front leaf springs on an XJ

Pretty interesting... and it sucks for that guy.

What the hell was the point of this thread again?

Oh yea... leaf springs. Significant design points of my own front leaf suspension were actually stole from this impressive design:
springs.jpg
 
HTeK said:
Pretty interesting... and it sucks for that guy.

What the hell was the point of this thread again?

Oh yea... leaf springs. Significant design points of my own front leaf suspension were actually stole from this impressive design:
springs.jpg

Woah... thats like crazy.... thats some crazy new technology, you should get a patent on that asap :)
 
They can work, and they're easier and cheaper to use when changing out the front axle...

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On a XJ they will take some reinforcement of the LCA mount. Up front, better use a stout front bumper set-up, or a fabbed cross-member, and fab up some beefed up frame rails with steering box brace. You'll also need to go with high-steer. Cost for me when I finish with redneck ram, high-steer 1 tons etc, and the lift springs, and front fabwork about $1000. So, if your having it done, will cost more than a bought lift and install. If your swapping out axles and need to weld link brackets and coils will be more. That's why I went this route with the Waggy front D-44.

Drives great on the road, with no sway bars and some Rancho adj shocks. Quiet, compared to all the clinking of the link points vs leaves. I'm using ProComp 4" YJ leaves up front. I'm running 38x14.50 TSL SX's. Ride is soft an confident in the SOA.
 
I have had different lifts on MJ's and XJ's. Driving on the road and the trail. Tomken 6" to rubicon express. I am running leaf springs now and haven't looked back. Much better ride, much more stable in an emergency situation..... sure a long arm kit will have a little more travel, but I'll sacrifice travel for being able to side hill.

Leaf conversions are simple, easy.... and work. Saying that you could get sued.... yep you could. You could also get sued for having a home made bumper that tore some honda's roof off. My only advice is if you don't know what you are doing, have a proffesional do it.
 
HTeK said:
....Significant design points of my own front leaf suspension were actually stole from this impressive design:
springs.jpg

I'm seriously considering a transverse rear leaf spring for my MJ when/if I tube it out.
 
What advantage would that give you/

Ok I have been debating this for a while and reading this leaf might be how I want to go. I have about 4.5 inch of lift. Would stock grand waggy leafs SOA on a dana 44 give me about the same lift or what should I use?

Andrew
 
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Should be around 7 inches of lift. Waggy springs are not a bad idea. I went with 3.5 wrangler springs from BDS. Mill wrapped, life time waranty... very happy with the results!
 
xrayjeeper83 said:
What advantage would that give you?...

#1 - less weight
#2 - since I will be tubing the back half of the frame this will allow me not to have overhanging rear shackles and leafs behind the axle
#3 - will maintain the resistance to droop that stock leafs offer (although less), i dont like the way that rear coils/coilovers/airshocks unload so easily. (yes it'll have a 4link to locate the axle)
#4 - better flex than a pair of leafs because your pivot point will be at the center of the axle where there is less axle movement during flex
#5 - maybe a decent ride with the proper spring rate and a good sway bar & stiff shock valving (this is the unknown as there aren't many out there)

it'll be kindof an experiment, if it doesn't work maybe i'll do airbags instead...
 
I used 4" Procomp YJ leaves, give about 9 to 10"es of lift
 
95steel said:
I have had different lifts on MJ's and XJ's. Driving on the road and the trail. Tomken 6" to rubicon express. I am running leaf springs now and haven't looked back. Much better ride, much more stable in an emergency situation..... sure a long arm kit will have a little more travel, but I'll sacrifice travel for being able to side hill.

I guess you've never heard of roll center, then.
 
people stop looking to deep who cares about what you think about laws today. Can this be done ? is there a kit you can buy ? is this guy gonna Have to fab the whole front suspension. that is all he has basically asked thats all, thats it.
 
