Faster Jeep

[TriZZle904]

i had the same reaction when i saw that hemi post...maybe if i won some money or robbed a bank..lol

 

[Eagle]

so if i have RWD i only have to do the back axle?

Correct

 

[Ed A. Stevens]

i was going to do most of the suggestions... including finding out about how to buy or getting shop to make me a custom one but just not in th near future... i just wanted something somewhat "cheap" to do now unil i start the other stuff in november... im still spending money on the exterior.. and then im going to interior

How fast do you want to go?

What kind of competition: 1/4 mile ET, or top speed, or what kind of car do you want to beat (and in what kind of race)? Is the priority a fast car, or a cool car (with custom interior, paint, and sound system)?

What do you consider "cheap"? What is the budget?

Fast is not "cheap." It's easy to forget this when discussions begin, and when you spend a few hundred dollars (here and there) months apart, but if you truly want to go fast do not spend (waste) any money until you have a complete plan. Keep the vehicle engine stock until you have the cash to make the modifications you want (this is very important if the XJ is a daily driver).

The two things mentioned that provide the most street performance enhancement are lower ratio axle gears and forced induction (supercharger or turbocharger).

If your XJ is 2WD and you do not drive long trips the gear change can be done anytime and will only reduce the fuel mileage as the tradeoff for quicker acceleration. This is the cheapest results for dollar spent modification you can make (~$500 for more than a second off the 1/4 mile ET).

Forced induction will result in the greatest power increase, but it is not something to install on an incremental basis. There are many reasons for this: a normal header will not fit a custom turbo, you may not need a larger TB with a blower (redundant), the best echaust for a blower system is larger than the ideal for natural aspiration (why buy exhaust twice), injectors may be different from that needed for a supercharger or turbocharger (do you plan for an injector collection), a performance chip may not work with a blower (more to throw away), the accessories on the engine change with each modification, and if the current engine has significant mileage you will want to rebuild it during the process (this takes the vehicle out if action for a week even if you have a plan).

You can spend a large quantity of your money in little steps, very quickly, and have to spend even more dollars trading up to get what you really want (if you catch the speed-racer bug). This process may seem cheap, with only a few dollars spent each month, but over a year it's more expensive for the performance improvement.

The alternative is to plan and have the money set aside to do the mechanical improvements in one big step, and go race the stock vehicle in the short term (to acquire the driving skills needed to match the power increase you plan to install). This also provides you time to decide if the long-term goal is "fast" or "cool." This may seem to be a strange question (fast is cool, right), one that makes more sense as you find what you want to accomplish.

What is your priority list? What do you want the XJ to look like (in two months, and in two years)? How fast do you want to go? What is the budget?

 

[MudDawg]

Nitrous is a possibility...if all you want to do is blast past somebody on the street...but you would need some engine mods for it to stay together, and a very good controller, and a fuel cell for the gas you would need to use with the nitrous. Hmmmmm...no easy answers or cheap ones. There are a lot of good suggestion above that will give you more power.Besides, XJ's were never intended to go fast...but i like the turbo idea..

 

[mattk]

Try a '99 up intake. Rumor has it that they're good for 15-20 hp above 2000 rpm. I hear that they can be had for around 200$. Ten bucks per horsepower is hard to come by these days.
mattk

 

[TriZZle904]

Eagle, right now my priority is exterior... rims, bodykit, grill, paint etc... il be finished with the exterior by september then i start on interior and sound system and ill be done w/ that by march... from then on out it will be primarily performance, power, speed, etc... i dont have a set budget so i wuz just looking for some prices to be thrown out to be not cheap but lower prices than normal for certain upgrades... "most cluck for my buck"... mainly i just want to be able to beat my friends... stock 93 mazda mx6, and stock 92 honda civic... other than that im not really sure... what kindof plan would you suggest for a 1995 Cherokee sport rwd 150,000 miles.?? I know several things in the engine have already been replaces but id have to ask my dad for specifics... the way u explain the money situation i figure itz best to save my money when im finished "cool" until the end of next summer and start then...

 

[REDXJ4FUN]

s i posted before You can't beat simple basic hot rodding it woun't hurt you motor in any was and it basicaly improvesif you can controll the urge it will save you fuel. But brfoe you try adding evry gaget under the sun that has alsorts of claims make sure what you have is running its best to begin with. Just like people saying that "these splitfire plugs made a huge diffrnce its un realy how much power they added to my motor" well what kinda shape were the plugs they had in it to begin with.the things like a larger TB and intake are simple thigns that even when your done with them you can sell them.I've only been messing with xjs for about 8 years now and i am on my forth one and have tried alsorts of diffrent mods and still have more to go. I ought a g-tech meter so i can start with a stock xj and have real numbers to see what realy works and what dosent. There are somany diffrent thigns that affect performance that if you don't get diffrent mods to work together there not doing you any good. as soon as i get some time to figure that dang little meter thing out i'll post some numbers on diffrent mods. I know it sounds like i'm ranting but I grew up working on cars and i have spend alot of time and money finding out how to make them faster and better and when i hear some people talk about all of these snake oil products that claim this and that it wears on me. and I just want to help peopl from making missakes since I've made my fair share of them. I broke many parts and wasted plenty of money on things that just don't work like claimed. One of those things is a jacobs ignition for my 1 ton chevy. biggest waste of money yet. i got better milage out of the stock coil with thier wires than with thier spark control box and coil figure that out for me. ok i'm done than you and good night.

