Flushed coolant, still a click above 210?

[Ecomike]

I agree w/ this 100%, the compensating part.
After you swap in a new rad, install a 180 thermostat.
You need a adjustable electric fan too.
33's w/ 3.55's on a questionable engine, hmmmm
IMO, of course.

Unfortunately there are times when one must compensate for problems that defy location, or that are caused by other modifications that are not oem.

OEM is not always that great. The OEM Renix cooling system had some design flaws that HO generation fixed in 1991

 

[Transpoquick]

Also... don't be scared of plastic tank radiators. Their track record is the same as or better than the all metal/brass. Old schoolers don't like them because they are not rebuildable but, it's hard to find a shop to even do the metal tank rads any more and you end up replacing the unit anyway.

I like this too.
I'm starting to feel like ecomike.
Yo

 

[Transpoquick]

My post count isn't going up though?
What's up wiff this?

 

[Transpoquick]

Oh, there we go.

 

[RedHeep]

I agree w/ this 100%, the compensating part.
After you swap in a new rad, install a 180 thermostat.
You need a adjustable electric fan too.
33's w/ 3.55's on a questionable engine, hmmmm
IMO, of course.

Lots of good information in this thread:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1122475

Take a look at a few people telling him to get rid of an e-fan setup, go back to a stock fan clutch, buy a HD Mopar radiator, put in a good radiator cap, do some pressure testing, a few desert racers making suggestions.

I'm not trying to get in an argument with you, what you're suggesting has been done, redone and thrown away by a lot of folks who've owned a lot of XJ's over the years.

 

[balrog429]

As someone who had electrical fans I can tell that the best decision I made, with respect to the cooling system, was to go back to the stock system. I added the bigger fan clutch and a Mopar HD radiator. Here in the summer, like today, the temps are usually about 105. Today it'll be 109.

 

[Ecomike]

Lots of good information in this thread:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1122475

Take a look at a few people telling him to get rid of an e-fan setup, go back to a stock fan clutch, buy a HD Mopar radiator, put in a good radiator cap, do some pressure testing, a few desert racers making suggestions.

I'm not trying to get in an argument with you, what you're suggesting has been done, redone and thrown away by a lot of folks who've owned a lot of XJ's over the years.

It is possible that some 180 F T-stats allow a higher flow rate that a 192 or 195 F t-Stat. I have seen visible differences in the throat area, the annulus of various 160 F, 180 F and 195 F T-stats.

Some were experimenting here 10 years ago with a fixed orifice, open all the time. I still run 180 F, T-Stats in both my Renix Jeeps, 87 & 89 and my 81 diesel/85 XJ frankenjeep, have been for 10-15 years, but if I lived up north (LOL, cold day in hell will that happen) I might run 220 F T-stats as my heater cores need descaling from the PO's abuse

Do us a favor folks!!!! When reporting your cooling system performance, please tell us the year and mods you might have, cooling mods and gearing, tires and peak temps, do you use AC etc. The entire system is important!!!!

 

[Ecomike]

buy a HD Mopar radiator

My only problem there, is the Mopar HD on later years seems to be plastic and aluminum. Not sure anyone makes an all copper/brass radiator for HO rigs now, maybe CSF? And I refuse to ever use plastic and aluminum again.

I am convinced 95% of jeep overheating problems is not bad radiators, unless they are also using plastic and aluminum China junk, or have let other abuse clog the radiators in weeks like I mentioned from scale in the block and heater cores that moves from the block to new radiator Like a plating bath, electrolysis and electroless plating.

Most overheating problems are caused by 20 other issues. The one that drove me and dozens of other experts crazy here 10 years ago, that even 3 muffler shops said was not there was an exhaust leak blowing on the block under high loads, a bad reused donut in the Ex-manifold to ex-pipe seal area could not be detected at idle in the muffler shops. I found it the hard way.

 

[RedHeep]

Virtually every car on the road today has a plastic tank/aluminum core radiator.

