Fooling the Computer for Better MPG

Working at Dealer my whole life, you really get to see all the crazy crap people try to do. I can definitely say that in 25 years I have not seen anyone take a manufactured vehicles that is running as designed and increase the fuel economy. I have heard the claims and I think people talk themselves into thinking its better, or they just fixed the reason it was getting poor fuel economy. Whenever a customer shows us some great device or mod and proceeds to tell us how he gets 4-5 MPG better, I love to do a real fuel economy test and compare. Not that it couldn't happen, but it never seems to be what were told. Now with that said, Manufactures do make strategy errors in the PCM's and those can be fixed, and are normally repaired while the vehicle is still under warranty. How many fuel line magnets are sold every year?
 
This is an easy argument to settle! The drastic improvement in mileage between the new 07 Wrangler and its modern overhead cam 3.8L V6. and an older TJ with 4.0 push rod old technology I6 would seem to prove the 4.0 haters point...

2007 4WD Manual Trans 3.8L V6:
15/19 MPG EPA rating

Versus an average 90's TJ 4.0 4WD Manual trans:
15/19 MPG EPA rating

Oppp! :huh:WTF?

Okay wait a sec, maybe the TJ unlimited effects the EPA rating like the JK unlimited probably does... So the LJ was introduced in 04:

04 TJ 4WD Manual trans
14/18 MPG EPA rating

http://www.fueleconomy.gov

Wow isn't the 3.8 supposed to be a much more modern clean efficient engine? Doesn't the JK 2 door wiegh slightly LESS than a TJ? It's WAY more aerodynamic that's for sure, oitherwise how do you explain that awful slant to the grill..

You know if the 4.0 is just an inherently inefficient engine there are all sorts of other tell tale signs one could look for...

Poor power output
A reputation for short life span (cylinder washing from incomplete combustion)
A well known history of bad carbon buildup
A tendency to go through catalytic converters
Common plug fouling problems
Easy (and commonly done) power upgrades with ignition system mods

Yeah, but 1bolt none of the above are even remotely true you say...

Exactly.
 
your getting pretty wound up over this thread ain't ya? Sound like you are really upset...

Maybe you have some medicine around the house to take that will make you feel better...

so take it easy...have a good weekend working on your jeep or wheelin, or whatever you do...
 
1bolt said:
Seriously are you purposfully being obtuse because you don't want to recognize that this goofy discussion was a waste of time? Because it was attempting to "invent" something that already exists? I know I know they are for "performance" and that scares you because it doesn't say "for fuel economy"... :doh:

(its Apexi with an I)


I hate to repeat myself but if you need a fuel management system that has big bright colorful "improves fuel economy" stickers on it, you're best off not playing with things that can blow your "must be reliable" daily driver up. hasta

Do you really not get that any one of these can lean the air/fuel mixture? That's what you wanted right? Or no?

Now you say you want a 50 state legal CARB certified device all of a sudden? Where the heck did you pull that out off? You guys are talking about soldering f***king resistors into the o2 circuit a few pages back!? Is that going to be Carb certified????

It's like talking to a wall, fuel management can lean your mixture... period end of story :party:

Oh yeah and before I lose it, Mike the EPA did not invent stoichiometry
stoichiometric combustion is *the theoretical ideal air fuel ratio at which the most complete combustion is made* (this is not necessarilly the most miles per gallon) that's what stoichiometric means; it has absolutely dick all to do with the EPA. Now please stop reading whatever wacko web site you got that EPA lunacy from.

I am beginning to think that some, not all, but some, of our discussion on this tread (you and I), IS a waste of time (you asked). Unfortunately I love a good argument and debate, so stick another nickel in me, please! :cheers:

I do not think the original thread was or is a waste of time. If it is a waste a time, it's my time to waist, :rolleyes:. Frankly I don't think I am being obtuse at all, in fact I think I was being quite "transparent" (LOL). Don't know where you got the idea that it scares me, the only thing that scares me is G. Bush and the Patriot act :us:, but that's getting off topic.

