Important

hubs97xj said:
You don't have to tear the header panel off. The pic just happens to show the wiring harness; it's only torn apart because I hit a deer the day before, and decided to install my trans cooler and tidy up some wiring. :)

You only need to remove the headlight bezels (2 screws each) and the grille (4 or 5 screws?).

Another way to do it: http://www.opiebennett.com/tech/headlight/index.htm
Click to expand...


Okay, feeling a little more confident, I do have a few questions. First one, what is the bracket for? The other is where would I find the screw for the relays? Lowes? Is the factory plug behind the battery?
 
hubs97xj said:
The two ring terminals (short black wires on the two pin in the upper left in your pic) go to the positive battery terminal. Fish the harness though the hole in the crossmember, along the front of the radiator. Plug the H4 connector with the male terminals (yellow plug on yours) into the stock passenger side headlight connector. On each headlight connector of the harness (white plugs on yours), there is a short black wire with a ring terminal. That will go to a ground on the body. I used self-drilling screws for mine, others use crossmember bolts and such. Sand down to bare metal, or test the ground with a DMM to make sure it has no resistance. Fish the harness connectors through the headlight buckets in the header panel, connect to lights. Done.

Here's a pic of my junk when I had it torn apart. You can see where I've run the harness, and grounded it. My relays are on the bracket next to the battery, just like all the other install threads.

^this....also unplug fuses 3 and 4. Oh, do you have fog lights?

http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii244/AHhub/forum stuff/?action=view&current=DSCF5569.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Was in the 50's all day while we worked cattle and now it is 2:30 in the morning and it is sleeting as I lay here hearing it hit the house..... This weather is nuts.
 
5N95L85Jf3Fa3J13Hec1g3c9812da4f8a13b2.jpg


Anyone know what locker this is? They have it listed as a Tru-Loc locker for a d44. It looks like an Electrac locker from Eaton but I am not sure.
 
85xjwoody said:
5N95L85Jf3Fa3J13Hec1g3c9812da4f8a13b2.jpg


Anyone know what locker this is? They have it listed as a Tru-Loc locker for a d44. It looks like an Electrac locker from Eaton but I am not sure.
Click to expand...

Could it be the electric locker out of a rubicon axle?

mac 'was that a tru-loc?' gyvr
 
Question for sump pump owners... had one installed a month or two ago after finding 6" of water in the crawlspace. To the tune of $thousands...

With all the snow melt and rain in the last day, it seems to be running a lot - but oddly not a lot more than it does when it's dry. I've got 30' of pipe under the house and 15' of discharge into the yard. I can hear the water running back into the pit when it shuts off, so I'm guessing it's pumping the same water over and over. I'm wondering why the "pros" didn't install a check valve or something to prevent that... is that normal practice?
 
they screwed up, there should have been a foot valve installed at the pump to prevent back flow or the discharge should have been ran out to a lower grade then the sump. I believe that it is code in most places to have that valve at teh pump...but if you are like me and in an area where there is no code, or not enforced, it is hard to make them stand behind it...other then it is not functioning properly. Call them and tell them to get back and fix it b/c it will just burn up that sump in no time.
 
I did some searching this morning and came across a few pictures like that. They guy that has it for sale has not been answering the phone, so I am trying to find out some info on it until he does return my call. The electric plug looks different than the one I pictured. I am just trying to figure out what the heck this came out of. All I know is a d44.
 
XJ&CHZ4ME said:
they screwed up, there should have been a foot valve installed at the pump to prevent back flow or the discharge should have been ran out to a lower grade then the sump. I believe that it is code in most places to have that valve at teh pump...but if you are like me and in an area where there is no code, or not enforced, it is hard to make them stand behind it...other then it is not functioning properly. Call them and tell them to get back and fix it b/c it will just burn up that sump in no time.
Click to expand...

That figures... every time I decide something's beyond my capabilities and let a "pro" handle it, something like this happens. I'll be pressing them to come back and fix it, worst case I'll just have to buy one and crawl down there and do it myself. There's a creek behind the property (200' from the house) but that's the only place at a lower elevation than the crawlspace. Talk about pushing crap uphill.

It's obvious to me now that the house is in a low spot, but I was blinded by it being affordable, newer construction, and the only thing available with a couple acres in the short time I had to buy another house. But with what it cost after the last round of selling/buying, I think I'm stuck here for a while. Might as well drop the 15-20k on a shop and then I'll at least have one building that doesn't piss me off...
 
depending on the size of the outflow line, you should very easily be able to get a foot valve and place it in line on the back side of the pump. Just make sure that your pump has enough power/HP to push the water through the foot valve or it will end up running and burning itself up trying to press the water through a vavle that it did not have enough power to open. I had that happen on a submersible pump in our basement, it did not have enough power to push the water up 8' of straight elevation and it powered out before it would push through the valve...it would always backflow a few gallons and the pump would run nearly all the time. I eventually jackhammered out the basement and had a trackhoe come in and dig out a new drain from the basement to the field...you may have seen that mess next to the house in front of Camille's garage when you guys came to visit. :D
 
I have two sump pumps in my basement, and yes they need a check valve. In the spring my outlet is under water and it still pumps.

After mine pumps, I hear water running into the crock, but that's just the water flowing from the tile. Some days the pumps will only set for 20/30 seconds before they have to pump again. I live in a very high water level area.
 
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