Help me pick a steering upgrade. I have a dead spot.

Which steering upgrade?

  • Ballistic Fab

    Votes: 19 18.6%
  • Rusty's

    Votes: 10 9.8%
  • Currie Enterprises

    Votes: 53 52.0%
  • JCR Offroad

    Votes: 23 22.5%

  • Total voters
    102
Can I ask because I believe I have a "dead spot". My steering is a bit sloppy. When It was stock not to long ago I got it aligned and it kind of felt the same. I replaced a bent draglink and broken steering stabilizer. Everything else is the same parts on my steering. So I am curious as to upgrading my steering. I'm hoping it will solve my problem.
 
Can I ask because I believe I have a "dead spot". My steering is a bit sloppy. When It was stock not to long ago I got it aligned and it kind of felt the same. I replaced a bent draglink and broken steering stabilizer. Everything else is the same parts on my steering. So I am curious as to upgrading my steering. I'm hoping it will solve my problem.

you may have play in your steering box... i have a "dead spot" but i know my box is just about toast
 
Another vote for currie I don't know how long I've had it on but it's been through 5-6 wheeling trip and 20k at least and its going strong. I'm also swapping it over to my new LJ because I like it so much even though the plan is a BB and 33x10.50's is it overkill maybe but who cares. I have JCR products on my heep and they are top notch as you can tell they are active in the community.
 
A 5/8ths bolts torqued properly will be more then strong enough. It isnt the hole that keeps the bolt from sliding. Its the friction between the heim and the mounting surface.

Your right, bolts are typically meant to clamp parts and create friction. There isn't much surface area on the ball of a heim though. Certainly not enough to overcome the forces of the steering system alone.
 
I'd recommend to stay away from the Rusty's. I have not tested the Rugged Ridge steering but I heard they also used cheap tierod ends. The Rusty's uses cheap tierods. After paying $260.00 for the steering and about another $230.00 or so for 4 new Moog tierod ends, I could have bought the Currie steering and had some cash left over.....lesson learned.

If you want a solid tierod from knuckle to knuckle, the JCR 1 ton steering would be the way to go, although reaming of the knuckles is required.

If you don't mind the stock inverted "Y" steering, the Currie steering would defintely be the way to go, as it is a bolt on mod without any reaming required.....just swap and you're done.

Either of those are good choices, one requires more work than the other but both are strong as heck!
 
Just make your own.
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I've got the JCR UTK and I love it. I find that if you adjust the toe-in to about 1/4" and have a thick enough spacer to prevent TRE rotation that the dead spot is pretty manageable. That being said, I would probably try Currie if I had to do it again - no need to ream the knuckles and plenty strong.
 
I am curious why the dead spot is such a big problem with the JCR and Rusty's steering and the like? (like the Rugged Ridge steering)

YJ Wrangler's have been using the same style steering and nobody ever seemed to complain....as in a solid tierod from knuckle to knuckle........
 
I am curious why the dead spot is such a big problem with the JCR and Rusty's steering and the like? (like the Rugged Ridge steering)

YJ Wrangler's have been using the same style steering and nobody ever seemed to complain....as in a solid tierod from knuckle to knuckle........

YJ's have a a smaller TRE so there isn't a lot of misalignment there. Also you'll find that YJ (and TJ) steering boxes are much lower in relation to the axle than on an XJ. This means less drag link angle and less steering force perpendicular to the ground.

Plus on a YJ you'll find most run max 5" or so spring under axle (SOA means steering mods), where on an XJ many start out there.
 
I've been satisfied with my Currie set-up.

Use has been very similar to what the OP has stated for his rig.

Everyone has to realize that regardless of what type of ends are used, they will eventually wear and need to be replaced, especially with heavier rigs, heavier wheels and tires and the demands of off-road use.

None of them will last forever.
 
Really? I didn't know that about the TRE size. Thought they looked similar. I was thinking the YJ steering would bolt on to the XJ, I guess not, no wonder I've never seen it done before. I thought the knuckles are the same though, hmmmm......
 
Really? I didn't know that about the TRE size. Thought they looked similar. I was thinking the YJ steering would bolt on to the XJ, I guess not, no wonder I've never seen it done before. I thought the knuckles are the same though, hmmmm......

TJ knuckles are the same.
 
I installed the Currie setup on Saturday. Went on easy, Jeep handles smooth now. Had some scary steering after hitting holes and bumps before. Worth the money.
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This is an excellent thread, nice discussion & comparisons going on. FWIW, I think Currie is emerging as a strong front runner, and therefore has pretty much made up my mind. I was trying to avoid what so many describe as a "con" with buying Currie replacement TREs, but I can't see me destroying those any time soon ... and a few weeks down the road I can always order a couple for spares.

Carry on boyz!
 
Since this got dug up again, LOL.....

I purchased the Currie tie rod/drag link.

I put it on last weekend.

The dead spot has been reduced to about half. It's better but not gone. The steering wheel floats for a total of about 2-3 inches now back and forth.

The dead spot was not there at all before the lift.

I guess next I'll look at adjusting the steering box. I just finished putting in a C-Rock frame brace and a M.O.R.E steering box brace.

So I'll check the steering gear then it's off to the alignment shop.

Thanks for all of your input.
 
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