HD fan clutch upgrade...

Went back to swap it out for the 215149. Fits great. The roar is heard longer..after a short test drive, temps stay just under 210. Before it would pass 210 fast. I do have a decent size tranny cooler in front of it. Will let you know how it goes...
 
You'll hear the fan roaring until approx 3500 RPM, then it will unlock. I rarely go about 2500 so I hear it alot...but when accelerating in a hurry I can hear it unlock.
 
I wonder what they sound like in a zj?
Do they roar?
or do they have a different pitch and blade?

The ZJ fan blade is different. My friend has a 4.0L ZJ. The XJ fan is smaller and has a different pitch to the blades thats why a ZJ clutch is always engaged on an XJ. The XJ fan is easier for the clutch to turn.
 
The ZJ fan blade is different. My friend has a 4.0L ZJ. The XJ fan is smaller and has a different pitch to the blades thats why a ZJ clutch is always engaged on an XJ. The XJ fan is easier for the clutch to turn.

I'd have to agree with that analysis. Just did a 92 XJ 4.0 motor swap to a 95 ZJ, and ran into those differences. His ZJ had a towing package and the clutch was nearly 2" think, BIG Mother, way to big to fit into our XJs.
 
xj88superjeep
Just want to thank you for your work on the part. I'm getting ready to replace my clutch on my '89 and found this thread - looks like I'm off to NAPA for your part number (don't have advanced for the lower price one....)

I may do the dual fan clutch like someone stated above, one for spring summer early fall and the OEM for late fall winter......

Anyways... thanks for your work.
 
I may do the dual fan clutch like someone stated above, one for spring summer early fall and the OEM for late fall winter......
It was I who suggested seasonal switching.
I installed the HD clutch a little over 4 months ago.
I switched back to the stock clutch over the weekend (even though today’s temp is supposed to hit 108)
I make the same 300 mile round trip about once a month. Based on my previous mileage, the HD fan clutch chopped about 2-MPG and the power loss was noticeable at freeway speeds, not to mention the big increase in the noise level.

It was a wonderful experiment and it did cool better, on cool days too much.
[FONT=&quot]With the stock clutch back in place, I now, once again, enjoy a little better mileage, less noise and more available power.
For a trail only rig, the HD clutch works fine. For a DD, the HD clutch is not the ticket YMMV[/FONT]
 
Cool good info thanks.
I use the XJ for DD around town, so gas mileage may not matter that much for me - road trips are for the Windstar or the Taurus - the XJ has been giving me fits with overheating when not in motion lately....

I've worked through most exterior components in the last year, 2 core radiator, aluminum over flow bottle, 16 lb radiator cap on bottle, new hoses, thinking of replacing hoses with copper tubing, removing the heater control valve this or next weekend, and now looking at a new fan clutch - when I ran across this thread.

I figure the HD clutch can't hurt - I plan on a meet and greet this spring (2010) with the Intermountian chapter some where in Utah so I need to get this cooling thing behind me.
 
xj88superjeep
Just want to thank you for your work on the part. I'm getting ready to replace my clutch on my '89 and found this thread - looks like I'm off to NAPA for your part number (don't have advanced for the lower price one....)

I may do the dual fan clutch like someone stated above, one for spring summer early fall and the OEM for late fall winter......

Anyways... thanks for your work.

Hey! You're welcome! I have not seen this thread in ages until a search I just did on something completely irrelevant... But glad to hear you guys are having success with it, and it is true that in the winter the new clutch seemed to be overkill (only luke warm air from the heater, BRRR, and sold the jeep before flushing the heater core to see if that would help, LOL) but in the summer 90-100 degree days, it was exactly what the doctor ordered... I had so much fun tinkering with the old XJ, I will someday buy another 88 vintage to go with my 97. (or to replace the 97 if it keeps acting a fool! LOL)
 
I replaced the 5 blade with the 7 blade. I also did the 180* stat. Mine runs cool! I live in the desert where it gets 116* outside. When it was 105* outside, my digital temp showed 185*! I also did the HD clutch fan. I got it from Kragen auto. It's the Hayden HD fan clutch. All of this makes my jeep 4.0L run cool.

As for MPG. Recent trip showed 17.8!! No complaints.
 
I replaced the 5 blade with the 7 blade. I also did the 180* stat. Mine runs cool! I live in the desert where it gets 116* outside. When it was 105* outside, my digital temp showed 185*! I also did the HD clutch fan. I got it from Kragen auto. It's the Hayden HD fan clutch. All of this makes my jeep 4.0L run cool.

As for MPG. Recent trip showed 17.8!! No complaints.

i believe the correct operating temp is 190-210. i guess 185 is better then overheating, but running "cool" is not a good thing and wears on the internals of the engine.
 
Hot rods run 160* temps. I did some reading. Here is what I came up with. 160* temps on non OBD cars is fine. On OBD I the 180* temps is also fine. One a OBD II the 187* temp (my 2002 and 2004 5.3L this was factory! Not 195*) is fine. Funny how Chevy removed the 195* t-stat and replaced it with a 187* t-stat. Their engineer's must have found something out. IMHO, heat isn't a good thing, thus they changed it.

As for my Jeep it's a 1993 and is a OBD I. It requires it to run above 177* to show it's "warm". So, it's fine. In the desert where I live and it gets 116* in the summer. I am glad I did this mod.
 