The point you seemed to have missed is that we were discussing a simple, minor cost modification (under $1) to fine tune the A/F ratio during closed loop operation, by biasing the O2 signal towards the rich side thus forcing the ECU to compensate and forcing it to run the A/F ratio a little leaner. The justification being that some O2 sensors seem to be running leaner and others richer right off the shelf and right out of the box, meaning they are not as precise as we thought they were, or something else is going on like bad grounds on the O2 sensor, which I also mentioned! At no time did we ask for a $500 to $1000 complete system replacement for A/F management!

One obvious conclusion from this thread is the possible need for better calibration of O2 sensors with a standard and the advantages of adding a wide band sensor if for no other reason than to verify what the primary O2 sensor (narrow band) is really doing.

One item you suggested, A temperature sensor in the exhaust while experimenting makes a lot of good sense (One I am already aware of). It even makes sense for a stock OEM package to have one to catch problems before they kill the engine.

I am not afraid of experiments, I just have too many already under way and don't have time (yet) to play with this one. I actually have 3 US and 2 international patents on some of my experiments that worked! In fact the US NAVY has already bought one of them. If you'r ever in Houston, drop by my shop and I will show you what real experimentation looks like. Perhaps it is you who are afraid of trying a simple experiment like the one proposed on here, or do you want your A/F control system FIX in a ready to use box?

I have looked at some of the ads and products you have mentioned, but what I see in SOME of them (not all just some) is marketing fluff ads, and no real substantive details in their ads, as to what the product does or how it does it. I call them black boxes. Also the cost of most of them is prohibitive considering the possible ROI, or lack thereof. I don't buy black boxes, but I do build them and sell them!

Regarding this question:

"Now you say you want a 50 state legal CARB certified device all of a sudden? Where the heck did you pull that out off? You guys are talking about soldering f***king resistors into the o2 circuit a few pages back!? Is that going to be Carb certified????"

It is a lot easier to hide a simple variable resistor on the dash that looks like a sound system add on, that disapears into the typical Medusa wiring harness that simply fine tunes a biased O2 sensor than it is to rip out all the wiring under the hood and dash and start over with an entirely new ECU, PCM, wiring harness and package of new sensors and then hope you can come up with the right operating tables for the new ECU/PCM database to run with and then hope it will sneak past the emissions inspectors and past all the tests. Oh, and soldering is not required, just crimp fittings.:rolleyes:

Another issue that just occured to me is the XJ's have 2 computers that work together. The TCU would probably severely miss the companion ECU/PCM and the little chat they carry out while the power train is running.

Frankly I would install a wide band O2 sensor with a dash meter, and the variable resistor on the existing narrow band O2 sensor and just for safety a temperature probe (RTD or thermocouple) in the down pipe of the exhaust off of the exhaust manifold to monitor exhaust temperature and leave the rest alone. If it ain't broke don't fix it (meaning the rest of the FUEL MANAGEMENT SYSTEM).

Lastly, I would probably beef up the cooling system with like a 5 row radiator, a much larger water pump, and so on, as I once owner a Chrysler (Dodge) lean burn 400 cu. in., 4 brl. carb, Dodge Charger. 1976. Took about an 18 lb cap just to keep the cap on the radiator in the winter!
 
By all means waste your time as you please :)

I'm done waisting my own time trying to tell you a safe effective way to do what you were talking about...

I wish you luck though just the same. Report back with your findings if you ever do actually experiment.
 
1bolt said:
By all means waste your time as you please :)

I'm done waisting my own time trying to tell you a safe effective way to do what you were talking about...

I wish you luck though just the same. Report back with your findings if you ever do actually experiment.

I wouldn't go so far as to say you were waisting your time, after all some one(s) will read this thread and follow your post(s) and buy some of those prefabed A/FM systems, and some will be happy with them too. I am just one of those real hard core, cheap ass, doityerselfers that likes to do it with a $0.10 resistor and cry all the way to the bank. $$$$$$ Been doing it that way for 35 years now. I realized years ago that
resistance is futile!
:laugh::rof:

But to answer one of your questions, the reason FOR reinventing the wheel, is to save money. Why pay $500 for a black box that is nothing more than a $1.00 variable resistor in disguise?

