So I have a 98, aw4, 4.0 that I just got and it dies in reverse. The guy I bought it off of told me that the NSS went out on him a few years. So he decided to buy pass it. How he did that was that he 1st cut the wires to the ignition switch and installed 3 toggle switches (flip all three on and it’s like the key is on). 2nd under the hood he ran 2 wires to the starter and connected them to an aftermarket relay he installed on the fire wall. 3rd he installed a push button starter switch and ran a wire to the relay. So now the only function the key has is to unlock steering wheel. A lot of work for a $150 part if you ask me. So I guess it worked fine for him for a couple years then he said the transmission went bad. I asked him how. He said it dies anytime you put it reverse and then you never know when it will start again. Also sometimes it dies going down the road and, again, you don't know when it will start again. He also told me that the motor ran fine, till it quit working. So I bought it for $500. I then found a 99 with a blown motor and I bought a lot of parts off it (ECU, TCU, TPS, mass airflow censor, CPS, all the relays, complete transmission w/converter and transfer case) I put all the electronic parts on the 98, except I broke the NSS, from the 99, trying to get it off so I took the one off the 98 off and cleaned it and put it back on. I still haven’t installed the transmission, converter, & transfer case. The jeep still died when put in R and the motor idled ruff. So after a radiator flush (because the coolant looked like muddy sandy water), an engine flush and tune up motor runs great now. It drives down the road and shifts great but it still died in reverse. I noticed that all the gauges turn off when it shifted to R. so I tried unplugging TCU, still the same. Next I took out the #10 fuse and it shifts in R with no problem, but it threw a lot of codes. So I put the fuse back in and unplugged the NSS harness and the transmission works just fine in all gears but it still shows codes. The dash gauges work fine either way also. I know that the push button starter is ran off a ground wire, because when I tried to check the wire coming through the dash to the relay with my test light (hooked to the ground on the battery) it turned over the motor. What I’m thinking is his NSS was just dirty from the beginning and after a while it started to work again and that’s what s killing the motor, somehow his way of bypassing it is ran off the ground and the factory is positive and when they both work at the same time it grounding out. So my plan is to put all the wiring back to stock, if I can, and seeing if that will fix it. If it doesn't I’m guessing I need a new NSS, oh and I cleaned all the ground wires I could find. So what do you think? If the wiring wasn't all rigged what does pulling fuse 10 or unhooking the NSS plug tell you?