How much to clear 38's

[53guy]

I know my first post shouldnt be ridiculing someone, but if you think you have the ability to puts 1 tons under you jeep, but have to ask how much lift youll need , then you need to put down the tools.

Yours 7-8" lift should be fine for 38s , i run 33's with a 3" lift, if your 38s rub, just cut some more.

X2!!!!


With 38's and 8" you're still really high. Why can't you trim your front fenders? I'm at 4.5" with 35's and I could stuff probably 37's with the trimming I've done and I DD my crap. Not quite sure what you're getting at here, but why are you worried about DD'ing your rig when you've cut the back off and you're going to 38's? Sounds like a trail rig to me....btw, if tires are rubbing at FULL STUFF, its time for bumpstops. Full indicates that there is NO more upward travel, so therefore there will be rub...................but I could just be dumb.........


























....or not.

 

[53guy]

Well if you wouldn't quit bein so damn cheap with your build you wouldnt have that. TURKEY BASTERS ARE NOT TO BE USED AS HYDRO-ASSIST STEARING PUMPS


Screw up the new knuckles yet?

hahaha, thanks ass! I'm having trouble fitting my turkey baster on my front axle....its screwing up my sticker placement! Maybe I'll just get a better turkey baster and that'll solve my problems.....

Knuckles aren't broken yet...but they sure look like they're about to fall appart. :shhh:

 

[uratard2]

X2!!!!


With 38's and 8" you're still really high. Why can't you trim your front fenders? I'm at 4.5" with 35's and I could stuff probably 37's with the trimming I've done and I DD my crap. Not quite sure what you're getting at here, but why are you worried about DD'ing your rig when you've cut the back off and you're going to 38's? Sounds like a trail rig to me....btw, if tires are rubbing at FULL STUFF, its time for bumpstops. Full indicates that there is NO more upward travel, so therefore there will be rub...................but I could just be dumb..........or not.

I have cut my front fenders above the body line. The tires hit the inner wheelwells, not the fenders. (Sorry I wasn't more specific. My shock also bottoms at this point. I currently have about 5" of tire uptravel and about 12" down from ride height. I wish I had pictures, this would be easier.) This is trail only. No road miles anymore. I have no doors, no glass, no back half, lots of tubing and shitty 1/4 ton axles. I am upgrading to 1 tons and and all the bs that goes with it.

Maybe I should just go with 52's!!!

Thanks for the creative criticism, I just rode with another buddy a while back that had about 2" uptravel front and rear and it was very rigid. I just don't want to ride on bumpstops. I want to keep some uptravel. It sounds like I should be fine from what I am hearing. If it's not enough, I'll address it later. Thanks

 

[53guy]

Thanks for the creative criticism, I just rode with another buddy a while back that had about 2" uptravel front and rear and it was very rigid. I just don't want to ride on bumpstops. I want to keep some uptravel. It sounds like I should be fine from what I am hearing. If it's not enough, I'll address it later. Thanks

You're welcome. If you don't feel like bottoming out on your bump stops, I'd suggest throwing some coin at a pair of these....it'll solve your probs quick...

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=63&cat=502&page=1

 

[uratard2]

Cool, I suppose that would be an option. Hopefully it all works out with the rubber. I had heard of these but never seen one. Thanks.

Has anyone seen the rubber or poly stops that you put on shock shafts. I wonder if you could cut the end off a regular shock shaft, install the bumpstop, and the weld it back on. The shock would also be the bumpstop. Is this a bad idea? Just a cheap thought...

 

[53guy]

Cool, I suppose that would be an option. Hopefully it all works out with the rubber. I had heard of these but never seen one. Thanks.

Has anyone seen the rubber or poly stops that you put on shock shafts. I wonder if you could cut the end off a regular shock shaft, install the bumpstop, and the weld it back on. The shock would also be the bumpstop. Is this a bad idea? Just a cheap thought...

Yeah, they have them, good shocks have them on and its super simple to do on rebuildable shocks. I suppose you could weld the end back on the shock, but I've never torn appart a conventional shock to see what the shaft was made of and if it would even be worth it. Although, if I had proper bumpstops, I wouldn't want to use my shock as a bumpstop anyways. I'd set my bumpstops up to prevent my shock from bottoming and my tires from rubbing what I don't want them to.

 

[ktm racer 419]

for what its worth i run 4" with 37" tires and ever so rarely bottom out on the street. rides like a cloud too.

 

[vetteboy]

7.5" and 39.5s.

It flexes enough.

 

[98POSXJ]

I run 7" and 37's with minor trimming in the front and have no issues!

 

[Archdukeferdinand]

+1 more on the 5" on 33s and I could stuff 35s.

38s on fullwidths? Common household items finish the build!

Just toss a couple a bricks on top of the leafs and use some simmons beautyrest coils up front. I find serta coils to be a little bit undersprung, and that viscoelastic memory foam they use in that space-bed is just right but $$$.


Nah, like everyone says you're cool at that height. Wish I was getting tons under mine...

 

[ZacSquatch]

+1 more on the 5" on 33s and I could stuff 35s.

38s on fullwidths? Common household items finish the build!

Just toss a couple a bricks on top of the leafs and use some simmons beautyrest coils up front. I find serta coils to be a little bit undersprung, and that viscoelastic memory foam they use in that space-bed is just right but $$$.


Nah, like everyone says you're cool at that height. Wish I was getting tons under mine...

If you get the Sleep number from select comfort you can change the spring rate for DD or trail rig with a touch of a button...

 

[uratard2]

Thanks to all. Thanks for pics Vetteboy. That is what I needed to see. Looks like I will be fine.

 

[white_elephant]

im glad i read this.. ...

this asshole told me i had to run 10 inch lift kit to clear 37s ...:flamemad:

http://www.miamicrawlers.com/tasmania.htm

 

[white_elephant]

im glad i read this.. ...

this asshole told me i had to run 10 inch lift kit to clear 37s ...:flamemad:

http://www.miamicrawlers.com/tasmania.htm

 

[Archdukeferdinand]

im glad i read this.. ...

this asshole told me i had to run 10 inch lift kit to clear 37s ...:flamemad:

http://www.miamicrawlers.com/tasmania.htm

Geesh... I can't imagine wanting to lift an XJ 10" to clear any tires. Lotsa mud in FLA tho.

My direction would be to start cutting and caging, trim the fenders up and comp cut the rear quarters... My webwheeling guess would be that you could fit 37s on 5.5- 6" if you trimmed & bumpstopped properly.

I don't know that asshole is necessary, (I also don't know what your discussion was like, maybe he is an asshole) XJs do need quite a bit of lift to fit big tires if you aren't willing to trim at all...

Of course I could see building a mud rig at 12" above stock just because of how much higher that puts the body and drivetrain. For a trailrig or crawler, no way you want that high a COG but for mudder not such a big deal.

 

[white_elephant]

well..if you see the name...

its miami "CRAWLERS".....because they crawl.....if it was for mudding..ok perfect..but...12 inches for crawling..its crazy