How hard to pull and replace the AW4 Auto Transmission?

[Redsnake]

Just to piggyback on this thread

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1055370

If I can find a good used transmission, just how hard it is to pull and swap an AW4 for an AW4? I have a '96 XJ, 4.0, AW4 4x4.

Any good write-ups w/pics I could read threw? My Haynes manual is not that great... always nice to see garage mechanics doing the work and what they can relay.

I've found a very reputable transmission guy around my area that quoted me $350 to install (assuming I provide the used AW4) or $1450 to pull my AW4 and overhaul it w/a 1 year warranty. Does this sound reasonable or high/low?

Thanks.

 

[kastein]

I've done it in one day before...

tools needed: all the usual crap, plus an e12 external torx bit, a set of fuel + tranny line quick disconnect tools (the anodized aluminum ones from autozone are great), a load leveler, and an engine hoist. I used the harbor freight hoist and leveler.

You can get it out from under the rig but I prefer to yank the whole drivetrain really.

Drop the exhaust, drop the driveshafts, pull the tranny crossmember, disconnect all wiring and hoses etc, remove the header panel + headlight assembly, maybe pull the bumper, disconnect the motor mounts from the frame, remove the radiator, yank the whole drivetrain out, stuff the new AW4 into the middle of it, reassembly is the reverse of removal but you curse in different places. If your AC works you might not want to do it this way, but you can disconnect the compressor from the engine and push it off to the side along with the condenser. It's also easy to disconnect the power steering pump from the motor and set it aside rather than messing with the (probably rusted) lines and having to bleed it after.

Replace any seals while it's out, that's when it is easiest. I'd do the adapter housing seal, the torque converter / pump seal, the manifold gasket, and possibly the oil pan/valve cover gaskets, RMS, harmonic balancer, dizzy gasket, and OFA o-rings while it is removed from the engine bay.

If you don't feel like doing that you can go in from underneath but I hate doing that personally. If I had to do it in the winter I'd think real hard about just paying the $350, to be honest, but spring/fall/summer I'd do it myself.

 

[NorCalChris]

If your rig is lifted it is easy to get them out the bottom ( my opinion). At work we have a car lift and tranny jacks and that makes it really easy, but at home it can be done. Ive done a few of them at home, in fact before a race we had to do a fewin a 12hr period. (drop broken one, install used one, drop used one because it doesnt shift, drop one out of my jeep, install into race jeep).
Usually sockets and rachets, the e12 external torx on top, and the quick disconnect tool.. its easier to drop the tcase with the tranny and seperate on the ground. if its your first tranny than plan for a weekend. two car jacks and some wood help alot. as well as some rachet straps. you can run straps across the "frame rails" to hold the tranny in while you unbolt it, also helps control the tranny if your short handed while doing this.

 

[Redsnake]

OK... thanks for all the help and the guide. Sounds like quite the process to get this done.

I found a used AW4 at a local 4x4 shop who works w/this particular transmission guy and they will sell me it for $250. So I'm looking at about $600 +/- to have it installed. I'm starting to think the $600 might be worth it to save myself the headache and busted knuckles and sore back...

 

[lawsoncl]

The AW4 is usually pretty robust so used ones are generally in good condition. $250 isn't bad for a used tranny. The pull-it-yourself salvage yard near me charges $75. What year is the donor tranny? 1990.5-1996 4wd version is what you want. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

 

[BLU-125]

I've replaced the E12s with hex head bolts in the couple I've done.

 

[DanMan2k06]

One thing I ran into the other weekend when I did mine, MAKE SURE YOUR TRANNY DIPSTICK TUBE WILL COME OUT! Mine was so stuck it took about an hour of wrestling before we said F-it and dropped the whole exhaust to lower the trans more. Even when the trans was on the ground, I could not believe how stuck it was. Definitely wasn't planning on that. With the vehicle lift it wasn't too bad to lower to the tranny other foor and slide out the back, but if you're doing this on the ground there's no way it would be possible.

I've pulled the trans both ways, with the toque converter attached, and without it. Leaving it on the engine is a little easier in the short run, but spills fluid everywhere and you still have to take it off later to reinstall. Also you have to pull the trans back a lot father to get it past the torque converter before lowering. Just take the time and remove the 4 bolts before you yank the trans.

Because I had a trans jack I left the rear driveshaft, trans, and tcase all together. A lot of people complain about the e-12 bolts, maybe because they don't know about them upfront? Personally I've never had any trouble with them. I get about 4' of extensions with a breaker bar all the way back at the t-case. One good snap and they should be loose, then remove as usual. When I put them back in I make sure to lube the heck out of them with some anti-seize. I know some people who just leave them out altogether...

