Important

Airbags are a must for coils. I'm running them on the Tahoe and they make a world of difference.

I've been happy with my 'hoe for tow duty, but with all this talk I think I need to get some bags.

Quick search found some Firestone bags for $82. I cant see any reason not to get a set.

...just to clarify, you're using the bags that go inside the coils?
 
"you are paying for the shop of your choice to fix this, or I will see you in court. your choice.

this part right here may be all you have to say. with the way things are these days, there's no way he would think you are bluffing and im sure he knows you would have a case. so start throwing the sue word at him and things may change.
 
I've been happy with my 'hoe for tow duty, but with all this talk I think I need to get some bags.

Quick search found some Firestone bags for $82. I cant see any reason not to get a set.

...just to clarify, you're using the bags that go inside the coils?

Yes. I had one go bad about a year ago and Firestone sent a replacement out with no questions.
 
Tongue weight on a gooseneck or 5th wheel should be more than a tag or bumper pull as it's loaded down over the rear axle (possibly a couple of inches forward,) instead of significantly behind the rear axle. An in-bed hitch will not unload the front axle like a tag trailer.

I don't disagree that I think that's a little too much weight on the truck, though. Having said that, a buddy of mine towed my CTD 600 miles in July on an 18' tag trailer with a 2009 Dodge 1500. For a light truck, it handled amazingly well, and actually was not really significantly overloaded.
 
I hate dealerships and I hate service advisors that try to talk down to you...especially when they act like they know more than you.

mac '#wants to scream' gyvr
 
I hate dealerships and I hate service advisors that try to talk down to you...especially when they act like they know more than you.

mac '#wants to scream' gyvr

As long as you dont hate the D bags behind the parts counter :D
 
$125 just to remove the valve cover.

$425 total to remove valve cover and replace the cam wheel. If, that's the problem.

Does not include the cam wheel or any parts.

mac 'hmmmm $400 core' gyvr
 
What do you use to grease u joints that have the zert on the cap? You need like some type of needle attachment I'm assuming but cant find anything .

What kind of "Zerk" fitting ???

You'll generally find 2 kinds on a Jeep. Both are screwed into the cap, or TRE. They come in different thread sizes, but the fitting end is the same size per type.

1) The kind that looks like a tiny trailer ball. (Standard drive shaft, upper ball joint, TREs)

2) And the high clearance type that looks like a defective screw head. (CV joints, front axle shaft wheel joints).

#1 is a standard Zerk and uses what came with the grease gun.
#2 is a high clearance Zerk fitting and uses an attachment that looks like the business end of a #2 pencil, but without the steep angle. The fitting replaces the standard attachment on the grease gun. This is available at most any NAPA, any Auto parts store of any repute, an some farm implement stores.

-Ron
 
$125 just to remove the valve cover.

$425 total to remove valve cover and replace the cam wheel. If, that's the problem.

Does not include the cam wheel or any parts.

mac 'hmmmm $400 core' gyvr

I feel for you. I had an engine built by a well known rebuilder. We went to 9:1 flatop pistons, stainless steel valves (which were machined down from a set of slightly larger valves, an a slight milling to clean up the heads. I wanted the fun of putting it together, so I took the basket case home. On assembly I found the engine, if started, would hole the new pistons due to clearance issues. I took it back to him, and after measuring it out, he verified I was right.

Then he told me how much he would charge me to fix his mistake.

Something akin to "Forget You" escaped my lips, and I have told everyone I know not to have an engine rebuilt by them.

-Ron
 
What kind of "Zerk" fitting ???

You'll generally find 2 kinds on a Jeep. Both are screwed into the cap, or TRE. They come in different thread sizes, but the fitting end is the same size per type.

1) The kind that looks like a tiny trailer ball. (Standard drive shaft, upper ball joint, TREs)

2) And the high clearance type that looks like a defective screw head. (CV joints, front axle shaft wheel joints).

#1 is a standard Zerk and uses what came with the grease gun.
#2 is a high clearance Zerk fitting and uses an attachment that looks like the business end of a #2 pencil, but without the steep angle. The fitting replaces the standard attachment on the grease gun. This is available at most any NAPA, any Auto parts store of any repute, an some farm implement stores.

-Ron

Yup parts plus had one this afternoon! Thanks.
 
This tip will work with any fittings...

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Just used it to for a hard to reach zerk on my boys truck.
 
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