how can you tell if the computer is fried?

The wire to the dizzy is a 3 wire cable to the cam position sensor.

As for the ECU, the year splits are different on zjs, but I would bet on a 93 or 95 working, as long as they have the same tranny and engine. Check the crossref on the rockauto catalog.

Not sure what you could resolder, couldn't tell you without a lot of research and likely probing it with an oscope for a few hours. I'm still not sure it's the ECU, anyways. Also, it's an ECU, annd contains a CPU - calling it a CPU is like calling a car an engine :spin1: though people confuse ECU, TCU, PCM, CPU, etc all the time in the auto industry.

Wish I could tell you more about what's wrong with it, but id have to be there with my DMM to really figure anything out.
 
really appreciate your input. And you lost me on the ECU VS. CPU! All I know is there is a box with wires coming out if it that controls stuff :laugh:

If the distribution box checks out, and the oxygen sensors are good.... where would you check next if its not the computer?

Oh and DMM must stand for Digital Multi-Meter correct? I googled it. I have one but have yet to use it. Ive really slacked on diagnostics practice in the past, guess now is a great time to learn some skills!
 
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well turns out the red top was bad :flamemad:


Well the die hard after being on the trickle charger for a couple days held some good power. New rotor, new cap, new champions, dielectric grease everywhere.

What I believe is the CPS harness connection was LOOSE and very oily! So I blew it out with some compressed air and greased it. I go to start it and the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON party1: So I now know for sure the Computer is ok. However when I crank it in park I get nothing, like one click. I put it in neutral and I get click click click click click click.....thats all over and over.

Maybe its not getting enough juice from the battery, but the horn works, headlights are bright, etc.
 
Yeah, sounds like the battery is smoked at this point, or possibly the NSS but I doubt it. Also check your grounds and battery cables.
 
Well when I first hooked up the die hard it showed full voltage on the dash. After cranking multiple tries to start it, it still had good power and all accessories have full power....SO im pretty sure the battery and grounds are good.

Also, I am having no luck getting the CEL to flash codes! ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON....no luck at all. BUT why is it no longer turning over even if that battery was toast, if it could still shine the headlights, why couldn't it give me some rotation :smsoap:
 
Well when I first hooked up the die hard it showed full voltage on the dash. After cranking multiple tries to start it, it still had good power and all accessories have full power....SO im pretty sure the battery and grounds are good.

Also, I am having no luck getting the CEL to flash codes! ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON....no luck at all. BUT why is it no longer turning over even if that battery was toast, if it could still shine the headlights, why couldn't it give me some rotation :smsoap:
because the headlamps require a lot less current than turning over the starter. They're also fed from different wires. You said that the distributor side of the motor was all nasty and the starter is underneat all of that, probably also nasty. I'd pull it out, clean up all of it's connections and maybe take it to the parts store to be tested. While you're at it take the battery to be load tested as well, since it's really an unknown at this point and could be a cause for some of your odd ECU symptoms.

The fact that it ran for a short time would indicate to me that you've got a working ECU, electronics is usually an all or nothing game.
 
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