Guys on 36s/37s, need some help...

[Gaius]

I bought a front AAM 9.25 for 400.00 locally. Just need to have it shortened.

Here's my post from a local board:

I picked up my front axle for my upcoming build - an AAM 9.25 axle out of a 2005 Dodge 2500 CTD. It has 20k miles on it.

Specs:

Ring Gear Diameter: 9.25
Ring Gear Bolts: 12
Cover Bolts: 12
Carrier Breaks: none
Spline Count: 33
Float: Front
Semi-Float Type:
Pinion Support: False
Axle Lugs: 8

Models:
1 Ton Dodge Pickup: 2002 - 2005 (Front)
3/4 Ton Dodge Pickup: 2003 - 2006 (Front)

~ 71inches WMS to WMS
high pinion drivers drop
Ball joint knuckle, large hub bearing
3.73, 4.10, and 4.56s available from the factory
Can use GM gears up to 5.38s with a ring gear spacer
Available electric locker from the factory
ARB and Eaton E-locker is available
1485 series u-joint (Dana 60 is 1480)
33 spline 1.4 inch inner and outer axle shafts


Sorry about the bad pics. I'll update this post with better as I build it.

Also here's my rear:

And my wheels I got the other night.

 

[Gaius]

jeepnut - I pulled the shafts tonight and measured the tubes: 3/8 inch. Plenty beef.

The shafts:

On the left is a Dana 30 outer. Yeah, they should work.

The long side is the bottom. It looks like I can have the shaft shortened the 4 inches I need to and resplined, if the current seal area is turned down, and a new seal area is machined past the neckdown. I was a little bummed to see the neckdown, but iI hope it's not a big deal if the neckdown is between is between the seal and the solines. I'll have to talk to Dutchman or Jantz about it.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

ROBERTK are you running a 3 link?

Yes / No. :looney:

Started with 2 uppers. Then relized they are a bit too tiangulated, so it would bind some under full dropp and full bump. Then removed the pass upper, and ran it for a while, then ripped the 2" johnny joint snap ring out. Luckily I kept the other side in the parts box in the back, and just put the pass side on and kept wheeling.

Then removed the drivers when I got home and unbolted the mount on the top of the pumpkin.

Now (when time permits) I am going to do a 3" upper Johnny in place of the one in the pictures on the pass side link mount. and run just one upper.

 

[bmyohn]

reading this thread kinda makes me wanna run 36s - 37s on my 30/8.8" with 4.88s, but im not sure if my D30 could hold up

 

[RWKHausSupply]

reading this thread kinda makes me wanna run 36s - 37s on my 30/8.8" with 4.88s, but im not sure if my D30 could hold up

W/ 4.88's I would not run over a 35... Who care about what axles :rof:

 

[bmyohn]

W/ 4.88's I would not run over a 35... Who care about what axles :rof:

too bad the D30 cant go deeper :smsoap:

 

[KSXJ]

too bad the D30 cant go deeper :smsoap:

Don't think that was his point.

 

[Goatman]

reading this thread kinda makes me wanna run 36s - 37s on my 30/8.8" with 4.88s, but im not sure if my D30 could hold up

Which part?

The part that 5.13's are barely adequate for 37's?

Or the part that a totally built D44 front is barely adequate for 37's?

Or the part that an 8.8 with a Super 8.8 kit should handle 37's?


No, you're D30 won't hold up. If you put in chromo shafts and CTM's, and don't break a shaft you'll strip out the ring and pinion. Ask AZRick, he's blown a bunch of D30 gears when he put on the 37's and just installed a D60.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

too bad the D30 cant go deeper :smsoap:

Have you Seen the small arse toothpick sized dana 30 4.88 pinion and the gear end of it! I would be scared even on the 4.88 with a D30.

 

[Goatman]

A low pinion D30 can go much deeper.

 

[Matt98XJ]

That is a weakness, but one that is easily remidied by welding the tubes. Mine isn't even trussed and it's fine after four seasons.

I think 5.13 is as deep as you can go, but I'm not sure. FWIW, with an automatic running 36" tires, I think that would be enough. This from a guy running 34's and 4.88...but with an AX-15. Sometimes I wish I had more, but not on the freeway. It sounds like this will be a DD too, so don't go too deep. I turn close to 3k on the freeway.

-----Matt-----

You can go as low as 6.14 on an 8.8. And 5.38 on a low pinion D30.