Last thing I can think of off the top of my head, treat the trans hard lines (at the transmission end) like gold. Keep track of all the o-rings and spacers, be careful with the quick disconnects, and don't force anything. I learned the hard way that they break very easily, and are impossible to find locally.

 

[Ecomike]

I've done it in one day before...

tools needed: all the usual crap, plus an e12 external torx bit, a set of fuel + tranny line quick disconnect tools (the anodized aluminum ones from autozone are great), a load leveler, and an engine hoist. I used the harbor freight hoist and leveler.

You can get it out from under the rig but I prefer to yank the whole drivetrain really.

Drop the exhaust, drop the driveshafts, pull the tranny crossmember, disconnect all wiring and hoses etc, remove the header panel + headlight assembly, maybe pull the bumper, disconnect the motor mounts from the frame, remove the radiator, yank the whole drivetrain out, stuff the new AW4 into the middle of it, reassembly is the reverse of removal but you curse in different places. If your AC works you might not want to do it this way, but you can disconnect the compressor from the engine and push it off to the side along with the condenser. It's also easy to disconnect the power steering pump from the motor and set it aside rather than messing with the (probably rusted) lines and having to bleed it after.

Replace any seals while it's out, that's when it is easiest. I'd do the adapter housing seal, the torque converter / pump seal, the manifold gasket, and possibly the oil pan/valve cover gaskets, RMS, harmonic balancer, dizzy gasket, and OFA o-rings while it is removed from the engine bay.

If you don't feel like doing that you can go in from underneath but I hate doing that personally. If I had to do it in the winter I'd think real hard about just paying the $350, to be honest, but spring/fall/summer I'd do it myself.

Jessh, you sound like a friend of mine, if it ain't broke, fix it anyway!!!!


LOL

 

[cruiser54]

I've replaced the E12s with hex head bolts in the couple I've done.

Remove those E12 bolts before any other trans attaching bolts or they'll be a real beyotch to get out.

 

[Redsnake]

Thanks guys!! I've decided I'm going to have the transmission guy do it for me. I could probably do it, but I'm going to let someone who knows how do it & pay him. Woul love to be able to watch him, but have to work to pay the bills.

 

[kastein]

One thing I ran into the other weekend when I did mine, MAKE SURE YOUR TRANNY DIPSTICK TUBE WILL COME OUT! Mine was so stuck it took about an hour of wrestling before we said F-it and dropped the whole exhaust to lower the trans more. Even when the trans was on the ground, I could not believe how stuck it was. Definitely wasn't planning on that. With the vehicle lift it wasn't too bad to lower to the tranny other foor and slide out the back, but if you're doing this on the ground there's no way it would be possible.

I've pulled the trans both ways, with the toque converter attached, and without it. Leaving it on the engine is a little easier in the short run, but spills fluid everywhere and you still have to take it off later to reinstall. Also you have to pull the trans back a lot father to get it past the torque converter before lowering. Just take the time and remove the 4 bolts before you yank the trans.

Because I had a trans jack I left the rear driveshaft, trans, and tcase all together. A lot of people complain about the e-12 bolts, maybe because they don't know about them upfront? Personally I've never had any trouble with them. I get about 4' of extensions with a breaker bar all the way back at the t-case. One good snap and they should be loose, then remove as usual. When I put them back in I make sure to lube the heck out of them with some anti-seize. I know some people who just leave them out altogether...

Last thing I can think of off the top of my head, treat the trans hard lines (at the transmission end) like gold. Keep track of all the o-rings and spacers, be careful with the quick disconnects, and don't force anything. I learned the hard way that they break very easily, and are impossible to find locally.

definitely, that damn dipstick is the worst thing ever invented. Hose it down with your favorite penetrating oil and heat it lightly with a torch right before trying to remove it, then try twisting it to break the bond. It's still a pain in the ass.

I would NOT leave those two upper bolts out, a friend of mine wrecked the pump input seal and flexplate on his jeep by having them fall out. They are needed!

When swapping a tranny in a jeep up here I always plan on the lines being rusted beyond reuse, they are Dorman 624-300, 624-301, and 624-334 plus a pair of 800-714 fittings and it adds up to about 75 bucks.

Jessh, you sound like a friend of mine, if it ain't broke, fix it anyway!!!!


LOL

I do tend to do that... but my jeeps leak like a sieve and there are always plenty of other things I need to fix when I'm doing major repairs so I just cover it all at once "while I'm in there" :roflmao: