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another idle question

PNWOLYXJ

NAXJA Forum User
ok, bought a 97 XJ in an auction. She had 77K on the speedo. Initially, she was a rough start. She had a code for crank position sensor and one oxygen sensor. I changed the crank position sensor and both oxygen sensors. I also put new plugs, wires, cap and rotor in.

She doesn't hesitate to start now, she starts right up (small win). However, for the first week, everytime i started her, she would choke a little until she felt like she backfired (without the noise) and then she runs fine. Even when warm, i can shut her off and restart her and she goes through this cough process again... then all is normal (no relation to cold or hot). This morning, I had the same issue combined with a new issue, a high idle that wouldn't drop below 2K until she did her usual cough (which took longer today), and then driving was normal again.

I cleaned the throttle body, put cleaner in the tank and I still seem to have the issue. No CEL since replacing O2 and crank sensor (WTF). After reading everyone's other idle problem posts, i'm thinking faulty vacuum, iac or fuel pump pressure issues. If this was the case, wouldn't the CEL light up? if so, it kind of places my focus on the fuel pump or vacuum... trying to place my focus where it makes the most sense and no code is really throwing me off, anybody ever see this? Where should I go from here? all experiences and wisdom shared is appreciated!
 
NTK or genuine Jeep O2 sensor, and NOT Bosch or parts store brand generic?

Test the new parts and confirm they are within specification. New Chinesium parts are always suspect.

Test or replace the Coolant Temperature Sensor. Test fuel pressure.

Vacuum, IAC, and fuel pressure issues will likely not trigger the CEL.

As suggested clean the IAC. Symptoms do not suggest any vacuum issues.
 
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If the CPS is also not NTK or Mopar, I wouldn't trust it as far as I could throw it even if new. An Autozone one in a friend's '98 lasted all of one week.

If it were fuel pressure, you may be able to test by turning the key to run for about 5 seconds then back to off off, do it back and forth a few times to allow the pump to build pressure. If after 3-5 cycles you go to start and the issue goes away it would be worth chasing down a pressure issue.

That usually presents as an extended length crank though, not a backfire.

Not that I suspect them but you may want to clean/gap/replace the plugs, cap, & rotor as a matter of course.
 
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