Flushed coolant, still a click above 210?

[Ecomike]

I was under the impression that the system had to be looped by the heater core as blocking it off would cause problems on an 01?



http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/block-tester/oem-block-tester/391378_0_0/

Is this the block tester you are referring to? Seems like I can rent one locally at an Autozone.

Thank you all for the input.

Yes on the tester (rental is free, with a refundable deposit), but you also need to buy the test fluid below

http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...k-tester-test-fluid/391381/?_requestid=488838

That may be an issue too, and if so what you could is put in a restricted flow orifice or glow valve and throttle the flow rate down, A simple 3/8" or 1/4" pipe nipple choke pint in the loop would solve both issues and approximate the flow through the heater core.

BUT!!!! Isn't the heat core coolant flow blocked off in summer time like on the older jeeps (like my Renix with a valve) or do they use damper doors in the newer ones to keep the heater core from roasting passengers in the summer?

My renix rigs are closed off in the summer, OEM valving.

 

[Ecomike]

BUT!!!!!! There is loop via the closed system coolant bottle on the Renix jeeps, so there is year round loop there on the Renix jeeps. But IIRC, their is a 1/4" ID (3/8" OD) pipe choke point, not a 1/2" continuous loop. It helps get gas/air out from under the T-Stat and into the bottle during coolant refills after maintenance.

 

[RedHeep]

Thermostat opening earlier thing is kinda "thin" too.
I guess all those people out there that bought diagnostic tuners to turn there fans on sooner in their "vehicles" and install 160 thermostats even, don't know what there doing.
Built to run at 195, Bwah.
This is like a "what kind of oil should I run post"

I bet your dodge Cummins truck gets 60 mpg too.

 

[Transpoquick]

I bet your dodge Cummins truck gets 60 mpg too.

Says u:yap:

 

[Digger87xj]

the heater control valve simply creates a loop-back to by-pass the heater core. There's no flow restriction. Any flow restriction the heater core causes is minimal and not influential on engine cooling.

 

[gradon]

Don't waste your time on the Champion Alu radiators. I bought the "American Eagle" 2-row with bigger cores than the stock Champion and it leaked in less than a year where the rows meet the end tanks. I ponyed up the $60 to send it back to Cali and the replacement failed the same way in less time.


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[Ben824]

Don't waste your time on the Champion Alu radiators. I bought the "American Eagle" 2-row with bigger cores than the stock Champion and it leaked in less than a year where the rows meet the end tanks. I ponyed up the $60 to send it back to Cali and the replacement failed the same way in less time.


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I have to second this! I went through 5 Champion Radiators before they said they would not send me anymore and gave me my money back. Champion admitted they come out of china. I ordered 3 more cheap ebay Aluminum radiators, don't ask me why I thought that that was a good idea, and they were all IDENTICAL to the Champion radiators and they all leaked. Every single one of them would fracture where the tubes met the tanks. So to recap I went through 8 radiators in 4 years.

 

[Ecomike]

I went through 2-3 plastic tank with brass core XJ radiators and I am on the 3rd one on a 2001 Saturn that is stock that way. Never had a CSF true 3 core radiator, all 100% brass fail yet in 12 years.

Funny that the 96 Ford Taurus that has blown a hose and plastic bottle that took out the heads once and the head gasket the second time have yet to cause any problems with the FORD, Fix Or Repair Daily RADIATOR (my be a 96 OEM radiator?). It is the only thing that never broke on it in 300,000 miles. I suspect it must be pre-plastic tank BS?

 

[erykv1]

the heater control valve simply creates a loop-back to by-pass the heater core. There's no flow restriction. Any flow restriction the heater core causes is minimal and not influential on engine cooling.

Good to know, thank you.

Don't waste your time on the Champion Alu radiators. I bought the "American Eagle" 2-row with bigger cores than the stock Champion and it leaked in less than a year where the rows meet the end tanks. I ponyed up the $60 to send it back to Cali and the replacement failed the same way in less time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have to second this! I went through 5 Champion Radiators before they said they would not send me anymore and gave me my money back. Champion admitted they come out of china. I ordered 3 more cheap ebay Aluminum radiators, don't ask me why I thought that that was a good idea, and they were all IDENTICAL to the Champion radiators and they all leaked. Every single one of them would fracture where the tubes met the tanks. So to recap I went through 8 radiators in 4 years.

I went through 2-3 plastic tank with brass core XJ radiators and I am on the 3rd one on a 2001 Saturn that is stock that way. Never had a CSF true 3 core radiator, all 100% brass fail yet in 12 years.

Funny that the 96 Ford Taurus that has blown a hose and plastic bottle that took out the heads once and the head gasket the second time have yet to cause any problems with the FORD, Fix Or Repair Daily RADIATOR (my be a 96 OEM radiator?). It is the only thing that never broke on it in 300,000 miles. I suspect it must be pre-plastic tank BS?

