Hydro-assist for $75

[scoobyxj]

If I understand what Goatman and Vintagespeed is saying, when your normal steering goes to full lock, the pump goes into bypass mode thus preventing major carnage to the steering box.

But when there is a ram with more stroke then the box, the ram continues to take fluid even the though the steering box has reached the end of it's travel. As a result, the pump doesn not go into bypass and continues to feed the ram fluid. So now your ram is pushing against the the steering box (and other suspension components) and somethings going to have to give.

Did I explain that right? I've been evesdropping on this topic trying to learn more about hydro assist, so lets see if I've learned anything :wierd:


Something else I wanted to point out, someone said full hyrdro is iffy cause you could blow a hose while driving and lose your steering. How is that any worse then having a tie rod end break of something?

If that is the way it works then I can see how it could be distructve. I was under the impression that the ram wouldn't efect it in that way. I been evesdropping myself for the same reasons.

 

[vintagespeed]

.............Im a DIY kinda guy, if you cant Do It Your self, you cant fix it, so you shouldent be messing with it.......Any rebuildable ram you should be able to take it aparts and add washers internally to reduce the throw. The washer reduces the amount of volume of fluid so it makes the ram stop earlier. With no space for more fluid it will bypass your steering pump earlier, it can NOT crush the internal washer.

Maybe you shouldn't be building cylinders Ash. You cannot simply add washers into a hydraulic cylinder. When I was building my full hydro I considered this to shorten the throw but you can only add them on ONE side of a single ended double acting cylinder. This only limits extension & not compression and it reduces the volume on the side of the cylinder that has the shaft running through it further throwing your balance off. Both sides of the piston (center of the cylinder) should ideally be balanced for equal turn rates and number of turns side to side, any more imbalance will cause quicker turning and fewer turns to one side.

As for adding washers inside a cylinder, the force of the piston bottoming on these washers will quickly tear them apart and cause floating metal in your hydro system, tearing up your packing (seals) and plugging your steering valve.

This just doesn't work well at all. I consulted with 3 hydraulic service techs. at my work about shortening the stroke of my cylinder and the only way to do it right is a custom shaft/piston assembly or a PROPERLY SIZED cylinder.

-jb

 

[Big Bear]

I've seen them all, and read plenty about it, and talked on the phone.........just not completely satisfied yet with what the results would be.

I know, I know......just do it.

Just wondering if you have looked at these yet.http://www.rocklogic4x4.com/ They look about the same as AGR's. The guys that run this shop are really good. I have had them do a few things for me and their quality is outstanding. Let me know what you think. I have plans of using this setup after I get my 44 for the front.

 

[Goatman]

Just wondering if you have looked at these yet.http://www.rocklogic4x4.com/ They look about the same as AGR's. The guys that run this shop are really good. I have had them do a few things for me and their quality is outstanding. Let me know what you think. I have plans of using this setup after I get my 44 for the front.

Yeah, I saw it. Like I said, I'm not unhappy with my steering, just want to eventually install the assist to relieve some of the stress on the box/frame/track bar, and the easier steering would be nice. I'm not in a hurry.........concentrating on new motor, new shocks/bumpstops, and misc repairs/upgrades. I'll get to the ram assist eventually, hopefully before I rip the box off of the frame again (have to remember to watch where I'm going).

 

[CREEPRS]

ashman, I did not mount the ram to the frame, it is mounted to the axle and to the tie-rod, I did not blow a gearbox, I snapped one of the bolts on my track bar mount, and the other one worked it way loose.

You mounted your ram form the frame to your tie rod?
Other wise your track bar failure caused your box failure...

ARG is alot of money that does not need to be spent.
Im a DIY kinda guy, if you cant Do It Your self, you cant fix it, so you shouldent be messing with it.

More ideas for you guys.
Any rebuildable ram you should be able to take it aparts and add washers internally to reduce the throw. The washer reduces the amount of volume of fluid so it makes the ram stop earlier. With no space for more fluid it will bypass your steering pump earlier, it can NOT crush the internal washer.

I didnt need to add washers to mine. 8in was great.