- Location
- Denver, CO
Any updates?
First cage build
- Thread starter OutkastBoss
- Start date
Hey guys the cage build is going great, I wanted to check in and share a bit. When it's done I will post in more detail and pics on my build thread that I will be updating soon.
We did end up using .120 wall on everything with the exception of the halo and A-pillars being .188 wall
The C and D floor plates have keyed pieces of plate through them and welded to the frame stiffeners. The B Pillar plate has a large bolt that ends up inside the tube that sandwiches the metal (its still welded) to a thick piece of U channel cut at an angle for clearance that spans from the frame stiffener to the 2x6 rockers. With the A-pillars tied into the 2x6 and forward to the front bumper it should be pretty solid!
We got all the pillars in but will be waiting on seats and harnesses to finish the shoulder bars and internal triangulation. Most of which will be at the C pillar, we decided we will compromise a bit for passengers with the B pillar triangulation.
Really it is a family rig on 4" and 33's (Locked/Locked) so we don't get into anything too nasty. I'd say we run the upper end of mediums or lower end of hard trails and medium rock gardens. We also do scenic type wheeling where rollovers are rare. Despite that we have almost rolled once and had 2 "partial flops" where we needed pulled back on all fours.
Here is the top front it was put together with being able to change the windshield in mind. It will have plates where it passes through the roof and a round trim piece from underneath where it passes through the headliner
This last part I am still a little undecided on. I originally wanted this tube to run inside of my fender to keep the clean look we wanted. With the previously done fender flares, their supports, and some inner fender clearancing to stuff tires better. They are welded and bolted in more than a couple places. All of that made running through the fender very difficult so we made a couple of slight bends to keep our tube as tight as possible instead. I think it adds more protection and if we ever (I hope not) flop or roll it would protect that "XJ shape" I wanted to keep. They really don't seem to affect visibility much at all and I think will grow on me.
It does make painting it a little more confusing. I was going to do a semi gloss black cage and body match the front tube. But that was when it was going to disappear into the header panel. I definitely don't want to look down the hood and see black bars down the corners. So either I will body match the cage outside and do black inside to match the interior. Or more likely I will body match the bumper tie in but still do from the A pillar back in black.
Thanksfor the comments, pics and place to have this for reference later!
Wonder what's stronger HREW tube used on the main pillars with no bends or DOM with a big bend in every vertical pillar. Often on websites that folks do not think DOM is seamless they will say design is more important than material ...Not being a douche just pointing out you used the better material , but then handicapped it with design .
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- Location
- San Diego
Would one be in insinuating that I have NOT confused with AM ...lol
ftwelder
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rockinham, Vermont
the harness bars and triangulation will go a long ways. Looks good
OutkastBoss
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Saint louis
We added even more plate armor to the Jeep and repainted the whole thing in preparation for the final fitting of the cage for full welding and paint. Then all of the exterior and main pillar tubes were welded and painted. That is about as far as I got cage-wise anyways.
I was going to share more and pics but it has been a tough few weeks. My phone lost all my info and pics (twice). So I lost the pics for my build thread and my latest progress. Our daughter was attacked by dogs as well so progress was set back with all the craziness right now. We did get it together enough that we will be able to make it to WinterFest so we will be getting some good pics of where it's at now.
I really have no interest in your negativity or musings about Hrew any more. As far as my design, it was designed how I wanted it for reasons I decided based on research and input from many people and forums. Like I said it is a family cage and some compromises were made for cargo and passenger space.
The tubes make room for a family sized amount of cargo and passenger space while allowing space to remove the plastics in case of wiring issues. In the MANY other cages I looked at in my research, quite a few had more, or steeper bends. With supporting tubes adding triangulation no comments were made about structural concerns requiring straight pillars.(which are fugly btw)
Thanks, I can't wait to get cracking on the interior tubes. But first WinterFest!
- Location
- Denver, CO
I'm sorry to hear about the stuff you are going through but am definitely looking forward to seeing the updated pics!! :thumbup:
- Location
- REDLANDS, CA. (SoCal)
I'm building mine out of pool noodles; killing two birds with one stone, and it's much easier to work with.
Can you bolt them on with the rest of the xj ?
- Location
- San Diego
zipties and duct tape work the best when dealing with cherocar unibodies.
Get the good zip ties from Tractor supply not harbor freight .
cherokeefan_1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North idaho
Has anybody read the NHRA rules regarding cages? There's good info in the book. And it's designed to keep you alive in high speed roll overs. Question, for those using hrew vs DOM have you had the seams split when bending if you don't keep the seam on the inside of the bend? What radius dies are you mostly using with 1.75 tube? I'm building the takacs trike style bender where tube is bent verticle rather than horizontal. Any thoughts about that style bender when doing longer multi bend tubes?
- Location
- San Diego
I run my jd2 vertical. my 1.75" die is 6.5"CLR. I have never thought about where the seam is while bending HREW. but I mostly use DOM. its hardly any more expensive and I have found that not all HREW is perfectly round, so it doesn't sit in the die quite right.
Again...there is a weld seam on DOM tube just like there is on HREW it is just not very visible on the DOM . I have crushed both DOM and HREW in thin .120 a few times and the weld was still intact . You will destroy the tube before the weld us an issue .
HREW about $2.75 per foot for 1.75 .120 and DOM same spec is $5.00 per foot ...that's nearly double .
cherokeefan_1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North idaho
Around here DOM gets a premium. Kinda why I asked about splitting hrew. I've always heard it can split if it's not on the inside of the bend but if others are not having issues then I won't worry. I'll probably use 1.75 x .188 for safety stuff
- Location
- San Diego
OutkastBoss
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Saint louis
It was a marginal amount here as well.
Anyways I am back from Winterfest and will be going over my pics To see what I didn't lose as far as the building process. Either way I got some good shots at WF so I will share some soon.
As far as the d.o.m. vs Hrew conversation I would appreciate it being taken to a new thread as it is off topic at this point in my "first cage build". Feel free to start a thread or revive one of these two,
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1134769
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100805&page=2
If not anyone interested in the build should just keep an eye on the build thread. Will be updating it finally again very soon.
