Gear installation "tricks"

Check out bicycle supply shops for inch/lb. torque wrenches.
 
Porch951 said:
Lots of good tips!
I haven't found a cheap inch-lb dial torque wrench yet.
Click to expand...

i just use a beam style torque wrench.

its plenty accurate, and I havent had any failures.

ran me about $40. if i did a lot more gear setups i would probably opt for a nice dial unit, but this gets the job done.

31ODcJaylUL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
 
You dont need that 110 dollar pinion setup tool. either do the math from the markings and old shims or just start at what the old depth shims were.

a setup inner pinion race and the carrier setup bearings are a must, a good caliper for measuring shims is a must, a good master bearing kit with plenty of shims is a must. The clamshell tool is pretty hard to do without, even with setup bearings it will change a bit when you finally press all the new stuff on. I have seen durasolid clamshell pullers for around 200 on ebay. the inch lb beam torque wrench is a must. a good pry bar for pulling the carrier out of the case is very helpful. You dont need a case spreader for the dana 30 When you finally go to tap in the last .006 for carrier preload, make sure it is lined up nice and not hitting a lip and getting jammed. A magnet style dial indicator is also a must. You can get a good enough one cheap at harbor freight tools. Take your time. i just did my third regear and I think this time I finally got it all figured out. be patient. Its easy to give up and say .009 backlash will be fine Im tired of pulling the carrier or that gear pattern looks good enough or 10 inch lbs of preload is enough. Take your time and do it right. Having the axle out on saw horses or the like is a HUGE help.

http://www.durasolid.com/differential-part-differential-tools-dbp-dff003-18-6.aspx

KH
 
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whitexj98 said:
I used a tool similar to that and it made it so much easier!
Click to expand...

Really? How close were you to the final depth?

I tried the math approach and it was way off. (old minus new marking and take away from or add to the old shim pack depth.

If it works, the price isnt too bad either.

KH
 
Kevin3151 said:
You dont need that 110 dollar pinion setup tool. either do the math from the markings and old shims or just start at what the old depth shims were.
KH
Click to expand...

I had considered that but i've already messed with the shims on my rear axle, so they're probably not exactly correct any more. I figured i'm saving $500+ by doing the setup myself, so if i have to spend some money on tools it's not a big deal. I'm planning on using:

-Dial indicator (already have a good one)
-Magnetic base (have a good one)

Need to get:
-Pinion depth gauge ($110)
-In-lb torque wrench (< $40)
-Setup bearings

Anything else?
 
The term GRIND seems so out of place when dealing with the .000 measurements in shims & such. Use a brake cylinder hone to make your set-up bearings. It keeps everything concentric.

FNF
 
Kevin3151 said:
Really? How close were you to the final depth?

I tried the math approach and it was way off. (old minus new marking and take away from or add to the old shim pack depth.

If it works, the price isnt too bad either.

KH
Click to expand...

Pinion depth looked spot on after using the tool, I would post some pics but I proceeded to run over my camera shortly after :doh:
 
whitexj98 said:
Pinion depth looked spot on after using the tool, I would post some pics but I proceeded to run over my camera shortly after :doh:
Click to expand...

Interesting. I want one now. I take back my you dont need a pinion depth tool comment. I have only done 3 gear setups so wtf do I know.

I did have fun regearing mine last week.

Relax and enjoy the process. Read read read. bill vistas gear writeup on pirate is great.

Little tips like removing .006 in pinion preload shims and then adding .005 in order to get a .001 change for a 8 inch lb change was part of the fun for me. I can see how experience would make the job much easier. Lots of reading and taking my time really helped.

some tips that come to mind,
Use clean unbent shims, measuring one at a time to get total stack height and write each change you make down so you can look back if you go to far or get confused, lightly lube the bearings so they dont start dry, use marking compound sparingly, make sure you have plenty of drag on the ring gear when you run a pattern, clean the heck out of everything, use shims in place of the baffle behind the inner pinion cup to avoid damaging it during setup, dont forget locktight on bearing cap bolts when done, measure axial runout on the carrier while its in the case with the backlash gauge to make sure its not more than .002 out of true in any spots(laterally). Mine was .001 to .002 in a small area, that is ok, but it can affect pattern and backlash. Make sure cap bolts arent damaged or stretched. I had a stretched one once that broke off in the housing!

I emailed durasolid about their clamshell tool. they said it was around 240 shipped.

KH
 
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Also you really are supposed to have a case spreader for the d44, but you can get away without one on the d30. If you dont have enough carrier preload, the backlash can increase enough under load to put extra stress on the ring gear and break a tooth. Never spread the case more than .015, the carrier will still need to be tapped in and pried out even while spread for it to be correct.

KH
 
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Kevin3151 said:
Also you really are supposed to have a case spreader for the d44, but you can get away without one on the d30.
Click to expand...

No not really. I installed my HP44 gears almost 3 years ago without a spreader, a bunch of us NAC guys installed moparmaniac's HP44 gears 2 years ago without a spreader, nothing blew up, no problems. I know RCman set up two more D44 axles for another member just fine. I redid all the bearings in my rear 44 last year, once again, no spreader is necessary.
 
i have never used a case spreader. i just tap the carrier in with a mallet a few times.
 
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