good place in sacto to by copper bolts for exhaust manifold

blondejoncherokee

blondejoncherokee

NAXJA Member
Location
sacramento
gonna do the exhaust manifold gasket soon, and prob some new injectors(used ford 19#) while im at it.
want to replace the bolts was thinking stainless if i cant find copper/brass,
anyone know where to get copper brass 3/8-16-1.25 bolts here in sacto?
i need to buy some copper rv and loctite 272 as well. and gonna hit up picnpull for some ford injectors soon
operation get rid of exhaust leak and get some power back
 
Fastenal should have what you want - get them in silicon bronze. If you can't find a Fastenal, let me know - I still have a set floating around here. The brass threaded rod you need to make new studs (since they're probably shot as well) can be found easily at OSH. Silicon bronze is one of the stronger bronze alloys, as I recall, and they worked well for me.

Last time I got LT272 was at a local MRO house - you may want to check them yourself up there and see what you can find. An MRO house is a supply house for machine shops.

RTV Copper should post no trouble whatever to find - just check the local parts house.
 
a fastenal and an MRO house huh? interesting. i have no idea where an MRO house or a fastenal is in sacto, but ill look. i also saw some 272 on ebay.
i saw the copper at autozone.
 
yah i was gonna check around for brass threaded rod too. ill look into finding the other two places
 
dude...

you're doing it way the hard and expensive way...

easy, shade tree, gets it done way:
take exhaust and intake off.

twist off two bolts.

Vice grip / slot and use a screwdriver bit in the impact to remove broken pieces.

lign up new exhaust header, bolt up exhaust and intake.

go Fawk, I forgot the gasket - take it all apart.

twist off 2 more bolts that felt weird when you tightened it.

repeat vice grips and slotting / shade tree impacting.

go to Acehardware, buy whatever bolts Emigh Ace Hardware has (pronounced Amy - on Watt and El Camino?) - decide to buy all new ones with nice washers to spread the load out.

slap the gasket on there, run whatever hardware store bolts / stock bolt combonation you feel is right, over torque it (because the 25 ft-lb spec ALWAYS lets the header leak - usually takes ~45 ft-lbs to make them seal), and notice a HUGE gain in power -

not because your header flows better, or because you changed the exhaust scavenging effects, but because yor O2 sensor is now reading 6 cylenders instead of 3, and can set the fuel map the right way instead of really rich.





Thank me later.
 
Last edited:
XJ_ranger said:
...
go to Acehardware, buy whatever bolts Emigh Ace Hardware has (pronounced Amy - on Watt and El Camino?)
...
Click to expand...

Howe and Fulton don't even meet! It's Watt and El Camino
biggrin.gif


Damn good selection of fasteners, but if you can't find it there, you could also try Rainbow Fasteners downtown.

Billy
 
Last edited by a moderator:
ill look into rainbow fasteners downtown, i usually use the downtown ace hardware for all my bolts.
im planning on using grade 5 bolts and cut the studs from some rod.
i have a broken stud up front too...
 
yah i love blue collar i go there alot, ive just never seen copper bolts there, but i guess im over the copper bolts....but down the street is S&K steel which i also like to go to.....
 
Pure copper would be too weak for this application, copper alloys are much better. I've used brass and bronze hardware for exhaust for a number of years.

Why? For two primary reasons. 1) Copper and its alloys respond to heat cycles in the opposite manner as iron and its alloys. When iron/steel is heated and allowed to cool slowly, it gets incrementally softer. When Cu/Cu alloy is heated an allowed to cool, it gets incrementally harder. If all you have available is alloy steel, then use SAE5 - it's plenty strong for the application, and the increments of strength lost are much smaller than for SAE8 (SAE8 is much more sensitive to heat-cycling. I've verified this experimentally while in school. It doesn't take long for SAE8 to get weaker than SAE5 in side-by-side heat-cycling...)

