Here's the Cruzin Illusion HP44 build to Waggy width
In the late 1960’s Ford directed Dana to design a high pinion, reverse spiral 44. The first 3-4 years of production used a kingpin knuckle design that is obsolete, and difficult to play with. One could use an early housing and press aftermarket inner-knuckles on to fix this limitation. About 1970, Ford began utilizing a ball joint inner knuckle that is very common. The early to mid 70’s F-100 and F-150 Ford axles utilized drum brakes, and either a 5 bolt or 6 bolt spindle pattern.. This should not be confused with wheel bolt pattern. The spindle bolt pattern attaches the spindle to the outer knuckle. All F-100’s and F-150’s were a 5 on 5.5” wheel bolt pattern and they are about 67” wide, WMS to WMS. These early Ford units are desirable because Ford welded the suspension mounts (Radius Arm “C’s” as they are commonly known) to the axle tubes. Beginning in mid-to-late 1976, Ford began casting the suspension mounts as part of the inner knuckle assembly. These mounts take up a considerable amount of tube, and if you want to use any other than Ford’s suspension design, they will vex your efforts. In 77-79, the vaunted an highly prized “Camper Special” F-150 was available. This is basically an F-250 axle with 5 on 5.5” outers which you are going to ditch anyway (more later). Don’t pay a premium for this unit unless you have the odd desire to run leaf springs, as the extra material in the leaf spring perch makes it difficult to mount link mounts. The same applies for the F-250’s of that vintage. In late 1979, Ford revamped there whole front suspension design, and introduced the highly undesirable, Twin Traction design.
With this information in hand I set out to look for a 1970 to early 1976 Ford F-100 or F-150 High Pinion (Reverse Spiral Cut) Dana 44. I came across a early 1976 F-150 axle that I purchase for $175.00.
This is the axle from a 1976 Ford F150.
The factory welded on radius arm mounts have been cut off.
I originally was going to shorten the axle to a Wagoneer width and offset which would make you shorten the drivers side 3.11" (18.91"-15.8"=3.11")
and shorten the passenger side 1.79" (33.91"-32.12"=1.79")
But with the decision of shortening the axle equally on both sides to keep the Pinion where it should be with proepr yoke alignment and the T&T Truss system, it came out that I should shorten the axle on both sides 2.45"
3.11"+1.79"=4.9"
4.9"/2=2.45"
This is still Waggy width but not with the same offset, so stock Waggy axles will not be used.
To mark the correct spot where I was suppose to cut the axle, I took a few measurements. I needed to know how far out the inner knuckles set out from the end of the tube. With my dial calipers I got a measurement of 0.130". So I added that to the 2.45" and mark the axle tube at 2.58" from the outboard side of the inner knuckle. I then cut the inner knuckles off with a sawsall just inside the welds on the axle tube. This gave me clearance to use a chop saw to cut the axle tubes to the right length. If using this method make sure that you set up the chop saw level and that the axle tube is also level so you achieve a perfect perpendicular cut.
After determining that the pinion angle that would work best in my vehicle would be 13 degrees. I set the axle on jack stands at that pinion angle and then knocked on the inner C's at a 5 degree angle.
Then I welded on T&T Customs HP44 XJ truss system with the spring seat brackets and lower control arm brackets. The system is really easy to install, you just set your axle at the correct pinion angle, set the truss on top and level it and weld it up, then all the other brackets line up to that truss and get welded on.
Some shiny paint and your ready for knuckles.