You and I are just trying to help the OP solve his problem. We just need to make sure we don't preach our way as the best way based on our own limited experiences.

I had a exhaust leak just like yours that had nothing at all to do with overheating the jeep. Strange stuff happens but it can be just as much the exception as it can be the rule.

 

[Ecomike]

Virtually every car on the road today has a plastic tank/aluminum core radiator.

You and I are just trying to help the OP solve his problem. We just need to make sure we don't preach our way as the best way based on our own limited experiences.

I had a exhaust leak just like yours that had nothing at all to do with overheating the jeep. Strange stuff happens but it can be just as much the exception as it can be the rule.

My exhaust leak was blowing right at the oil pan, 1/2" away from the flange, 87 Wagoneer. The flow rate and exhaust temps peaked on the freeway at 60 mph..... and would peak the oil temp another 20 F just when I pulled off the freeway from 210 to >230 F in 60 seconds. Replacing that $1 exhaust seal donut fixed the 3 year battle with overheating for 8 years that nothing else fixed. All the other items helped and kept it from boiling over, the ZJ clutch helped about 5 degrees, the new radiator (OP radiator had nearly zero flow) got me past the 5 minute boil over at idle problem from a cold start, the CSF 3 row radiator, all brass dropped the average temps by about 30 F and I had to replace the 160 F, T-stat with a 180 F for the winter time....It would have been much worse had the O2 sensor been good, and when I replaced the O2 sensor, it boosted the temps about 20 F....last fix was the end of the entire ordeal, a $1 exhaust donut. When I had the earlier problems I figured out how to modify the plastic renix tanks that were dying in 6 months or less, the one I modified is now about 6-7 years old.

8 years later, last year, my son's ford Taurus was dumping oil (like 1/2 quart in 1 minute) on the driveway out of the tranny bellhousing, only after a 30 mile drive at 70 mph. Every one said the RMS was bad.

BUT!!!! It could sit in the driveway for an hour at idle with the AC on at 90 F outside and not leak a drop.

I figured that one out, when no one else did, it had an exhaust leak blowing on the oil filter 3/4" away from the oil filter, but the exhaust did not leak at idle, only while in gear......All 3 engine and transmissions mounts were bad and it allowed the exhaust pipe and manifold flange to move just enough to leak while in gear at high speeds (and not at idle) to superheat and thin the oil to 280-300 F!!!!! I figured that one out with an infrared temperature gauge. Replaced the 3 mounts, engine and Tranny, and the problem has not returned in 12 months.

 

[Ecomike]

Virtually every car on the road today has a plastic tank/aluminum core radiator.

You and I are just trying to help the OP solve his problem. We just need to make sure we don't preach our way as the best way based on our own limited experiences.

I had a exhaust leak just like yours that had nothing at all to do with overheating the jeep. Strange stuff happens but it can be just as much the exception as it can be the rule.

My first two cars, were brand new and both had huge issues that required aftermarket help, not OEM junk parts to fix them. I have rarely found OEM solutions and parts to be needed to fix my junk in 45 years, unless they were the sole source. I recently caved in on a belt tensioner for my Saturn and went OEM. A first for me.

My second car was a Dodge Charger SE brand new, 400 CuIn, 4 barrel, lean burn, smoked the valve seals the first 6 months. It ran hot, too hot since the day I bought it. I learned how to modify vehicles to improve cooling on that POS for 4 years till it was paid off and I could dump it. It ran so hot it burned up the transmission 7 times in 4 years. Times magazine called me one day asking for permission to use my 7 page letter to my US congressman, and the local BBB, Chrysler, the dealership and so for an article on the need for lemon laws. One year later congress passed the lemon law.

 

[Transpoquick]

You's, gotta get onboard w/ the electric fan thing.
People have problems wiring them up.
Probe in the fins, water jacket, sheez what do I do?
Should I use the ground signal from the vehicle or make my own?, fan 1, fan 2?
Awhh wtf?
180 thermostat works good, unless you live in Canada.