 

[ZachMan]

Well I have decided to do it right and go with my gut in the end.

Currie HD front 9" housing with F-450 outers, skided and clearanced with Hi-9 centersection (5.38s with ARB) and SOLID knuckles and high-steer, etc.

Biggest issue is getting custom made 35 spline shafts, Currie wants $1500, screw that. Think 65" width will be nice.

 

[lancey3]

well i'm glad you got it all figured out. 1500 is pretty steep for shafts.

 

[Goatman]

Well I have decided to do it right and go with my gut in the end.

Currie HD front 9" housing with F-450 outers, skided and clearanced with Hi-9 centersection (5.38s with ARB) and SOLID knuckles and high-steer, etc.

Biggest issue is getting custom made 35 spline shafts, Currie wants $1500, screw that. Think 65" width will be nice.

We've just been through all this, as a few west coast guys just built similar axles. I don't know how much the SOLID outers cost, but Tera stuff is stout and easy to work with, and is a good price. Paul S, Dave T, and AZRick all just did 609's with Tera outers, and I have them on my front Tera60CRD. Axles aren't that much, either. I just bought 4340 inners, custom length, from Alloy USA for less than $500, got them through Lincoln. One other way to save a few bucks is to use the Currie HP rather than the TrueHi9. Since it's in the front the Currie HP using the 8.8 gears is strong enough........wouldn't use it in the rear, but it's fine for the front.

Those guys used Spidertrax housings and Tera outers, and that was the most economical way to build a stout 609. The Tera outers use 1/2 ton brakes and Dodge 1 ton unit bearings, and D44 high steer arms. Anyway, something to check out.

Oh, and you'd probably be happier with 63" width.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

We've just been through all this, as a few west coast guys just built similar axles. I don't know how much the SOLID outers cost, but Tera stuff is stout and easy to work with, and is a good price. Paul S, Dave T, and AZRick all just did 609's with Tera outers, and I have them on my front Tera60CRD. Axles aren't that much, either. I just bought 4340 inners, custom length, from Alloy USA for less than $500, got them through Lincoln. One other way to save a few bucks is to use the Currie HP rather than the TrueHi9. Since it's in the front the Currie HP using the 8.8 gears is strong enough........wouldn't use it in the rear, but it's fine for the front.

Those guys used Spidertrax housings and Tera outers, and that was the most economical way to build a stout 609. The Tera outers use 1/2 ton brakes and Dodge 1 ton unit bearings, and D44 high steer arms. Anyway, something to check out.

Oh, and you'd probably be happier with 63" width.

So what is the lowest gear in the HP8.8 (CHP case) that you can get? In the past it was like a 4.88 I though.

And I agree about axles. They shouldnt be all that expensive. Dutchman can set you up for any length and 4340. I got thier imports and were only like 320 delivered in 4 days after ordering My length.

I am a little different in my thinking though. I would rather have a RockJock center section. But thats my disire. There are pro's and cons to both the RJ and the 9". If you compare a completly done currie 609 setup and a RJ with all same inner C's out and lockers, I think the RJ comes outu a little less, and IMO a better form fitting center and stronger pumpkin.

this shows how well its form fitting around the carrier and ring gear and how stout the pumpkin Looks at least.

 

[Goatman]

For me, I wouldn't run a RockJock in the front......don't like the aluminum. Not the way we we bang into rocks regularly. I hit a rock hard enough one time to crack a D44 center section, and I jumped and landed hard enough one time to crack one again. So, no aluminum center sections for me. But, the Ironjock is good and can be a good alternative for someone trying to save a few bucks.

Personally, I like the 609 concept, and if doing it again is probably what I'd do. Can't beat the combination strength, clearance, and weight.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

For me, I wouldn't run a RockJock in the front......don't like the aluminum. Not the way we we bang into rocks regularly. I hit a rock hard enough one time to crack a D44 center section, and I jumped and landed hard enough one time to crack one again. So, no aluminum center sections for me. But, the Ironjock is good and can be a good alternative for someone trying to save a few bucks.

Personally, I like the 609 concept, and if doing it again is probably what I'd do. Can't beat the combination strength, clearance, and weight.

I agree, alum was not what I would ever run either.

I went iron.

I think the total lbs are comparable? Maybe 100 more?

I do like the steel housing though of a 9"! Much easier/cleaner for upper link mounting/welding.