Flushed coolant, still a click above 210?

[erykv1]

hey Ecomike,

When you used the block tester, did you go from the radiator, or is using the coolant overflow ok?

 

[Ecomike]

hey Ecomike,

When you used the block tester, did you go from the radiator, or is using the coolant overflow ok?

I have 2 testers, one is pressure tester to see if the cooling system holds pressure and I use it at the radiator neck. I hear there are adapters for the pressure coolant bottle like Renix has, but have not acquired one yet.

I also have the gas vapor bubbler rig (Block tester?) that gas from the radiator neck or coolant bottle (which ever the rig has) is bubbled through that uses a color change fluid to test for CO2-exhaust gasses in the coolant to verify/test for a bad head gasket leaking exhaust gas into the coolant.

 

[erykv1]

I was referring to the color changing tester. I have both a radiator neck and a coolant bottle.

I ran the test at the overflow bottle since there was too much coolant in the radiator neck. Fluid stayed blue and did not turn yellow.

However I'm reading that the test should have been done at the radiator neck instead.

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[Ecomike]

hey Ecomike,

When you used the block tester, did you go from the radiator, or is using the coolant overflow ok?

Reread your question, the answer is you must use it from the Radiator opening, or if there is none, like renix, from the coolant pressure bottle. The overflow bottle will not work. Make sure that coolant does not get into the tester and tester fluid. Might need to drain some from the radiator first. Also if the seal point is at the outer rim of the radiator opening, seal off the overflow hose with a clamp during the test to force gases only though the tester.

 

[Ecomike]

I was referring to the color changing tester. I have both a radiator neck and a coolant bottle.

I ran the test at the overflow bottle since there was too much coolant in the radiator neck. Fluid stayed blue and did not turn yellow.

However I'm reading that the test should have been done at the radiator neck instead.

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

Yes at the radiator neck. All gas must pass through the tester with no other gas source able to get in from outside.

You will need to drain some coolant at the radiator petcock, or a hose. Coolant needs to stay well below the radiator inner neck when hot and fully expanded!!!

 

[erykv1]

Yes at the radiator neck. All gas must pass through the tester with no other gas source able to get in from outside.

You will need to drain some coolant at the radiator petcock, or a hose. Coolant needs to stay well below the radiator inner neck when hot and fully expanded!!!

Got it. Thanks! I guess I will drain some coolant and redo the test. I figured since the overflow was attached to the neck it was ok for testing if the car was hot.

Just didn't seem like the tester would fit into the neck even if I drained.

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[Digger87xj]

Make sure you have enough room for the coolant to expand when it gets hot. All you want to sample is the vapors from the radiator. Coolant in the tester will foil the fluid, and you will have to clean the tester and try again.

 

[blakews2217]

I have a stroker motor 4.0 and the stock rad. It's kinda a Frankenstein motor. The 258 crank and the good head in a 98 block with descent pistons and a mild can. Built to be street able. What I did was to fight the thing going more lean. I'm using the stock 00' electronics so it's tuned really lean from the factory. When I got that with the bigger motor and stock injectors I had to swap injectors. What I gat them from was Lincoln's look a like of a crown Vic. They flow better and from what I've found the more lean it runs the hotter it runs. This was just s plug n play deal. Not mods made to fuel rail, manifold, or wiring. I only over heated once the other day when I was brush clearing with my buddy and I was driving through tall (taller than the hood) grass. It got half way to 260 then I shut it down. It boiled the gas in the fuel rail and made it hard to restart when we were done but when it was running I got out on the road and had the ac on and it ran dead on 210 all the way home. Just my experience.


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[erykv1]

Make sure you have enough room for the coolant to expand when it gets hot. All you want to sample is the vapors from the radiator. Coolant in the tester will foil the fluid, and you will have to clean the tester and try again.

Thanks. Lets hope the drain **** works on this radiator, LOL.

I have a stroker motor 4.0 and the stock rad. It's kinda a Frankenstein motor. The 258 crank and the good head in a 98 block with descent pistons and a mild can. Built to be street able. What I did was to fight the thing going more lean. I'm using the stock 00' electronics so it's tuned really lean from the factory. When I got that with the bigger motor and stock injectors I had to swap injectors. What I gat them from was Lincoln's look a like of a crown Vic. They flow better and from what I've found the more lean it runs the hotter it runs. This was just s plug n play deal. Not mods made to fuel rail, manifold, or wiring. I only over heated once the other day when I was brush clearing with my buddy and I was driving through tall (taller than the hood) grass. It got half way to 260 then I shut it down. It boiled the gas in the fuel rail and made it hard to restart when we were done but when it was running I got out on the road and had the ac on and it ran dead on 210 all the way home. Just my experience.


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Thanks for the input. I have upgraded 4-hole injectors as well but I dont think it is the answer to my problems unfortunately.

 

[blakews2217]

Thanks. Lets hope the drain **** works on this radiator, LOL.







Thanks for the input. I have upgraded 4-hole injectors as well but I dont think it is the answer to my problems unfortunately.

Like I said I did it for the issue of leaning out. The cooler running seemed to be a side effect


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[erykv1]

Ok just to update and close out this thread.

After ruling out the cracked head by pulling the valve cover off. I went ahead and replaced the radiator again and thermostat for good measure. This time I drilled 2 tiny holes into the t-stat to allow for easier bleeding.

Jeep seems to run right around 210, maybe 215 which is slightly hotter but ambient temps have been near 100* around here which is pretty high. Definitely hasn't seen a full click over 210 on the gauge cluster so I'm pleased.

Thank you all for your input and help over the past few weeks

 

[Loaded Gloves]

what radiator did you end up going with?

 

[alexgalexg]

You may need a new radiator. But you may want to be sure the thermostat is not bad. It may be defective