No kit, fab the front, use the rear LCA mounts to bolt up YJ leaves. Will need to reinforce the XJ LCA's, MJ's already reinforced.
When you fab, you can use a fabbed crossmember, or if you have an aftermarket bumper, you can add some mounts for the shackles and front springs. I used Confer lift shackles for a YJ. Really help it flex. We used a YJ main leaf eye cut off with about 3"es of the spring attatched. This is welded and bolted to the fabbed bumper.

I used a Waggoneer Front D-44, which has a trac bar. We used the MJ trac bar, shortened and sleeved it to fit. The steering is an altered Waggy set-up.
We also bumped the front axle up about 2"es (my MJ is a 121" WB), so I ended up lengthenning the front D-shaft, and used an internal sleeve press fit, then welded. Stock MJ front d-shaft was used.


Excuse the steering for now. It works, but am about to do the high steer. I have some bump steer right now, and some play inbetween steering left to right. Not too bad, but after driving my friend's with the Drag OTK, ready to get the steering done right. With the 38's, you'll put some major stress on the steering. My frame is boxed on the driver's side, and the steering box is bolted on with grade 8's. I'll add a box brace soon too. I sheered the factory bolts (all three), and put a small crack in the rail on the trip before reinforcing.

I can't take any credit for this set-up, other than being there and lending a hand during the build. My friend came up with this idea, and has it down to a science. He is an experienced wheeler, welder, and a factory Jeep mechanic. Definately get someone to do this that has experience.

The ride with leaves is fantastic. And, I've driven my 'ol now sold XJ with a high dollar Tereflex, Rubicon (with DB's) lift for many years before the MJ. I Love the MJ better than i did the XJ!
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2.5" yj springs let my 36's rub so if your going to run 35's go ahead and put the 4" yj springs on. I took my 4" springs off to try the 2.5" but wound up putting the 4" back on.

I didnt reinforce my lca mounts...drilled through them about 1.5" behind the lca mount hole IIRC...went through 2 layers of metal...never had a problem with fatigue that I saw. Used a tractor 3rd link for a quick disconnect track bar...helped the steering on the street.

we used stock waggy springs on a mj later...it cleared 35's and flexxed nicely.
 
I had to move them. Not much, but removed old mounts, and welded new on. My friend bolted everything together before welding spring perches, literally drove the Jeep straight forward, and back a couple of times, and welded the perches. The pinion angles are perfect. Even with the front hubs locked in, with a lengthened unbalanced d-shaft, and a lock-rite, the front is pretty smooth. With the hubs locked out, smooth as silk. No drive-line vibes.

we also had to make a shock mount for the axle. I used quarter angle, drilled two holes to bolt the u-bolt for the springs, bolted it up. Drilled hole to mount shock with bushings and a bolt.
 
vetteboy said:
I guess you've never heard of roll center, then.


Yes I have. This is not my first jeep, not my first leaf sprung jeep either. I had a tj with a long arm kit (home made)... believe me I have spent hours on the four link calculator. I am talking lift kits bolted in with factory R&D compared to what I have now. My rig is twice a stable with leaf springs.

People will always argue about what is better.... I know what works for me, that is the only thing I care about. Do what works for you.
 
Id like to see some one do a frame notch like I did for my upper links, but use it for Shackle in back leaf spring setup..

If I was shackle in back I probably would still be running leafs.

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ashmanjeepxj said:
Id like to see some one do a frame notch like I did for my upper links, but use it for Shackle in back leaf spring setup..


Okay, where were you two months ago when I did my front leafs? I thought about doing that, but didn't... I was having a hard enough time finding any quality pictures of people's rear hangers as it was. It could solve a lot of problems though. Right now the truck sits about 3" too tall, and the spring angle is kinda weird. If I link the rear I'll definatly take the time to notch it out like that.


Then I won't have bloody 8" of lift with 37s.


It's that or I just buck the cab off the unibody and fix it the way I wanted too...
 
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