Guys on 36s/37s, need some help...

[mbklmann]

60/9 9 inch center section with 60 outers.

Step up.

 

[ZachMan]

60/9 9 inch center section with 60 outers.

Step up.

I was gonna go Hi9 with a front Currie 9" with F450 outers, but it ends up being well....alot:

Currie front 1-ton 9” housing w/ F450 inner “C”s , high clearance with skid and TJ brackets welded on - $1300
True Hi9 with 5.38s and ARB - $2400
Dynatrac or SOLID outer knuckles - $650ish
35 spline inner and outer shafts - alot for custom made
High-steer arms and DOM and TREs - $600+
Warn hubs -
Brakes (rotors, calipers, etc) -
Spindels -
Anything else -

So I obviously am not sure what it would cost, but I am guessing close to if not over $7k, when this d44 is gonna run $3,600ish.

I won't spend that kinda coin on a rear axle, lol.

 

[ZachMan]

The last rumor I heard, cracker had a rear high pinion 60 with disc brakes, a detroit and 5.13's for sale...

I knew about it awhile back...I plan to have 2 axles for that price. I'd not have an issue saving up a few extra months to go 1-ton, but I just don't think its justified on an XJ, I think an XJ is just fine with 37s....I;d be tepted to run like 40s+ on 1-tons and well thats alooot of work on a unibody.

 

[ktm racer 419]

for what its worth. ive been running a 44 in the back for about 8 months on 37" creepy crawlers. 33 spline ox locker,alloy shafts. and i just recently stripped my ring gear (yukon 5:38's)

60 is going in very soon

overkill > on the edge of breakage

 

[ZachMan]

I would seriously think about the 8.8 with Super 88 kit. I've beat the ever loving crap out of mine, and I broke my HP D44 first. I'm running alloy shafts and I've never had an issue, even with out the Super kit.

A buddy of mine is running the same set up on 35x13.50 Krawlers and also wails on his...he's never broken a 8.8 component at all. I'd say 37" Trxus (what I'm running, but 35's) weigh about as much as 35" Krawlers.

As to other issues you mention, I cannot make my HP D44 clear my TnT LA's. No matter what I try, they still keep hitting the LA's. I'm down three yokes and joints in the front shaft. Just be aware.

I'd think (with an automatic) that 5.13's would be plenty for what you're describing.

-----Matt-----

Crap, so you don't clear a HP d44? I was/am sure there are others running the same setup okay...but I am thinking it took modifications. Hmmm, I might have to ask TNT about this I really don't want to run a different kit and I have had the TNT kit in my garage for forever sitting.

 

[Gaius]

Bulletproof with 37s? Doesn't matter, your front's not going to be.

How much do you want to spend?

A low pinion 9 is a good, cheap option, but the pinion is the lowest of all LP options.

A 60 or 70 would be great, but not sure where to get one that's already 63ish inches wide.

I would go 14 bolt with Dually hubs. It's 63 inches with no modification to the housing or shafts, and can handle 40s with ease. Problem is clearance. You can shave the housing and ring gear to get more clearance than a 60, but that takes work and money. Gear setup is WAY easier than Dana axles, the pinion is higher than the 9inch and Dana offerings, the Detroit is cheaper (lunchbox type), and you can get them for $100.00 at any junk yard on the planet. I got my SRW 14 bolt (67 inches) for $40.00.

 

[ZachMan]

Bulletproof with 37s? Doesn't matter, your front's not going to be.

How much do you want to spend?

A low pinion 9 is a good, cheap option, but the pinion is the lowest of all LP options.

A 60 or 70 would be great, but not sure where to get one that's already 63ish inches wide.

I would go 14 bolt with Dually hubs. It's 63 inches with no modification to the housing or shafts, and can handle 40s with ease. Problem is clearance. You can shave the housing and ring gear to get more clearance than a 60, but that takes work and money. Gear setup is WAY easier than Dana axles, the pinion is higher than the 9inch and Dana offerings, the Detroit is cheaper (lunchbox type), and you can get them for $100.00 at any junk yard on the planet. I got my SRW 14 bolt (67 inches) for $40.00.

Well thats your opinion, the front axle I will have is the same as my buddys who ran 39.5" IROKs for awhile and still is with zero breaks, plus I am not a gas hog like he is.

