Important

I hope to close to badlands bound in 24 hours...when my vacation starts...

mac 'just need to pack coolers' gyvr
 
reminds me of the time I had amazon drop ship a giant black rubber... "dog toy" to a dbag on pirate who had stiffed someone in the secret santa gift giving thing.

I wonder what his wife thought of that when it showed up with his name on it :laugh2:
 
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Went to the local Jeep junkyard today to try and find a front driveshaft, found this gem out in the yard; anyone recognize it? I don't remember whose it was. Renix era, red with black stripe on the hood.

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I thought for a second that it was Brad's first XJ, but that was a 2 door and we hadn't joined the club in time to make it to WF08.
 
Replacing dana 30 pinion bearings and I am in over my head. Got all the bearings off and races knocked out but the new oil slinger is 0.030 and the old one was 0.065. There were no pinion depth shims in the old setup. So I should use 0.035 of depth shims and keep the original amount of preload shims and I should be good right?

I am probably way oversimplifying this, I have no setup bearings, and this is tech in Important. But I know many qualified people read this and might prevent me from going any further and screwing things up.
 
Can you reuse the slinger?

It's a little boogered up... If I can smack it flat again am I better off to reuse than than try to compensate for the new one?

Also is it unusual to not have any depth shims or am I just lucky?

I will check contact pattern afterwards, if it's reasonably close I'll get through the crawl even if I have to pull it apart later.
 
It's a little boogered up... If I can smack it flat again am I better off to reuse than than try to compensate for the new one?

Also is it unusual to not have any depth shims or am I just lucky?

I will check contact pattern afterwards, if it's reasonably close I'll get through the crawl even if I have to pull it apart later.

I have never had an issue straightening them and reusing, a lot of install kits don't even come with new ones. I have seen several w no extra shims.
 
I have never had an issue straightening them and reusing, a lot of install kits don't even come with new ones. I have seen several w no extra shims.

Thanks Brian... I will give it a shot and see what happens, probably better to try it and find out now while I have a little bit of time to get it figured out.
 
Replacing dana 30 pinion bearings and I am in over my head. Got all the bearings off and races knocked out but the new oil slinger is 0.030 and the old one was 0.065. There were no pinion depth shims in the old setup. So I should use 0.035 of depth shims and keep the original amount of preload shims and I should be good right?

I am probably way oversimplifying this, I have no setup bearings, and this is tech in Important. But I know many qualified people read this and might prevent me from going any further and screwing things up.

It's a little boogered up... If I can smack it flat again am I better off to reuse than than try to compensate for the new one?

Also is it unusual to not have any depth shims or am I just lucky?

I will check contact pattern afterwards, if it's reasonably close I'll get through the crawl even if I have to pull it apart later.

Well. Long story short, you have two options:
1. bash it flat and reuse. Try to not use the hammer anywhere near where the bearing seats, or use a deadblow on a flat metal plate so you only straighten the metal instead of spreading it.
2. use new slinger, install .035 of additional pinion depth shims. Pinion depth shims go under the inner pinion bearing race not under the cone with the slinger, which brings us to... you are going to need to punch that race out of the housing. When you do, you'll probably screw up the pinion oil baffle. It's a cheap part, but you probably forgot to order one. Oh, and the new oil baffle may be a different thickness than the old one too, so you need to measure those as well and compensate for that as well. I forget if any of this will affect your pinion bearing preload shim stack as well, but pinion preload should be ~20-40 inch pounds with new pinion bearings (and the carrier not present) when the pinion nut is torqued to 200 foot pounds. Remember to order yourself a second brand new pinion nut so you can use a new nut each time, I've seen people booger up the threads on the pinion trying to reuse an old nut for setup purposes and you NEED to use a new one when you do the final install. The pinion nut is a large SAE size (I want to say 3/4 or 7/8 fine thread, but not sure) so if you have access to an assortment of such hardware, a grade 8 UNF nut for the right size will work fine for setup purposes, or if you have access to a tap set that large, you can just run the appropriately sized tap through the old nut to clean up the threads and use it as a setup nut.

Other things that will help out if you go this route: cut the axle tube off an old 8.25 axle housing and use it as a pinion seal driver for d30s, it works great, perfect size (if you cut it off where it's larger, not where it's necked down to go to the bearing and brake flange.) You don't need to fully torque the pinion nut to check your patterns and backlash, just torque it to the point that everything's seated. Don't forget to put one hand inside the diff to hold the pinion while using a deadblow to force the pinion back out of the outer pinion bearing cone while doing the setup, dropping the damn thing into the drain pan is almost as annoying as dropping it on the floor.

But really I'd just bash it flat with a deadblow and reuse it.

Where do you get full circle clips for 760 joints?
they're regular 1 1/8" ID full circle clips, should be available at any good hardware store or on mcmaster. Get the thickest ones you can find.
 
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