HD fan clutch upgrade...

The dash gauge is slow to drop once the radiator coolant outlet temp drops back down, and slow to pick up on the higher outlet temp at the T stat, but it is more stable, does not jump around.
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STABLE is the key work here. If it jump all over the place like the IRs do. We have 10 times the number of nerves Nelly on here screaming about the sky is falling.
By the way. Many mechanical oil pressure gauges have a restriction biultin to slow or mask any minor fluctuation in oil pressure.
In short gauges jumping around would make people very nerves and that don't sell Jeeps.
 
The dash gauge is slow to drop once the radiator coolant outlet temp drops back down, and slow to pick up on the higher outlet temp at the T stat, but it is more stable, does not jump around.
=====================================================
STABLE is the key work here. If it jump all over the place like the IRs do. We have 10 times the number of nerves Nelly on here screaming about the sky is falling.
By the way. Many mechanical oil pressure gauges have a restriction biultin to slow or mask any minor fluctuation in oil pressure.
In short gauges jumping around would make people very nerves and that don't sell Jeeps.

True, they are called pulse dampeners. They are designed to extend the life of the gauge.

Still I am talking about 5 to 10 minute delays in response that I am seeing, not 5 to 10 seconds, or 1 to 2 seconds.
 
When I did the 99 engine into my '91, I relocated the temperature gauge sender from the back of the head down to the block drain plug, and then drilled and tapped for another one in the thermostat housing. The gauge is consistently 15 degrees hotter than the computer in both locations. There are some real problems with these things. I am going to a junkyard and grabbing the OEM sensor and sender to test with, since I am a little worried at this point that maybe the Standard parts aren't up to snuff.

Follow-up note: I grabbed a sensor and sender at the yard and tested them out. The junkyard sensor reported about 5 degrees below the Standard sensor I installed during the swap. Meanwhile the junkyard sender reported idle temps about 15 degrees below the sensor, while the Standard senders I had previously installed were both approx 15 degrees above the sensor. So the good news is I dropped my temperature by 30 degrees :laugh:

Just for giggles I bought another sender at Autozoe (the in-house Wells/Duralast brand) and it is also higher than the sensors but is closest yet--the gauge shows about 205 cruising down the highway (engine temp is probably 190-200), and at warm idle in the shop the ECM reports about 205 and the gauge show about 212. The Autozone sender seems to be very chatty though and its been all over between 195 and 240 in stop-and-go traffic today.
 
Just installed this hd fan clutch yesterday, vehicle runs noticably cooler in town, and now sounds like a jet at higher rpm!
 
The Autozone sender seems to be very chatty though and its been all over between 195 and 240 in stop-and-go traffic today.

Air bubble(s)?

I have always wondered how important good metal to metal contact is on the ground for the sender (through the threads, through the coolant, and through the block ground).
 
Yesterday I installed the ZJ fan clutch. Went in fairly easy and I'm happy with the results. The electric fan never even kicks on anymore. I have a question though... is the fan clutch supossed to be locked up all the time? Since I put the new clutch in I don't think it has "unlocked" yet and my jeep is running at about 200 degrees. I've revved it to 3K rpm and it hasnt unlocked. Just wondering if it needs to wear in a bit or if this is normal.
 
the XJ fan will spin all the time as well as the ZJ fan...the difference being the ZJ one spins at 80-90 percent of the pulley speed where the XJ one only spins at 60-70 percent of the pulley speed.
 
The squeal at 2800+ rpm is starting to go away. I think the squeal has moved up closer to 3000 rpm, doesn't last as long, and isn't as loud.
 
[FONT=&quot]I have had the ZJ clutch on for over two months now with a couple thousand miles of street driving and three full days of off-roading.
The clutch does a good job of keeping the XJ running cool and has helped to eliminate most of the hot-soak mis-firing.
In return, the fan is much nosier and the power and mileage are slightly reduced. The fan spins even when it is not needed. The fan always sounds the same; it never speeds up or slows down, unlike the stock clutch.