If it wasn't for "real world" knowledge and seeing what others have done with large tires I would be going Hi9 front and d70u rear....but that would have been off interweb knowledge where you need d60s to run 36s, lol.

I am unsure on the rear, my buddy called and will sell me his 9" thats built, but would need a regear and new gears...I am thinking about it. If I went 1-ton rear it will be d70u over any 14 bolt or d60, its 65" wide, 35 spline FF, slick bottom and higher clearance than a 14 bolt.

 

[Gaius]

Then run a LP 44 rear, if they're good to 39s.

 

[Goatman]

Okay, finally hoping to go to the next phase next year on my Jeep. I have a few questions about my build I'd just like some advice on.

1. I will be running a 64"ish wide HP d44 that will be loaded out, high-steer, chromo everything, OX locker, .500 wall tubes, etc.. My question is whats a good matching rear axle? I was thinking of building an 8.8 with the "super 88" kit and spacers, but now I am leaning towards a d60 or d70u rear axle....just clearance will suffer.

2. I run RE 4.5" (w/ front spacer) and 33s, I plan to just run RE stuff again just taller with TNT LA kit. I am thinking 5.5" coils and my 3/4" spacer (or 7.5" coils and no spacer) and 4.5" leafs with TNT 1" taller u-bolt elims and RE shackle. How much lift are YOU running with 36/37s? I hope to push the front axle forward 3/4" - 1" also and the rear 1" back. I am trimmed with no rear lower 1/4 panels.

3. Do I need to go 5.13s or 5.38s with 37" radials? This Jeep will see every type of driving there is, stop and go, 75 mph hwy and of course trails. I will be wheeling 3 weekends out of 4 a month. I can say 4.56s and small 33s feels great for a DD, while 4.56s and 35s seemed low on grunt for me. I have no issues running 2800 rpms or so at 70mph.

4. Do I need hydro-assist with 37s and being a driver? PSC? redneck?

5. With running true high-steer does anything interfere with the steering besides needing an ontop the axle straight tracbar? swaybar maybe? need to change the pitman arm? I was thinking lift might need to be determind from this too.

You haven't said what terrain you're mainly running, but I assume mud, which isn't as hard on parts as rocks are. You also haven't said what your budget is. Plenty of guys are running 37's on front D44's and as long as they're careful they can last......but they are subject to break. Personally, I've never broken anything on my rig as much as I've broken my HP44 front axle after I went to 37's, but that's all hard wheeling in the rocks.

I think the Super 8.8 isn't a bad idea for the rear. A junk yard D60 will have 30 spline axles and I've seen them break with 37's. If you wanted a 35 spline D60, I'm sure you could build a LP60 for as much as it would cost to build a Super 8.8. I'm with you, the 9" pinion is just too low.......who cares about anything else. I also wouldn't bother with a D44. Sure, it could last awhile, but you'd always be worried about breaking an axle or a ring and pinion. I've seen LP rear D44's break gears (I did with 33's), and I've seen plenty of 30 spline shafts break with 36's and 37's. Since you're building something, I just don't see a D44 as much of an option for 37's. If you like the Super 8.8, it should hold up, just be sure to truss it and weld the tubes. BTW, a D60 has the highest pinion of low pinion axles, and it also has the lowest pinion of HP axles. If you can get someone to shave a LP 60 for you, and narrow the tubes, you can build a shaved LP60 pretty cheap, or even buy a Currie Iron jock.

I run 37's with a lot of trimming and 7.5" of lift, with quite a bit of uptravel. For a full bodied rig I think that is ideal for 37's, wouldn't want it any taller, and you'd have to limit travel or really cut it to be any lower.

Yes, you need at least 5.13's to run 37's, and I agree that you might like the 5.38's better if that is an option with whatever rear end you choose. (how low can you go with an 8.8?) Like you, I ran 4.56's with 33's and it was fine, but I went to 5.13's with 35's, then went to 37's. My 170k Renix motor struggled with the 37's and 5.13's, but then I did a stroker and it pulls it very well.

You'll be happier with hydro assist. If you get an 808 gear box, the bigger bore box, and a real good pump, it will be OK if you know how to keep the stress off the steering by moving slightly, loading the torque converter and keeping the idle up, rocking by modulating the pedal with an automatic, etc. But, the assist works as a very good stabilizer/cushion to the steerng and can help to keep from breaking steering parts.