2) Cu/Cu alloys won't seize against iron/steel, like iron/steel will. This makes future disassembly much easier (just ask anyone who has ever broken a manifold screw. You won't have to look very hard to find such a person.)

Yes, it costs a bit more - that's why brass/bronze hardware isn't OEM. But, it's worth the extra few cents per fastener to use them (I replace the nuts on exhaust clamp U-bolts with brass, I use brass nuts on collector studs, I make exhaust manifold studs from brass or bronze threaded rod, and I use bronze screws for the manifold proper. Have for years. I'd actually picked up this tip from a boat mechanic - who also used brass/bronze because it won't corrode as readily in marine environments as iron/steel will.)
 
5-90 said:
Pure copper would be too weak for this application, copper alloys are much better. I've used brass and bronze hardware for exhaust for a number of years.

Why? For two primary reasons. 1) Copper and its alloys respond to heat cycles in the opposite manner as iron and its alloys. When iron/steel is heated and allowed to cool slowly, it gets incrementally softer. When Cu/Cu alloy is heated an allowed to cool, it gets incrementally harder. If all you have available is alloy steel, then use SAE5 - it's plenty strong for the application, and the increments of strength lost are much smaller than for SAE8 (SAE8 is much more sensitive to heat-cycling. I've verified this experimentally while in school. It doesn't take long for SAE8 to get weaker than SAE5 in side-by-side heat-cycling...)

2) Cu/Cu alloys won't seize against iron/steel, like iron/steel will. This makes future disassembly much easier (just ask anyone who has ever broken a manifold screw. You won't have to look very hard to find such a person.)

Yes, it costs a bit more - that's why brass/bronze hardware isn't OEM. But, it's worth the extra few cents per fastener to use them (I replace the nuts on exhaust clamp U-bolts with brass, I use brass nuts on collector studs, I make exhaust manifold studs from brass or bronze threaded rod, and I use bronze screws for the manifold proper. Have for years. I'd actually picked up this tip from a boat mechanic - who also used brass/bronze because it won't corrode as readily in marine environments as iron/steel will.)
Click to expand...

Alright... I'm convinced! Where do you get them then?
Billy
 
Mike1331 said:
Here are the sacto folks' most immediate locations:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/locations.ex?action=search&searchType=locations&zip=sacramento&state=CA


Thanks for the advice 5-90, all our jeeps are better for the contributions you've made to this forum.
I'll be going to the rancho location this Saturday along with a pick-n-pull mission since I’ll be close. Anybody care to join?
Click to expand...

Thank you - I'm just trying to help.

I may start offering manifold hardware kits after this - I just need to make sure that the holes are 3/8"-16 all the way up (they probably are, and I've got up to a 0630 head I can verify on.)

I'd love to go on a mandate to Rancho PnP, but I'm out of two things I'd need: 1) Money. 2) Pickup truck. However, any information you can happen to develop on the trip would be appreciated, particularly WRT fastener sizes and suchlike.
 
5-90
Are you asking me to tell you what i find at the rancho PnP? Is there anything in particular you'd like me to keep an eye out for? I don't know what WRT fasteners are.
The Vacaville PnP is closer to you and they have, from what I remember, a better selection of xj’s.

I’ll mainly be searching for the perfect radius arm brackets from a bronco for my bronc, but I always check out the xj’s.

And if you had the brass or bronze bolts available I would have bought a set. At this point I need to bolt this stuff up now, the xj’s been down for too long, it needs to see some dirt.
 
Oldmanxj said:
Need to do mine also. Fastenal is Out of stock in the sacto area. http://www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex?N=999600003+1199893396+1199945088+1199793968&Nty=0

Found these online http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=6&cs=7&cm=5&cd=57
Having not taken the manifold off before, are washers also needed?
Click to expand...

I'm still going to go check the store just in case. I'd like to see the store anyway, i've never been to one.
Yes you need washers, big bowl size washers. There what actually grab onto the inake and exhaust to keep them on as there are no holes in all the middle mounting spots, just rounded out portions for the washer to catch onto.
 
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