Is this UCA Bushing toast?

[downinthewell]

Was pressing in this UCA bushing last night, and i think the plate on the ball joint press wasn't complete aligned and it looks like i may have over pressed (if that is possible)? The rubber looks a bit herniated here - compared to the brand new, and the old passenger side (pictured), the rubber appears to be too far extended. Bushing still needs another 1/8 inch or so i think to be fully pressed - but didn't want to complete the job if this one has to come out. Thoughts on the way this bushing appears at the moment? is the sleeve compressed which forced the rubber out? This was a hell job getting the old one out, and not looking forward to pulling this one, but if it's unsafe, i'd rather spend the next day trying to press/chisel/drill this new bushing out and replace it than try and roll on one that is compromised. Just thought i'd get some perspective from any folks who have done this (first time here)

Upper Control Arm - XJ 2000

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[RCP Phx]

It does look a little distressed, but it also isn't seated all the way.

 

[downinthewell]

yeah - i quit pressing due to exhaustion last night, but didn't want to keep pressing if i'd be having to pull it out anyway. I guess my question really is: if i can properly seat it - and it's still bulging - is it a safety issue, and will it likely cause an issue in a week or six - or is this more like a five year concern replacment necessary sooner than i'd like - but not catastrophic?

 

[RCP Phx]

It could be a problem as the ca is going to rub on th shell if it doesn't return to its original state.

 

[downinthewell]

Yeah i have the (new) replacement coming on wednesday, wanted to get some eyes on it before making a decision but i think it's going to have to come out and i'm going to have to pay closer attention to how much room i have on that back end when pushing it in so i don't pop the rubber again - and can get it properly seated. my knuckles are cussin me out for this one

 

[JonnyCat63]

Are you trying to press that bushing in dry?
if so, put some anti-seize on both surfaces. It will press in much easier. If you don't have that, some grease will work also.

 

[RCP Phx]

Clean the housing also with some sandpaper.

 

[JonnyCat63]

Clean the housing also with some sandpaper.

That's a good idea, as well. The old bushing looked a little crusty. I can imagine the axle mount is, too.

 

[downinthewell]

Ok yes i was attempting to press dry - wasn't positive if i could grease/anti-seize the can before inserting - but i've definitely seen some folks on Youtube doing it in this case. Had them in the freezer over night - so thought that would help a bit - but then this. I'm gonna try and push this one out, do a bit more clean up on the axle mount (i ran through it with steel wool but might get in there a little better with some sand paper to spiff things up a bit cleaner ) and try my luck at pressing a new one. Gonna practice pressing out on the old arm to see if i can find a more efficient system than the hammer

Thank you for all the feedback - i knew it may be an issue - but wanted to get more eyes on it (was definitely hoping there would be an overwhelming response of "yeah it's good, run it!" to save myself the nightmare of pressing this one out again - but i don't want to do this again any time soon)

 

[lawsoncl]

I would avoid petroleum grease on rubber, as it can degrade it.

 

[waxer]

I would also avoid using too much sandpaper to clean up the inside of the bushing area. You take too much meat off of that, then you'll have issues with your bushing not staying in place. A little clean up is ok, but don't go buck wild trying to make it perfectly smooth in there.

 

[downinthewell]

Got it in - had to do a lil bangin, a little pressin, a lil makeshift pressin (threaded rod of an appropriate length with some appropriately stacked washers and some pieces from the press), looks ok. Got the rest pieced together pretty well - passenger side wheel has a -1 degree caster which is not ideal, looking on ways to potentially rectify that - but it's driving ok. Trying to work out why a brand new track bar bolt (with flag nut) isn't staying tight. gonna drive it around a bit and re-torque everything to see if that helps keep it snug. Thanks for all the help here, the boards have been very helpful throughout all the replacements i've done on this thing.

 

[RCP Phx]

Got the rest pieced together pretty well - passenger side wheel has a -1 degree caster which is not ideal, looking on ways to potentially rectify that - but it's driving ok. Trying to work out why a brand new track bar bolt (with flag nut) isn't staying tight. gonna drive it around a bit and re-torque everything to see if that helps keep it snug.

You didn't say anything about your components but I that's pretty hard to believe those numbers. What trackbar are you using?

 

[downinthewell]

You didn't say anything about your components but I that's pretty hard to believe those numbers. What trackbar are you using?

RCP Phx - the -1 caster is hard to believe? i don't know if/why the shop would make that up if it weren't the case - but i haven't had the time to get down and understand how to measure it out myself. I have driven it 1000 mi since putting it all back together and besides the nut on sway bar link working it's way loose ever few hundred miles, i haven't noticed a significant issue with it (perhaps -1 should be more noticeable?). Will be putting some loctite on the sway bar links before hitting the road back.

i have mostly Dorman parts: Tie Rods, Track Bar, Sway Bar assembly (Track Bar DORMAN D1235XL)
Did Moog control arms, and Suspensia Ball Joints - all from Rock Auto.

​

 

[RCP Phx]

RCP Phx - the -1 caster is hard to believe? i don't know if/why the shop would make that up if it weren't the case - but i haven't had the time to get down and understand how to measure it out myself. I have driven it 1000 mi since putting it all back together and besides the nut on sway bar link working it's way loose ever few hundred miles, i haven't noticed a significant issue with it (perhaps -1 should be more noticeable?). Will be putting some loctite on the sway bar links before hitting the road back.

i have mostly Dorman parts: Tie Rods, Track Bar, Sway Bar assembly (Track Bar DORMAN D1235XL)
Did Moog control arms, and Suspensia Ball Joints - all from Rock Auto.

​

Because the factory specs is +5.25* to +8.5* !

 

[Bent]

I would avoid petroleum grease on rubber, as it can degrade it.

Red rubber grease.

 

[lawsoncl]

Because the factory specs is +5.25* to +8.5* !

I'm guessing that -1* spec was camber, not caster.