Nothing special with the high steer arms, other than getting the steering link angles correct and making sure everything clears. Yes, the track bar needs to be high, also. A sway bar is dependent on how your rig handles. With stiffer coils and good shocks it can be OK, but nothing wrong with running a sway bar with the amount of lift you'll likely need.

Good luck with both your health and your build. :cheers:

 

[Gaius]

BTW, a D60 has the highest pinion of low pinion axles, and it also has the lowest pinion of HP axles. If you can get someone to shave a LP 60 for you, and narrow the tubes, you can build a shaved LP60 pretty cheap, or even buy a Currie Iron jock.

I misspoke on this. The Dana 60/70 does have the highest (low) pinion, at 1.5 inches below centerline. I went out and measured my 14B at about 2.5 below. It does, however, have the shortest pinion, but that only helps the short wheel base guys.

The beauty of the 14 bolt and D70 is the beefcake axle for the cheap price. If you are really building nice axle, and have the money to do so, I would get a Solid or Currie HP60.

 

[ZachMan]

I misspoke on this. The Dana 60/70 does have the highest (low) pinion, at 1.5 inches below centerline. I went out and measured my 14B at about 2.5 below. It does, however, have the shortest pinion, but that only helps the short wheel base guys.

The beauty of the 14 bolt and D70 is the beefcake axle for the cheap price. If you are really building nice axle, and have the money to do so, I would get a Solid or Currie HP60.

Yeah I am really stuck on a d70u rear.

I have looked into a SOLID HP d60 and its not too too much about an extra 2 months of saving between a HP D44 and it. ($6500 for SOLID housing, custom length tubes, 35 spline everything, CTMs, OX locker, Ded knuckles (kingpin) high steer, etc..)

I am finding out the extra cash between the d44 or d60 front axle is probably worth it when you think how much you end up spending on everything else if doing it right. I really just think I'd be happy with 36/37s and never look to go larger, but you know how that goes :eyes: :roflmao:

 

[IXNAYXJ]

If you like the Super 8.8, it should hold up, just be sure to truss it and weld the tubes.

That is a weakness, but one that is easily remidied by welding the tubes. Mine isn't even trussed and it's fine after four seasons.

I think 5.13 is as deep as you can go, but I'm not sure. FWIW, with an automatic running 36" tires, I think that would be enough. This from a guy running 34's and 4.88...but with an AX-15. Sometimes I wish I had more, but not on the freeway. It sounds like this will be a DD too, so don't go too deep. I turn close to 3k on the freeway.

-----Matt-----

 

[ZachMan]

You haven't said what terrain you're mainly running, but I assume mud, which isn't as hard on parts as rocks are. You also haven't said what your budget is. Plenty of guys are running 37's on front D44's and as long as they're careful they can last......but they are subject to break. Personally, I've never broken anything on my rig as much as I've broken my HP44 front axle after I went to 37's, but that's all hard wheeling in the rocks.

I think the Super 8.8 isn't a bad idea for the rear. A junk yard D60 will have 30 spline axles and I've seen them break with 37's. If you wanted a 35 spline D60, I'm sure you could build a LP60 for as much as it would cost to build a Super 8.8. I'm with you, the 9" pinion is just too low.......who cares about anything else. I also wouldn't bother with a D44. Sure, it could last awhile, but you'd always be worried about breaking an axle or a ring and pinion. I've seen LP rear D44's break gears (I did with 33's), and I've seen plenty of 30 spline shafts break with 36's and 37's. Since you're building something, I just don't see a D44 as much of an option for 37's. If you like the Super 8.8, it should hold up, just be sure to truss it and weld the tubes. BTW, a D60 has the highest pinion of low pinion axles, and it also has the lowest pinion of HP axles. If you can get someone to shave a LP 60 for you, and narrow the tubes, you can build a shaved LP60 pretty cheap, or even buy a Currie Iron jock.

I run 37's with a lot of trimming and 7.5" of lift, with quite a bit of uptravel. For a full bodied rig I think that is ideal for 37's, wouldn't want it any taller, and you'd have to limit travel or really cut it to be any lower.

Yes, you need at least 5.13's to run 37's, and I agree that you might like the 5.38's better if that is an option with whatever rear end you choose. (how low can you go with an 8.8?) Like you, I ran 4.56's with 33's and it was fine, but I went to 5.13's with 35's, then went to 37's. My 170k Renix motor struggled with the 37's and 5.13's, but then I did a stroker and it pulls it very well.

