Is my locker breaking my axles?

[teamwestoutdoors]

Hello again gang, I got out on the trail yesterday to give a test ride to some of the fixes I have been working on and encountered a new problem. I broke my driver's side axle on a tight right turn. I have a 90 XJ Limited 4.0, AW4, 6.5” lift on 33’s, D30, D35, both font and rear have lock-rite lockers. That same side has been making knocking noises since i bought it, I just assumed the cracking/ knocking, which only happens in 4WD, was just the standard XJ thing. Do you think my Locker is the cause of this breakage?

Photo Link: http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/...est Outdoors/699936982_photobucket_13015_.jpg

 

[foxwar71]

That same side has been making knocking noises since i bought it, I just assumed the cracking/ knocking, which only happens in 4WD, was just the standard XJ thing.

As my Dad says, "To assume is to make an ass of yourself"




Sounds like you shoulda look at things beforehand, the U-joint was probably already junk.

 

[boomhauer]

As my Dad says, "To assume is to make an ass of yourself"

Sounds like you shoulda look at things beforehand, the U-joint was probably already junk.

Looks like the u-joint is fine, the outer shaft ear looks toast though...grab some 95+shafts or spring for alloys.

I'd be more concerned with the 35. -B

 

[teamwestoutdoors]

As my Dad says, "To assume is to make an ass of yourself"




Sounds like you shoulda look at things beforehand, the U-joint was probably already junk.

I looked into it and replaced both upper and lower ball joints as they where screwed and replaced the wheel bearings, they where in a bad way as well. The sounds stopped for the most part until just before the axle snapped. I think your both right, the U-joint and the ear both gave up. the U-joint was in about four pieces.

I just wonder if it's my Locker going this? I haven't got into the third member as I felt I had the the problem corrected.

Another Photo: http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn203/wildwestbows/Team west Outdoors/IMG_0437.jpg

 

[boomhauer]

I looked into it and replaced both upper and lower ball joints as they where screwed and replaced the wheel bearings, they where in a bad way as well. The sounds stopped for the most part until just before the axle snapped. I think your both right, the U-joint and the ear both gave up. the U-joint was in about four pieces.

I just wonder if it's my Locker going this? I haven't got into the third member as I felt I had the the problem corrected.

Another Photo: http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn203/wildwestbows/Team%20west%20Outdoors/IMG_0437.jpg

I think you will have much better luck with 95+ shafts which will give you the bigger u-joint. I don't think the locker will be a problem then, but yes the locker definitely will increase your chances of breakage. With a good 760x joint (spicer), you should be ok. -B

 

[whitexj98]

Not a bad idea to grind out for full circle c clips while your in there replacing the u joint.

 

[Speedbump96]

yeah i did the same thing i broke my u joint i have the same locker except mine makes noises like a really bad sound sounding like a broken axle inside the tube i have no idea why but when i take my axle apart ill let u know further

 

[teamwestoutdoors]

yeah i did the same thing i broke my u joint i have the same locker except mine makes noises like a really bad sound sounding like a broken axle inside the tube i have no idea why but when i take my axle apart ill let u know further

Does it pop like something is catching when you first put some throttle to it or when you have the wheels turned hard right? :dunno:

 

[kastein]

You definitely blew up that U-joint, it was probably already worn out before you blew it up... should have replaced it first. Oh well, you made it home, lesson learned, and it only cost a 260 shaft set, which isn't much use offroad with 33s anyways! Consider it a cheap lesson, I've had worse.

A locked d30 on 33s with a sharp turn and throttle is a recipe for disaster, especially with worn out 260 size U-joints.

I would also be very concerned about that d35 like boomhauer said. A d35 on anything over 31s, locked or not, is looking for trouble.

 

[LittleDevilXJ]

I don't think the issue was the ujoint. I think it was the locker and the tight turn. If you heard some abnormal noises from the locker since you bought it, you should have pulled the diff cover off to look and probably pulled the locker out totally to inspect it. (or least that's what I would have done)

Another part is taking turns with a Dana 30 thats locked. I do whatever I can to not fully lock the steering wheel either way. It puts a ton of stress on the joints.

That just my opinion.

 

[msrorysddad]

I would open the diff, clean it and take a look. With the locker, you probably just finished an already weakened u joint. As Little wrote, avoid tight turns with the lock rite, try your best to be in 2wd on tight turns, get new joints, carry spare shafts, and unit bearings, and wheel it like you stole it. The driver's side seems to want to snap more than the pass. FROM MY OWN EXPERIENCE.

 

[WB9YZU]

Some observations I have made over the years:

I have never broken a pass side axle, just the drivers side. I believe the longer length allows the axle to take some torque instead of the joint.

The larger the joint, the weaker the ears on the axle. Because of the larger joint and less metal to hold them, the ears deform and the cap falls out. What follows is not pretty. Go alloy and full clips.

Tight turns with any serious power are a no-no. The locker is engaged, both wheels are powered, they are not turning on the same radius, and the u-joint is operating past it's maximum operating angle; talk about a worse case scenario!

If you break an axle, stop. Repair it where it is. Not doing so can rip the C from the lower ball joint. Sometimes you can drive home after you reassemble that mess, but sometimes you can't; why chance it.

 

[PacificEd]

I have an '88 with a D30, 4.10 gears, Aussie locker and 260 jointed shafts on 32" Maxxis Mudder tires.

Before adding the locker, I never had axle shaft/joint issues. I wheeled some pretty fun places like Windrock and Harlan open/open. I added the Aussie in the D30 before heading to Golden Mountain and I broke two drivers side short shafts. Both shafts were 260 joints. I think the additional stress added by the Aussie locker combined with the small 260 joints caused both failures.

Everyone tells me a set of 297 stock jointed shafts would cure this and alloy shafts with 760's would be even better.

 

[teamwestoutdoors]

I didn't think the noises where coming from the axle, they sounded like it was coming from the hub. So I really didn't think to look into the diff. I did look at the joint but it didn't look bad or have any play in it. I guess I should have covered all my bases. I do carry a spare axle so I was able to change it out on the trail. But the spare is an older one, so I didn't want to continue wheeling on it not knowing if the locker was going to break this one too.

I heard mention of grinding it out, not sure what that means? Any help?:worship:

 

[badron]

Sorry you don't want to hear this but lose the fixed locker and get slectable one. As well as bigger Us.

 

[korn9613]

i had the same set up, except my front end is a ford dana 44, with chevy knuckle conversion. the 760 joints will not fit through the knuckle, unless you bore them out. i broke axle joints just about every other time we went out. i took it out, havent broke since. yes i wish i had it in still but on the front end locker, i think you really need to spend the money and do it right. selectable locker is the way to go. even with the bigger joints, your going to break, period. not as often but you will, and in my expensive and painfulexperience, it was axle joints, and inner axle and stub axle replacement everytime, gets expensive quick.