 

[erykv1]

welp... I appreciate everyones time and input. I went and poked around some more today (jeeps been parked)

Poked through the oil cap, no milky residue. I honestly haven't noticed any loss of coolant either... BUT, I believe what we have here is another cracked 0331

Could I get another set of eyes on this?

 

[Digger87xj]

Looks suspect. pressure check the cooling system.

Next head needs to be a TUPY if you're going to stick with the 0331.

 

[erykv1]

Looks suspect. pressure check the cooling system.

Next head needs to be a TUPY if you're going to stick with the 0331.

Looks like either TUPY or a clearwater head. Kinda hard to find a reman TUPY, and I don't really have time to go to the yard to pull one. Leaning towards the clearwater option.

 

[Digger87xj]

My first two cars, were brand new and both had huge issues that required aftermarket help, not OEM junk parts to fix them. I have rarely found OEM solutions and parts to be needed to fix my junk in 45 years, unless they were the sole source. I recently caved in on a belt tensioner for my Saturn and went OEM. A first for me.

My second car was a Dodge Charger SE brand new, 400 CuIn, 4 barrel, lean burn, smoked the valve seals the first 6 months. It ran hot, too hot since the day I bought it. I learned how to modify vehicles to improve cooling on that POS for 4 years till it was paid off and I could dump it. It ran so hot it burned up the transmission 7 times in 4 years. Times magazine called me one day asking for permission to use my 7 page letter to my US congressman, and the local BBB, Chrysler, the dealership and so for an article on the need for lemon laws. One year later congress passed the lemon law.

Sorry to hear you've had such bad luck. That has not been my experience in the 30 years I've been a professional wrench... Sure there are, what we like to call "Monday" cars out there but for the most part, most are good.

My current daily driver, a 99 xj with 245k still has the original radiator, as far as I can tell.

For the last 5 years I've been in partnership with a used car lot, and am repairing his cars for resale. 99.9% are over 100k miles and nearly all have original factory parts.

YMMV

 

[Ecomike]

GM ignition switches, Toyota air bags for starters?

 

[Ecomike]

Sorry to hear you've had such bad luck. That has not been my experience in the 30 years I've been a professional wrench... Sure there are, what we like to call "Monday" cars out there but for the most part, most are good.

My current daily driver, a 99 xj with 245k still has the original radiator, as far as I can tell.

For the last 5 years I've been in partnership with a used car lot, and am repairing his cars for resale. 99.9% are over 100k miles and nearly all have original factory parts.

YMMV

And one of the things on my son's Ford Taurus, 96 that has had issues, especialy the cooling system, is not the radiator, pretty sure it is OEM (but not sure), close to 300,000 miles after 2 blown head gaskets and cracked heads from OEM radiator hoses that had a defect and plastic pressure bottles that died too fast (sudden) and damaged the heads once and the head gaskets once, with out damaging the radiator.

The Saturn is on its 4th radiator, first 2 were OEM. Never ever had any problems with any other part on the 270,000 mile Saturn SL1, except a slow leak in the pump shaft seal at about 240,000 miles, and bad e-motor bearings on the E-fan every 50,000 miles . I will say the after market auto-belt tensions for the Saturn are ALL 100% crap, the OEM part is the only one that holds up, but $168-oem versus $27-aftermarket for the part is hard to swallow until you get tired of replacing the hard to reach part. The Saturn has been until this year (Just wearing out all at once now) the most reliable, indestructible car I have ever seen.

 

[Digger87xj]

funny... Saturns are one of the junkiest cars we see come through the shop... those and Cadillacs.

 

[Ecomike]

funny... Saturns are one of the junkiest cars we see come through the shop... those and Cadillacs.

I hear the Saturn Vues (SUV version) were bad...The 89 Renix we have has been toughest vehicles we have had. Just need to know the little easy to fix quarks LOL