You'll be happier with hydro assist. If you get an 808 gear box, the bigger bore box, and a real good pump, it will be OK if you know how to keep the stress off the steering by moving slightly, loading the torque converter and keeping the idle up, rocking by modulating the pedal with an automatic, etc. But, the assist works as a very good stabilizer/cushion to the steerng and can help to keep from breaking steering parts.

Nothing special with the high steer arms, other than getting the steering link angles correct and making sure everything clears. Yes, the track bar needs to be high, also. A sway bar is dependent on how your rig handles. With stiffer coils and good shocks it can be OK, but nothing wrong with running a sway bar with the amount of lift you'll likely need.

Good luck with both your health and your build. :cheers:

Thanks Richard,

Unfortunatly I will be in rocks alot, think Tellico. We have alot of mud, rocks, hills, etc. Usually slimy rocks or either very dry when it never rains like now. I am going to finish other things on the Jeep and then decide on the axles lastly....I may just go one tons, but then its likely to see 38s-40s and I am sure thats an entirely new can of worms :rattle:

I am glad you chimed in on my concerns since I know your rig is well built and tested. :wave1:

 

[Goatman]

The list is growing of guys who built front D44's or 9" with 44 outers, and are now building front D60's or 60/9's. If you're running what you say, look seriously at just doing a front 60 from the start. Really, 37's are fine on an XJ, and you don't need chromo shafts and CTM joints with 37's. You'd have a hell of a time breaking alloy 1541 shafts and Spicer D60 joints with 37's, it most likely would never happen, so that could cut the cost down some.

 

[IXNAYXJ]

Crap, so you don't clear a HP d44? I was/am sure there are others running the same setup okay...but I am thinking it took modifications. Hmmm, I might have to ask TNT about this I really don't want to run a different kit and I have had the TNT kit in my garage for forever sitting.

Check out my issues with the set-up...and lack of resolution:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=926319

-----Matt-----

 

[ZachMan]

The list is growing of guys who built front D44's or 9" with 44 outers, and are now building front D60's or 60/9's. If you're running what you say, look seriously at just doing a front 60 from the start. Really, 37's are fine on an XJ, and you don't need chromo shafts and CTM joints with 37's. You'd have a hell of a time breaking alloy 1541 shafts and Spicer D60 joints with 37's, it most likely would never happen, so that could cut the cost down some.

Good point can always add more beef later on..

Really, 37's are fine on an XJ, and you don't need chromo shafts and CTM joints with 37's. You'd have a hell of a time breaking alloy 1541 shafts and Spicer D60 joints with 37's, it most likely would never happen.

That is where I want to be with my rig ^ wheel it hard with no axle failures. There is already alot that can break.

 

[ZachMan]

Check out my issues with the set-up...and lack of resolution:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=926319

-----Matt-----

Thanks, hmmm I know there are other threads on this. I think one guy had his entire exhaust from the header reworked and did a few other things. I e-mailed TNT on this to see what they say.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

IF that is IF you are able to install the ends/inner C's. A rock Jock HPD60 can very alot cheaper then most are aware. Find a buddy with a resale lic. in the auto field and get a center section with tubes pressed in and at what ever length you want for around 600$, depending on if your buddy makes anything off of the order.

Then add what ever you want to it. You have a Great center (D60) very high pinion, and very nice shapped bottom on the center, with skid, yoke, seals, and the front mount holes in the center for a upper control arm, if needed.

Just the route I went. I have about 3K in to my front full rockjock. Chromo Yukon Outer 35 sp, dedenbear inner C's, Dutchman inner custom 35 sp chromo axles, Spicer ujoints, stock ford outer's, brakes, hubs. ARB, 5.38's, and chromo slugs.

Not to mention that with the way the cover is laid way back it helps the clearance under it, as well as infront and above it, and difficult to hit the cover on anything. I have a stock HD cover and yet to hit it even, in mostly rocks.

 

[KSXJ]

ROBERTK are you running a 3 link?

 

[ZachMan]

Dnag wish I could do that...I don't know anyone with hookups like that or any shops that will do that kinda work. Even our "offroad connection" won't cut down axles, err. Only Bluetorch will and well their name = big $$$