Of course, I do like to share these when I figure them out, so yes, as allways I will post my results. Right now I am buzy mounting my new diesel TinyTach (TM) tach on my Nissan diesel engine transplant in my 85 XJ. In this case it was cheaper to buy the black box, LOL!!!!:rof::eyes:
 
I don't think this is a waste of time. Debate can inspire a lot. Those guys over at Apexi (the I is silent) put out some really cool engine management toys. Most of their stuff is more than a "variable resistor in disguise" and are either pre-programmed or are programmable w/laptop. Most of those 1000+ hp ricers run either an Apexi or AEM piece.
 
kujito said:
I don't think this is a waste of time. Debate can inspire a lot. Those guys over at Apexi (the I is silent) put out some really cool engine management toys. Most of their stuff is more than a "variable resistor in disguise" and are either pre-programmed or are programmable w/laptop. Most of those 1000+ hp ricers run either an Apexi or AEM piece.

Actually it was one of the other guys, not Apexi, that 1bolt mentioned that I was alluding to as probably having a resistor in the black box. Apexi looks to be one of the more experienced, more modern choices for sure.

Yes, there is a lot of good, exotic stuff out there for the newer OBD-II systems for instance, some of it ready to use, or nearly ready to use, but so far no one has offered a ready to use programed or programable tweaker for the older Renix ECUs that I know of, partly because no one knows the old code. I do beleive there is a lot of potential in adding a wide band O2 sensor and monitor as close as possible to the existing narow band O2 sensor and then using a laptop with data aquisition one could collect and store the data from both sensors taking into account any sensor time delay between the 2 sensors, then start tweaking the narrow band sensor circuit with a variable resistor to calibrate an narrow band O2 sensor that has some bias (if it does), or to force the ECU to run the car a bit leaner under certain driving conditions that could be selected with a toggle switch (on/off).

One of these days I am going to call the head O2 sensor engineer at Bosch again and get the inside scoop on how accurate or biased these off the shelf O2 sensors are or can be. I know there are tolerances and variations in the accuracy of all sensors, from sensor to sensor and from batch to batch, and from manufacturer to manufacturer. It would not take much bias in the sensor output to make a car start running richer than the old sensor, which is the thesis that started this thread!
 
Ecomike said:
One of these days I am going to call the head O2 sensor engineer at Bosch again and get the inside scoop on how accurate or biased these off the shelf O2 sensors are or can be. I know there are tolerances and variations in the accuracy of all sensors, from sensor to sensor and from batch to batch, and from manufacturer to manufacturer. It would not take much bias in the sensor output to make a car start running richer than the old sensor, which is the thesis that started this thread!

This is why I subscribed to this "waste of time" thread. I'm into RENIX tweaks, such a basic sys. with so many unknowns
 
hollyxj said:
I've heard this before and based on the numerous threads of ppl complaining about mpg this is an extremely rare bird. I have my reservations as to the validity that an xj could get 25 mpg but if you say so, so be it.

in my reality numbers are around 17-18 which coincides with epa estimates (http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/calculatorCompareSideBySide.jsp?column=1&id=14742)

here's picture proof. i've posted this a few times before. it was on a ~350 mile trip that wasn't flat at all

062907_22071.jpg
 
kennzz05 said:
THE SEMI I DRIVE GETS 50+ MPG ON A SMALL DOWNGRADE AT 60 MPH WITH 80,000 LBS SO YOUR POINT IS...



..

Dude, you need to shift to neutral and cut the engine on those grades, then MPGs approaches infinity, LOL!:roflmao:Only problem is you might need engine vacuum for brakes or power steering, etc.....so cutting off the engine might produce undesirable results.:o :eyes:
 
Ecomike said:
Dude, you need to shift to neutral and cut the engine on those grades, then MPGs approaches infinity, LOL!:roflmao:Only problem is you might need engine vacuum for brakes or power steering, etc.....so cutting off the engine might produce undesirable results.:o :eyes:
Im not sure if its the same with diesels/semi's, but at least out jeeps turn off the fuel injectors under certain conditions when the the rpm is over say 1300rpm and almost no throttle position so cruising down from 65mph on the highway the fuel injectors turn off. Leave it in gear and no need to turn off engine.
 
Regarding stoiciometery, I thought I would try and reply to this, although I am not sure exactly where this came from.

