Grin's WJ Build Thread

I like those factory XJ braces, I might have to add something like that to my bumpers. Looks simple enough to use and just adds that much more strength to the entire setup.


Good work on the trimming, its pretty subtle. I had to look back at the pic after reading the caption because I didn't notice it right away.

For added strength on those clevis mounts you could drill through the backside of the mounting plate until you hit the clevis itself and then fill that with weld too. That would help make the joining of the clevis and mounting plate more substantial.
 
dutch, I'm not following your suggestion... I'm kinda dense sometimes. Fred, I kinda thought the same thing looking at them (after I mounted them)... several guys over at jeepforum indicating they've been "beaten" in recovery situations, but that may mean they pulled a go-cart round the mall... I think they're more than stout enough for straight on pulls, not sure I'd want to side load them much.
 
think dutch meant:
take plate out.
drill hole thro plate and factory sheetmetal
re-install
weld in hole to connect plate to clevis...i think

but i dunno.... :thumbup:
 
several guys over at jeepforum indicating they've been "beaten" in recovery situations, but that may mean they pulled a go-cart round the mall... I think they're more than stout enough for straight on pulls, not sure I'd want to side load them much.
Any design that relies solely on a weld's shear strength makes me nervous.

A gusset or two might help with the side load, and increase linear inches of weld. Does it seem silly to re-engineer new equipment?

Thanks for sharing the build.
 
it was a good morning... I got the muffler out of the way for the triangulated 4-link (it will be interesting fitting it back in...):
PC300221.jpg


rear frame side mounts located and tacked in place:
PC300223.jpg


hoping to pull the rear axle this afternoon and start to mock up the JK44... but I have to head into the office for a while.:doh:
 
What I meant was take the clevis' back off of your jeep and then drill into them where I circled the pic. After that then plug weld it. That'll give the clevis and its mounting bracket even more weld area to hold them together.

S4CWJ003_parts_LRG.jpg
 
that's what I thought you meant, but then they would never come off again...:dunno:

edit -- gotcha, not weld between my improvised plate and the clevis bracket, weld between the clevis bracket and the clevis mount! There is already a plug weld in there! :thumbup:
 
Cool, then I really don't see much issue with the design as long as they welded them correctly. The gusset idea is a good one, but I imagine it would require a bit of additional trimming of the bumper.
 
depending on what I do for front bumper/armor in the future, they'll either get some custom reinforcement, or replaced with something integrated into the bumper...
 
could gussets be welded on the inside of the brackets the drill them and bolt some braces between the 2 brackets, ?? which would help brace both frame rails and serve a armor ( sort of ) for the trans cooler .
 
but you'll mess up the pretty textured powder coat!... yes, and when I get to working on the front bumper, some sort of armor for the waaay-low radiator brace will definitely be in order...
 
Its cold out there -- freaking 38 in my finished insulated garage!:conceited

That rear axle did NOT want to come out... long cold day. got the fat bitch D44a "HD" (LOL) out, with the A-arm, cause that ball joint was NOT letting go:
PC310225.jpg


JKD44 is under there:
PC310226.jpg


Old rear coils v. new rear coils:
PC310224.jpg


I did manage to get the track bar bracket removed from the JK axle, and one of the frameside lower control arm mounts -- and got one lower control arm hooked up, but its too friggen cold to go shoot a picture. I also figured out that the front axle coil buckets on a WJ axle are about 1.5" taller than the JK version, so my 4" coils are netting 3". Combine that with the Ballistic Fab perches I picked up for the rear being about 1" taller than stock WJ, and we're in for a nice stink bug stance... looks like a 2" poly spacer will be in order for the front, but I'm not ordering until the back end is together and I know exactly how much lift I need to level it out...:twak::cheers:

Happy New Year, ya asshats!
 
Wow, I didn't realise WJ's used a wishbone for the upper links like that. Whats amazing is its just a balljoint holding it all together, and yet people on Pirate will say that a Jonny Joint isn't strong enough to be used on that kind of setup. Go figure.
 
THANKS FRANK Z!!!!! :clap:
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and painted...
P1080243.jpg
 
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