- Location
- Michigan
I like that color, and those wheels look soooo good.
Welcome back, looks like a nice rig.
Welcome back, looks like a nice rig.
Important
- Thread starter bshaw
- Start date
97XJ2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wisconsin & the U.P.
Looks good, but what's up with the MT/R's on the rear, the tread looks "finer" than the fronts.
- Location
- NE Indiana
Nice work Gene...and it doesn't say "free candy"
mac 'never been able to afford the new body style' gyvr
mac 'never been able to afford the new body style' gyvr
- Location
- Columbus, IN
Retreads are in the rear. Hopefully everything that says good year will be gone soon! I'm really liking the idea of Firestone Destination M/T's.
- Location
- Columbus, In
The Expo rig setup looks badass Gene!
Flexd'Zombie apocalypse ready and I want roof sliders'XJ
Last edited by a moderator:
- Location
- bourbonnais IL
i like those roof sliders, kinda want to ditch my basket on top
bmyohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake Orion, MI
I can see pats hand prints all over the side of that tree guard Gene! 
- Location
- Southwest IN
Looks good Gene, I like the expo theme. Just don't go all Expedition Portal on us
The plethora of cheap(er) XJs on the classifieds is making me want to save pennies for another rig, and I'd like to go the 'expo' direction with one as well (even though everyone knows you have to have a FJ40 or 4Runner to be a 'true' expo rig)
The plethora of cheap(er) XJs on the classifieds is making me want to save pennies for another rig, and I'd like to go the 'expo' direction with one as well (even though everyone knows you have to have a FJ40 or 4Runner to be a 'true' expo rig
)
- Location
- Southwest IN
I literally LOL'ed at this.
The carnage and destruction that could have been wrought with one of those is unimaginable
The budget for my Uhaul toterhome conversion is about that. We were going to buy just a trailer, but that still left me borrowing a 1/2 ton tow rig. Uhaul (Mehaul?) is not much more and solves all of those problems. And I'll have a nice dry, heated space to sleep/work on stuff at the campground.
Josh had some, they worked well offroad and in the rocks, weren't horrible on the street. I drove it from CO to OH anyway on those tires.
- Location
- Columbus, IN
I can see pats hand prints all over the side of that tree guard Gene!
That's the kind of friend that Pat is. I take the time to lay the rack down on a 30 degree gravel driveway with a 20 MPH crosswind. Then spray bomb it with a cheap rattle can. Pat decides to jack his leg on a fourway he left hooked on a lug nut and fingerprints my awesome paint job!
Big "thanks to pat for using his shop"Hank
hanaxj87
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cincinnati,Ohio
Thanks to all for sharing your brake info...Heres what I'm gonna try.Installing a brake booster and pedal assy from a 98 XJ.This will allow me to use a Master cylinder from a 1999 Dodge Ram.
Nick
Nick
have you tried gutting the proportioning valve?
a side note, I hate recapping PCB's. it's so PITA.
hanaxj87
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cincinnati,Ohio
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
ugh. agreed x1000. I hate getting the old cap out and cleaning the pads up more than installing the new one.
Mine is ffuuuuuuuuuu
It's going bye bye next month when I get back to working on the Jeep. Probably going to do a wilwod jobby like this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11179/?rtype=10
I cheat, I use my desoldering iron, heat the pad up from the back and stick the lead from the new one into the pad and up into the desoldering iron tip. Saves all that tedious work cleaning up the holes and making the new ones go in proper. It's still PITA.
I just got back from winding the village clock. Man, I must be getting old, that shit had me winded and my nuts were sweaty. Of course my little cousin came along, so I was working faster than my normal winding pace because they were on a schedule.
87 "clock winder" manche
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
When I can, I clip the part off and then use heat and a quick blast of compressed air (if I've no idea where the compressor is, as usual, that means I blow hard on it myself, make sure to put the iron on the OTHER side of the board if using this method!) to blow what's left of the lead and most of the solder out of the hole. Then I clean up with solder wick and install the new part. Caps are a pain though because there usually isn't space under them to get the clippers in.
just jerk the caps off with a pair of pliers. The leads will pull right out of most of them, leaves you with a PCB that just has a bunch of leads sticking out. You'll still have to clip them, because most of the time they have flat bits in the cap.
If it were anything more than a video card, or something that I REALLY cared about and wanted to be clean I would use a solder pump and get the holes opened up and clean, but to be honest, this was on a Geforce 6200 video card, so it's not the end of the world if it looks a little nasty around the caps. A dab of flux and the old solder sticks to the caps just fine and voila, done.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Last time I did that it was on a shitty quality PCB and I ripped the pads out. It was a multilayer board, so no repairs were economical enough... into the trash it went! Been reluctant to use that method again since then.
yeah I could see that happening.
if you heat up the lead before jerking them out it softens the plastic in the cap, then it doesn't happen.
Like I said, I wouldn't do it to anything that was expensive or important, but fixing a junk video card IDGAF.
