It actually worked out perfect, lot of chopping and fitting but it ended up being a bit of an inner c support as well. Plus it was helpful in determining where to chop the axle. I'll see if I can dig up some pictures.

Im gonna read the rest of your thread. I have some more notes to compare if you don't mind, but I want to make sure you didn't cover it already.
 
Did you build your rear caliper skid? I did my rear conversion was with a universal d52 caliper bracket and Ford front truck rotors, and my calipers hang pretty low too. I used the ubolt eliminators and they really sucked up a bunch of real estate.
 
how did you go about bending the trackbar? i know in text you said it was a bitch to do... i may need to do the same, if i ever get into the garage.

its too damn cold... thinking i may fire up the salamander this weekend. got lots of cutting to do still.
 
Did you build your rear caliper skid? I did my rear conversion was with a universal d52 caliper bracket and Ford front truck rotors, and my calipers hang pretty low too. I used the ubolt eliminators and they really sucked up a bunch of real estate.

I did not do the caliper skid plate yet, but I am still thinking I will. The rear is not finished yet. I need to weld the tubes to the diff, continue with "shaving" and build bump stop pads.


how did you go about bending the trackbar? i know in text you said it was a bitch to do... i may need to do the same, if i ever get into the garage.

I have a really sweet Model 105 bender I won from the NAXJA membership drive a couple years ago :greensmok
 
My calipers definitely hang lower,about where yours were in the first picture. I need to reinforce the mount and build a skid.
 
UPS will ship my axle shaft for $16. I'm gonna send it off to branik. I'll let you know how it goes if your interested.

We're your rollers on CL? I saw them, suggested them to a friend of mine.

Yes, I had them on Grand Rapids CL. I bought a custom length 4340 from Branik. That reminds me, I need to give them a shout. I haven't heard anything and they haven't charged me either.
 
Finally got a day out in the barn today, so I made the best of it. I'm limited to about 2 days a month right now due to work and other stuff :(

It took about 2.5 weeks to receive the axle from Branik - $242 to my door seems fair.



Did one final check for clearances and everything looks good. Tight, but good. Finish welded and painted all the links, and steering. Finished up the axle side trackbar mount and tied it into the upper mount as well as bumpstop extensions on the coil buckets. The only thing left on the front axle is to tie the driver's side upper into the diff cover and the steering ram mount/skid. Getting closer, I might actually drive it this year...



1mm clearance is enough, lol.



 
Hey John, quick question. What did you have to do with the front drive shaft after putting that 60 up front. It appears that mine will have to be shortened. Just curious if you ran into the same thing, and priced out the aftermarket vs cut/balance.
 
Hey John, quick question. What did you have to do with the front drive shaft after putting that 60 up front. It appears that mine will have to be shortened. Just curious if you ran into the same thing, and priced out the aftermarket vs cut/balance.

Honestly, I haven't gotten to it yet. The rear is somehow the correct length so bought a 1310/1350 conversion joint. I'm hopeful I can make the front work. If it's long I would do another conversion joint and cut/balance what I have. This is my scheduled week home, but I don't think if I will get to the garage. My youngest has to stay in the hospital for a couple nights so I will be there. Might be the middle or end of March before I get back to it :(
 
Honestly, I haven't gotten to it yet. The rear is somehow the correct length so bought a 1310/1350 conversion joint. I'm hopeful I can make the front work. If it's long I would do another conversion joint and cut/balance what I have. This is my scheduled week home, but I don't think if I will get to the garage. My youngest has to stay in the hospital for a couple nights so I will be there. Might be the middle or end of March before I get back to it :(

My rear turned out to be spot in as well. Hope the family is all good John

I'm going to go cut and balance route I think, but I will probably fork it over and get the right yoke. Only so I don't have to carry two different ones.
 
My rear turned out to be spot in as well. Hope the family is all good John

I'm going to go cut and balance route I think, but I will probably fork it over and get the right yoke. Only so I don't have to carry two different ones.

Thanks. Eventually I will change the yokes on the Atlas to run 1350 shafts and carry these smaller ones as spares.
 
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