From what I read... CSF / Champion / AE all iffy, what should I go with then? lol.

Haven't had the chance to rent the block tester yet, but I took a peek in the overflow and I didn't see anything oily this time. I've read reviews on the block tester and it seems like its not as accurate as a leakdown or something.

 

[Rod Knee]

From what I read... CSF / Champion / AE all iffy, what should I go with then? lol.

.

good question....I'd be interested ion some suggestions too. Mopar (?)

 

[Digger87xj]

Mopar HD. Ignore the year restrictions they show. It will fit and it will do its job well. Yep, it's more expensive than the others but when you realize that most XJ OEM radiators lasted 100k miles or more, the price is cheap.

 

[Ecomike]

From what I read... CSF / Champion / AE all iffy, what should I go with then? lol.

Haven't had the chance to rent the block tester yet, but I took a peek in the overflow and I didn't see anything oily this time. I've read reviews on the block tester and it seems like its not as accurate as a leakdown or something.

The block tester is far more sensitive to leaks, especially head gasket leaks than any other tester. Leakdown tests for leaks other than just head gasket leaks, like a burned valve or bad rings....

A small head gasket leak of only CO2 will not show up in the coolant visual inspection. Use the block tester before you risk another radiator.

 

[Ecomike]

From what I read... CSF / Champion / AE all iffy, what should I go with then? lol.

I see a two row and a three row, the 3 row says it will not fit your jeep in the top side Amazon scan, but the seller says it will.

3 row CSF:

http://www.amazon.com/CSF-98-01-Jee..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=07GB2N3ASX7C0K2RN0V8

I would call and ask them if it is a true 3 row, or 2 wide rows with the width of two row (that is how they cheat and lie and call a 2 row a 3 row, and it is hard to detect the difference. But this one is nearly 2 inches thick and the 2 row aluminum one CFS is selling on Amazon now for your year jeep is barely over 1" thick (1-5/16" thick). Also ask if it still all brass ("all metal" claim means nothing!!!!)

 

[md21722]

I have driven my 01 XJ through the desert in CA/AZ in July without any issues. I've driven past miles of signs advising to turn off A/C and many 55 gallon barrels of "radiator water" on grades. Sitting in traffic with the A/C on it would raise a tick or maybe two.

If you need a bigger radiator than stock then you're compensating for another problem.

 

[erykv1]

After doing some more digging, it seems like the MOPAR HD radiator is recommended.

Part number 52080104AC, priced around $300. Steep, but I will get it as long as I dont have to worry about cooling in a while. However I'm getting mixed reports on if it is a single or dual row.

 

[Digger87xj]

Most likely it will be one single wide row. That's the way of radiators any more and by my experience, makes little difference in cooling efficiency.
Look at it this way.. the one wide row is less likely to clog than 2 or 3 small tubes.

 

[Digger87xj]

Also... don't be scared of plastic tank radiators. Their track record is the same as or better than the all metal/brass. Old schoolers don't like them because they are not rebuildable but, it's hard to find a shop to even do the metal tank rads any more and you end up replacing the unit anyway.

 

[Ecomike]

Most likely it will be one single wide row. That's the way of radiators any more and by my experience, makes little difference in cooling efficiency.
Look at it this way.. the one wide row is less likely to clog than 2 or 3 small tubes.

Width as you all call it has little to do with the clogability of the tubes (1/2" versus 3/4"). The height of the tube ID, which seems to be paper thin the last 20 years, is far easier to clog than 40 years ago, it is the paper thin height that is the clogging issue. I have gotten about 35%-50% more cooling out of a 3 row CSF than a 2 row CFS, because the overall core width of the three row is about 50-60% more than the width of the 2 row.

 

[Transpoquick]

I have driven my 01 XJ through the desert in CA/AZ in July without any issues. I've driven past miles of signs advising to turn off A/C and many 55 gallon barrels of "radiator water" on grades. Sitting in traffic with the A/C on it would raise a tick or maybe two.

If you need a bigger radiator than stock then you're compensating for another problem.

I agree w/ this 100%, the compensating part.
After you swap in a new rad, install a 180 thermostat.
You need a adjustable electric fan too.
33's w/ 3.55's on a questionable engine, hmmmm
IMO, of course.

 

[Ecomike]

Also... don't be scared of plastic tank radiators. Their track record is the same as or better than the all metal/brass. Old schoolers don't like them because they are not rebuildable but, it's hard to find a shop to even do the metal tank rads any more and you end up replacing the unit anyway.

I disagree, I have never gotten more than 3 years out of any plastic tank radiators (not just on jeeps), average live 1.5 years, while I have yet to have a true 3 row (not the marketing BS 2 row that they call a 3 row at the major parts houses now) CSF radiator all brass, fail even once in 12 years.

Just because every one else is ridding junk these days does not mean I have to, that is why I still have vehicles (jeeps) spanning 1981-1989 that I drive.