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doesn't have anything to do with OBDx and everything to do with emissions

anyway the engine computer wants to see a specific temperature range, so unless you can reprogram the computer you need to stay there for optimal efficiency
 
i believe the correct operating temp is 190-210. i guess 185 is better then overheating, but running "cool" is not a good thing and wears on the internals of the engine.

Sorry, me not buying that one. Lack of Heat does not wear on the internals.

There does seem to be an optimal oil temp, but that varies with local humidity, local temps, and oil type used.
 
doesn't have anything to do with OBDx and everything to do with emissions

anyway the engine computer wants to see a specific temperature range, so unless you can reprogram the computer you need to stay there for optimal efficiency

Respectfully disagree. It's called "open loop". One of us has done their home work ;) I have ran 180* stats for about 10yrs now (been driving for 40yrs!). Always past smog for me. But, then again, I always replace my cats, keep an oil change along with a good tune up.
 
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Sorry, me not buying that one. Lack of Heat does not wear on the internals.

There does seem to be an optimal oil temp, but that varies with local humidity, local temps, and oil type used.

You are correct. Those of us who are old enough to have had a transmission go bad, know, heat is the enemy! Also, thats why some SUV (like mine) have a factory oil cooler. Heat is the enemy also on motors.
 
You are correct. Those of us who are old enough to have had a transmission go bad, know, heat is the enemy! Also, thats why some SUV (like mine) have a factory oil cooler. Heat is the enemy also on motors.

Yep, it is a matter of balancing competing issues or forces, that we optimise to minimize the bad, and maximize the good. At some point, temp wise, too cold lets water build up in the oil, leading to damage to the oil and to the metal. At another extreme the oil and metal is damaged by high temps. The older engines do better with 180 F. The newest OBD-II seem to prefer 190 F. In fact some of the OBD-II hardware kills gas mileage at lower temps, while the Renix is OK at 160 F.

I have noticed that even the Renix gets a little better gas mileage at 220 F than 200 F, or 200 versus 180 F, apparently due to the hotter intake manifold thinning out the air at letting the engine run leaner per stroke at idle and cruise. But I have also confirmed that Renix will go closed loop at 100 F while OBD-II will NOT!

Point #2, is that the answer (optimal temp) does vary with use of dyno oil versus synthetic, and Renix, versus OBD-II controls. One can not make universal cart blanche statements, unless you want to get nailed here by old timers who know better.:scottm:

IIRC, someone a while back confirmed that OBD-II XJs do not like 160 F T-stats, or a lack of a good, minimal CTS temp reading at the ECU in that range of 180 F or higher, IIRC. Seems they stay open loop at much higher temps than renix before going closed loop, but I don't know the exact critical temp, may be in the 96 FSM.
 
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Yep, it is a matter of balancing competing issues or forces, that we optimise to minimize the bad, and maximize the good. At some point, temp wise, too cold lets water build up in the oil, leading to damage to the oil and to the metal. At another extreme the oil and metal is damaged by high temps. The older engines do better with 180 F. The newest OBD-II seem to prefer 190 F. In fact some of the OBD-II hardware kills gas mileage at lower temps, while the Renix is OK at 160 F.

I have noticed that even the Renix gets a little better gas mileage at 220 F than 200 F, or 200 versus 180 F, apparently due to the hotter intake manifold thinning out the air at letting the engine run leaner per stroke at idle and cruise. But I have also confirmed that Renix will go closed loop at 100 F while OBD-II will NOT!

Point #2, is that the answer (optimal temp) does vary with use of dyno oil versus synthetic, and Renix, versus OBD-II controls. One can not make universal cart blanche statements, unless you want to get nailed here by old timers who know better.:scottm:

IIRC, someone a while back confirmed that OBD-II XJs do not like 160 F T-stats, or a lack of a good, minimal CTS temp reading at the ECU in that range of 180 F or higher, IIRC. Seems they stay open loop at much higher temps than renix before going closed loop, but I don't know the exact critical temp, may be in the 96 FSM.

I agree with most of your statement. Being 40yr. I guess I fall into the old timmers.

As for the 190*. That might be why Chevy went with a 187* stat now and not a 195* stat in their 5.3l.

Correct, OBD II doesn't like 160* My Jeep is a OBD I and I run a 180* stat. My Dodge is a OBD II and I run a 180* stat w/out issue or loss in mpg. Jeep get's 17 mpg! on my last check with lift and tires! The Dodge maintaines 29-32mpg. No complaints. Now, the Suburban "OBD II" I ran the stock in it at 187* It was costly to go with the 180* for some reason and wasn't worth the 7* IMHO. Again, I can only speak for what I read, and most important my experience by doing it.

I heard on a OBD I, the temp should be close to 177*. But, when I read on line. Ok. You got me. It was a corvette forum. But, a tech said it was less.

Just a friendly side note. It's funny. When I was a kid so many people removed their tail gate and swore they got better mpg. I even see people lay it down on freeway all the time as of today. Well, I wonder what math they used? Myth Buster actually tried it. Guess what? It showed they actually lost 2mpg! Don't quote me on the actual figure. But, I am close.

I think this is one of those topics, if you have personally done it and like it. Your not having any issues with MPG, CEL, plugs look good, passed smog, etc, etc. Roll with it and have fun.
 
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OBD is "on-board diagnostics". It's an interface for diagnostic equipment to talk to the car computer(s).

Where did you get the idea that the interface protocol was related to coolant temperature???

I am sure you know and are just checking if I know ;) But, the computer used with those determines when it's "open loop".
 
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