1bolt, you said:

"Oh yeah and before I lose it, Mike the EPA did not invent stoichiometry
stoichiometric combustion is *the theoretical ideal air fuel ratio at which the most complete combustion is made* (this is not necessarilly the most miles per gallon) that's what stoichiometric means; it has absolutely dick all to do with the EPA. Now please stop reading whatever wacko web site you got that EPA lunacy from."

Quote:
Originally Posted by FordGuy
I have seen so many people think they can figure out a better way to increase fuel economy, they never work, they will tell you it helped, but they are kidding themselves. Gas engines are most effect with a fuel ratio of 14:7 to 1, and that is what a electronically controlled vehicle accomplishes. so if your vehicle is operating as designed, why do so many people waste there money? Wishful thinking!

Previously posted by Ecomike:

"14.7:1 was not selected to optimize fuel efficiency, it was selected by EPA to minimize air pollution and waste just enough fuel to supply the needs of the catalytic converters. The cat converters need fuel to burn, in order for them to get hot enough to convert trace, excess CO to CO2, etc......

Also, from what I have read the exhaust valves and timing are set to open early enough to leak just enough O2 and fuel into the exhaust to supply the thermal needs of the Cat converters. That early opening slows and delays the completion of the combustion process."

My reply:

For gasoline engines, A/F ratio stoichiometery is somewhat of an oxymoron, since the moles of oxygen needed to oxidize a "mole of gasoline" (another oxymoron as there is no such thing as a mole of gasoline), have no precise meaning since the gasolines we all buy and use have variable quantities, and a variety of different hydrocarbons with different mass densitities and different molecular structures.

The EPA regulation driven / O2 sensor target A/F ratio is 14.7:1

and they (EPA) specifically define Stoichiometric as:

"Term most often used to describe the ideal air/fuel mixture entering the intake. The point at which the production of emissions is at a minimum and catalyst conversion of emissions is most efficient. The stoichiometric air/fuel ratio is 14.7 to 1, measured in parts by weight."

Taken from:

http://www.epa.gov/otaq/epg/keyterm.htm#stoichio


It says nothing about true scientific "Stoichiometry"

EPA loves to redefine scientific terms to meet their own needs. If you don't believe me read CFR 40 on the definition of a "Solid Waste". EPA redifines the word solid, specifically it is: "Any liquid, solid, or containerized gaseous material.....

Here ares some very interesting links on some of this!

The stoichiometry of automotive fuels can vary from as low as 6/1 A/F (air fuel ratio) to as high as 15/1 A/F (air fuel ratio). Because of this variation ...Many pump gases have varying amounts of Ethanol added and therefore varying Stoichiometry. Ethanol has a stoichiometry of 9 to 1. If you mix 10% ethanol (8.9/1) with 90% gasoline (14.7/1) you get fuel that has a stoichiometry of about 14.1 to 1...... When you run fuel with 10% ethanol and you do not enrichen the A/F ratio your motor will be leaner compared to fuel without Ethanol. The difference from 14.1/1 to 12.6/1 is lean enough to cause motor damage over a period time....Ethanol, in pump gas, can vary from 0%-15%). To determine the amount of Ethanol or alcohols in the gas a water test can be performed.

Quoted from:

www.scca-enterprises.com/updates/FSCCATechnicalbullitinfuels.doc

For gasoline, the stoichiometric ratio is about 14.7:1, meaning that for each pound of gasoline, 14.7 pounds of air will be burned. The fuel mixture ...
auto.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter1.htm


"
  • Reducing emissions: Keeping the air-fuel mixture near the stoichometric ratio of 14.7:1 (for gasoline engines) allows the catalytic converter to operate at maximum efficiency.
  • Fuel economy: An air-fuel mixture leaner than the stoichometric ratio will result in near optimum fuel mileage, costing less per mile traveled and producing the least amount of CO2 emissions.
  • However, from the factory, cars are designed to operate at the stoichometric ratio (rather than as lean as possible while remaining driveable) in order to maximize the efficiency and life of the catalytic converter. While it may be possible to run smoothly at mixtures leaner than the stoichimetric ratio, manufacturers must focus on emissions and especially catalytic converter life (which must now be 100,000 miles on new vehicles) {fact} as a higher priority due to U.S. EPA regulations."
Quoted From:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_fuel_ratio_meter

Now, I think I see another area where you and I differ(ed) on this stoichiometric issue. The true scientific meaning of stoichiometric is a balanced amount of 2 reactants that when they react completely, they leave no excess of either reactant.