Since it isn't very difficult to change, I will exchange it with the stock clutch in October, when the summer heat is over. On cool days, the ZJ clutch over-cools the engine, not good for winter driving.[/FONT]
 
I came across this on a search. I have a 1993 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 HO. It called for a #922737 fan clutch. Is what you guys are using also?

Thanks
 
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I wonder what they sound like in a zj?
Do they roar?
or do they have a different pitch and blade?

I was wondering about that too. I can't imagine that anyone would pay $40k+ for a suv and listen to that noise very long. I figured it must the the XJ fan that is causing the noise.
 
I came across this on a search. I have a 1993 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 HO. It called for a #922737 fan clutch. Is what you guys are using also?

Thanks

I think that is the part number of the HD fan clutch that I picked up from Napa, correction 272310 is the part number from NAPA.
 
I wonder what they sound like in a zj?
Do they roar?
or do they have a different pitch and blade?

The fan location, belt arrangement, and probably the pulley ratio / rpm ratio to engine rpm is different on the ZJ. I think the fan is different, but I think the ZJ fan rpm is lower compared to 4.0 engine rpm on the XJ.

I just did a 4.0 swap from an XJ to a ZJ. We had to swap 4.0 water pumps (they were different!!!!), some pulleys and some brackets (AC area) were also different and had to be swapped. I was surprised at some of the differences. Even the condenser and radiator was different, but it was a 4.0/AW4 stock ZJ. Oh and motor mounts were different too, both halves. The frame side looked the same until you tried to use them, then discovered the 0.2" size difference where it matters.
 
the HD fan was for HEAVY DUTY applications like towing, not for the grocery getter set

Do you mean HD clutch? or fan?
 
I just ordered a 272310 from NapaOnline.Com.

Yesterday I installed a CSF 3-row radiator, new Napa water pump, Mr Gasket 4365 high flow 195 degree thermostat with high flow housing. I also installed a B&M 70268 tranny cooler in front of the radiator, centered on the belt-driven fan, replacing the puny stock tranny cooler unit. And a set of Brown Dog motor mounts, the rubber kind, not urethane.

It was 100 degrees + today, and the temp gauge still reads around 210 +/- 5(?) like it did before I did the upgrade. Not really sure what the upgrade bought me.

I would like it to stay at or below 210 when in slow traffic or hill climbing, etc. without the electric fan kicking in. I think the B&M may be slowing down the flow a bit, since the stock tranny cooler was much shorter but wider, and ran along the bottom of the radiator. I'm hoping the HD ZJ fan clutch will help the airflow through the radiator in slower driving conditions.

We'll see how it goes. If it overcools in the winter, I guess I'll have to remedy that when I get there.
 
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try a 180* stat

I just ordered a 272310 from NapaOnline.Com.

Yesterday I installed a CSF 3-row radiator, new Napa water pump, Mr Gasket 4365 high flow 195 degree thermostat with high flow housing. I also installed a B&M 70268 tranny cooler in front of the radiator, centered on the belt-driven fan, replacing the puny stock tranny cooler unit. And a set of Brown Dog motor mounts, the rubber kind, not urethane.

It was 100 degrees + today, and the temp gauge still reads around 210 +/- 5(?) like it did before I did the upgrade. Not really sure what the upgrade bought me.

I would like it to stay at or below 210 when in slow traffic or hill climbing, etc. without the electric fan kicking in. I think the B&M may be slowing down the flow a bit, since the stock tranny cooler was much shorter but wider, and ran along the bottom of the radiator. I'm hoping the HD ZJ fan clutch will help the airflow through the radiator in slower driving conditions.

We'll see how it goes. If it overcools in the winter, I guess I'll have to remedy that when I get there.
 
Bought the torqflo 922737 and the blades made contact with the clutch. Returned it, didn't think about using the washers/spacers first.

Went to Advanced and they gave me an Imperial 215101. They said 215149 will not fit..

Could you guys confirm? Which clutch have you been using with success? I'll continue my research before installing 215101.

I do have a transfer case drop, hope this won't be a problem.

Thanks.
 
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