Help me build my front 60

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Jump This

Just another minion!
Location
Borrego Springs Ca.
Although I have yet to even pick one up...
Looking for guidance on what to look for?
King pin, ball joint, unit bearing, what?

What year Ford to look for?
The end game has me running a narrowed axle with Detroit (maybe even a spool!) on 5x5.5 pattern.

I need to get this rolling and don't have much time (find one for me and let me know where it is! ;) )

Thanks
 
definitely document this well for me, hm? :) I've got a feeling that as happy I am with how my 44 build is coming...history repeats, and according to that reasoning, I'll be doing this sometime in the future as well :rolleyes:

Good luck, and happy spending!! :cheers:
 
Just some info.

I know I'm looking for a '79 F-350.
But what are the other options....
What about taking a passenger side drop and retubing it?
Is that an option? Is there a king pin pass drop 60?

Yeah, yeah, I know, search.....
But if one of you already has the answer, then you will
save me some time searching.

:D
 
Is there any real strength gain between the ball joint and king pin 60s? I guess if you are building a 60 you may as well build it as strong as possible, but are people breaking 1 ton ball joints?
 
Starboard M said:
Is there any real strength gain between the ball joint and king pin 60s? I guess if you are building a 60 you may as well build it as strong as possible, but are people breaking 1 ton ball joints?
Click to expand...

I think the issue is with modified steering components on the ball joint.
Flat top knuckles are not part of the ball joint front end.
:dunno:
 
Having worked with Goatmans balljoint front 60 (tera with i believe dodge knuckles, balljoints/unit bearing) and Crackers (hi-9 with solid knuckles, kinpin/hub)

I prefere Goatmans balljoint knuckle setup, even if he is going thru balljoints once a year.. he is after all doing king of the hammers on them, with 40's .. its not unreasonable that he may be pushing the limits of balljoints. ;)
 
cal said:
Having worked with Goatmans balljoint front 60 (tera with i believe dodge knuckles, balljoints/unit bearing) and Crackers (hi-9 with solid knuckles, kinpin/hub)

I prefere Goatmans balljoint knuckle setup, even if he is going thru balljoints once a year.. he is after all doing king of the hammers on them, with 40's .. its not unreasonable that he may be pushing the limits of balljoints. ;)
Click to expand...

I couldn't even imagine the ball joints themselves being an issue, but what kind of steering is he running?
Oh wait, I'd bet it doesn't matter when running full hydro?
 
Jump This said:
I couldn't even imagine the ball joints themselves being an issue, but what kind of steering is he running?
Oh wait, I'd bet it doesn't matter when running full hydro?
Click to expand...

Actually he runs an over the knuckle inverted Y with rod ends.

We suspect the last set may not have been greased after install, but aren't positive. Too many people working too long on too many things at once..

The kingpin knuckles seem unnecessarily heavy and bulky to me. Currie machines balljoints knuckles for hi steer arms iirc.
 
I've been pricing one out - and from what I'm seeing, its *about* the same price to buy the Currie center and throw tubes in it at the length you want, as it is to buy a junkyard 60 and cut it up and throw most of the parts away...

I'm going to be running a Dodge unit bearing 60 with ball joints - the same stuff as Teraflex, but from a 2000 Dodge ram 2500.

I'm working on making the flange for the (currently) 8 lug unit bearing, to get it to a 5 on 5.5 unit bearing - so I can fit 15" wheels, and run my 35" tires till they are bald...

Haven't decided on a center section/tubes yet though.
 
I've figured it out down to really cheap if I do a few things:

junkyard rear 60 ($100?), narrowed, throw the inner / outer knuckles (8 lug) that I have on, run stock stubs, stock 3/4 ton calipers, stock 3/4 ton rotors, but 35 spline Moser inner shafts ($500?), gears + detroit + diff cover - another $1000?

so like $1900?

I think I've talked myself into running 15" wheels at 5 on 5.5 though... so that means different unit bearing plates and different brakes.

I think I've also talked myself into using a 35 spline ford 9" Detroit locker thats been sitting on my bench for a while... though that will cost a lot more.

TrueHi9 gets like $1800 for that, geared / locked.
Spidertrax gets ~$600 for a housing with seals.
Custom machine work on the unit bearing flanges maybe $175?
Custom brake caliper mounts $75?
Inner shafts / CTM's / Stubs - $1500? $2000?
Misc auto parts store parts (GM 1/2 ton calipers, Jeep CJ rotors) another $200?

so like $5000 out the door?
 
Hmmmm....5k is more than I want to spend.

I'll work on a budget, but was hoping to get it built for around $4000 (or less)

I also want to run 5x5.5 wheels (15")....but will work on just going with the 8 bolt pattern wheels and see what that works out to be.
 
Jump This said:
The kingpin 60 I found in Arizona is selling for $825 and that sounds like a good price to me.
Click to expand...

Sounds like an average deal to me, Rick. Especially when you factor in your time and gas money to go pick it up. Besides, I thought you were looking for a 78-79 axle anyway? :D

How would you be with parting out a truck? Maybe you could find a 78-79 or 85-91 F350 locally (I can think of a couple 85-91s near me for 1500 or less), part it out and break even or maybe even come out ahead.

Also, how narrow are you thinking of going?
 
Jump This said:
Hmmmm....5k is more than I want to spend.

I'll work on a budget, but was hoping to get it built for around $4000 (or less)

I also want to run 5x5.5 wheels (15")....but will work on just going with the 8 bolt pattern wheels and see what that works out to be.
Click to expand...

That can be done...

Call Parts Mike Parts and talk about Currie Dana 60 HP centers...

See what he can set you up with brand new - then you'll get an idea of what the parts cost new, and will know what a good deal on used parts is.
 
I'd be narrowing it down to 61". With the later model front end I can cut just the passenger side to get it to the width I want.
That might also allow me to use a stock axle from the earlier model to get the length I need.
That also opens up the option of leaving the eight bolt hubs and even leaving the rear a ff, just cut down.

The possibilities are endless......
 
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