It says up above that running at a higher ratio than 14/7:1 will lower the CO2 emmisions, this tells me that it is consuming less fuel when run leaner, and therefore 14.7:1 is not a true stoicimetric ratio in the true scientific meaning of the word. But, keep in mind that the cat converter also consumes fuel. So if all the fuel is not consumed in the engine first, then the cat converter is completing that task, with no incease in power or mileage. Also keep in mind that the O2 sensor must sense some excess, unused oxygen across the range from rich to lean, meaning there is still unused oxygen even under rich fuel conditions.

Conclusion? The version of the word Stoichiometric that we use in the automotive industry is not the same as the scientific definition. In fact it seems to be a rather nebulous use of the word.

In other words, I think the word stoichiometric in this case has become somewhat distorted in its use in the automotive and EPA circles. Therefore 14.7:1 is not a real, true stochiometric ratio, but some average value arrived at by EPA and automotive engineers over the last 40 years.

Personally, at this point I think it is a targeted mass (in lbs) ratio of the two (air to gasoline) that has been determined over the years to be the best ratio compromise for the varying demands, including EPA emissions, and Cat Converter requirements, put on automotive engines.
 
Last edited:
luke85 said:
i found this chip on ebay that says it gives 65+hp 20+mpg
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230231820301&rd=1
could someone look at this and tell me if it really works. i read his feedback and people say it is just a resistor. do you think this would actually work. also do you think it could hurt my engine

Intersting. Mostly BS on his ad. I checked his feedback, looks like he has been posting 1000s of auctions recently, and his feedback (400) all looks to be less than 30 days old (?), so doing the math he is selling a $0.10 resistor (several people have posted this fact) and shipping it with $0.41 postage in an envelope and getting $16 each out of the deal. Multiply that by 13,000 auctions he has posted right now, and if he gets in and out before they catch him, he makes a nice tidy profit in just a few weeks, :party:

before too many engines are damaged by his resistor "Chip" and the real hell breaks loose!

I would like to know what the resistance value is that he is using. I think he got the year wrong in his ad, as 1990 is the last Renix year, and it uses an entirely different O2 sensor, so the location and resistor would not be the same between 90 and 91.

His claims for MPG and power are pure BS. Note how carefully he worded his claims. +25 mpg does not say increased by 25 mpg, it just means over 25 mpg net, and the same for + 65HP, just means you can get over 65 hp, hell the 4.0 already gets something like 170 hp IIRC, so 65 hp is nothing.
 
One more reference to add on the stoich topic:

Catalytic converters need a stoichiometric air/fuel ratio of approximately 14.7:1 to obtain the greatest emissions reductions. Vehicle engineers designed closed-loop engine control systems to maintain that ratio, adjusting injector pulse width based on information from die oxygen sensor and other inputs.

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200609/ai_n17191947

It also has some cool insight into OBD-II fuel trim data!!!
 
Greatest emissions reductions? What about net emissions? Cause I know it's not at all uncommon for newer vehicles to run at 16-17:1 on the verge of detonation lol...
 
Ecomike said:
One more reference to add on the stoich topic:

Catalytic converters need a stoichiometric air/fuel ratio of approximately 14.7:1 to obtain the greatest emissions reductions. Vehicle engineers designed closed-loop engine control systems to maintain that ratio, adjusting injector pulse width based on information from die oxygen sensor and other inputs.

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200609/ai_n17191947

It also has some cool insight into OBD-II fuel trim data!!!

Thanks for the link. How can we look at the fuel trim tables? I have a scangaugeII.
 
srimes said:
Thanks for the link. How can we look at the fuel trim tables? I have a scangaugeII.

The scanner I bought only shows the last fuel trim values that existed when a DTC code, like a missfire is thrown. So it takes a better, more expensive scaner than what I bought to get continuous fuel trim data, but now that we know what it is and what it does, and how to use it, we know better what specs to look for in a scanner tool. I just wish I had known it 3 months ago.:twak::smsoap:
 
Back
Top