 

[TriZZle904]

thanx... please let me know what works together and what doesnt work with what.. ive only been into XJs for maybe a month or 2 so i know about the least anyone could possibly know about them

 

[Eagle]

TriZZle --

I've been away from racing so long that I don't pay any attention to "cars" any longer, so I honestly have no idea at all how fast a Mazda MX6 might be -- nor do I know if your pal has modified his to make it faster than a stock vehicle.

The best I can offer is send you back to read Ed Stevens' post again -- several times. To that, let me add a basic fact: A stock XK weighs about 3400 pounds empty. Add a driver, some accessories, and whatever you normally carry, and you're pushing close to 4,000 pounds. Your friends rice rockets must weight about half that, plus they are considerably more aerodynamic.

Next point: the rice rockets have short-stroke, high RPM engines. The XJ is an engine designed in the mid-60s. Yes, the computer and fuel injection are newer, but the basic engine is a 40-year old design. It's a long stroke engine -- it makes torque, not horsepower. It's reliable as all get out, and it pulls stumps, but it does not rev up quickly like you'd want a drag racert to do. What I'm getting at here is that you don't have a very ideal platform for drag racing.

I'm also hesitant to suggest improvments that will help some, because I don't know where you plan to take on your buddies. Are you going to a sanctioned drag strip to face off, or are you planning on going at it on a city street some Saturday night? Did you read about the recent trial of two dudes in California who were street racing and killed somebody who happened to be driving in the neighborhood they were racing through? I believe they were originally charged with murder and wound up being convicted of vehicular manslaughter. They'll probably do hard time.

If your goal is to beat your pals, the best way we can help you is if you tell us what they turn in a quarter mile drag, then we can advise you if it's possible to beat that with an XJ and, if so, how to do it. However ...

i wuz just looking for some prices to be thrown out to be not cheap but lower prices than normal for certain upgrades...

There's no such thing as "lower prices than normal for certain upgrades." Things cost what things cost. Sure, if you price a particular part or accessory at 5 shops you'll get some range in prices, but as an order of magnatude they'll all be in the same ball park. Replacing or rebuilding an engine isn't cheap -- you really can't afford to cut corners when you start modifying for speed.

Like Rich Pierson says in his sig line, "Fast, good, cheap -- pick any two. Anything else is a waste of my time and your money."

 

[TriZZle904]

there is a highway that is deserted past 1130... there is a portion of it unfinished that is supposed to go somwhere else some time in the future but it measures about a mile and a half of "closed" road.... for some reason the road has a spray paint start and finish ....thatz where we were gonna race.... their car are stock for sure.. the honda has a muffle but only 102 hp(not including whateve the muffler did) the mazda is at 164 hp... and im at 190 hp assuming the specs on these cars are accurate(edmunds.com) considering what u said about the weight they might not be accurate cause it said he curb weight of the jeep was 2932 lbs...

 

[M. Lake]

If you want real cheap, go find an old chevy with a 350 and carb. The only wires that go to the motor are starter and coil hot wire. Find a wrecked truck with a good motor and put the whole driveline in the XJ.

Then do the body and suspension kit. It would suck to do body first and then add about 200 lb to the front and drop you down to low. Then you can redo front suspension.

 

[1986xj]

At 150k a 4.0 really should be in decent shape still.... but it might be a bit tired. If you've got the budget for a rebuild then stroke it, it won't really add much cost to the rebuild and will really give you substantial power gains.
For details join here -
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/strokers/
and just lurk there for a while.
Mike B.

 

[Eagle]

and im at 190 hp assuming the specs on these cars are accurate(edmunds.com) considering what u said about the weight they might not be accurate cause it said he curb weight of the jeep was 2932 lbs...

The 190 HP is correct, but the weight probably isn't. I confess I forgot you have a 2WD, but it's still heavier. The oldest factory literature I have is for 1999. 2-door, 4.0L, 2WD weighs 3,177 lbs with an automatic. 4-door weighs 3,218 lbs.

That's all I'm going to say. Your chosen drag strip is not a legal or a safe place for you to race and in good conscience I can't encourage you to kill yourself -- or your friends.

 

[dan f.]

have you raced the civic at all? i raced my buddy's '02 civic and beat it without any problem and with no engine mods. if all you want to do is beat them for fun, try it first as you are. if you win, you can say you beat the ricers w/ a stock jeep, and if you lose just tell them you're driving a stock jeep...of course you lost.

 

[Bones]

1986xj, "If you've got the budget for a rebuild then stroke it, it won't really add much cost to the rebuild and will really give you substantial power gains."

Mike,
First of all this isn't meant to pick on you so don't take it that way. I just want to clear up a common misconception (having had it myself until experience slapped me in the face ).

While I agree that a stroker will give "substantial power gains" it is not just a little more than a standard engine rebuild!

To build a good long rod stroker motor you need a good base to work with. Checking the soundness of the block adds cost to the block prep. Then there is the proper decking of the block to ensure proper quench which adds even more cost over a stock rebuild because of the frequent mocking up. This all changes the valve train geometry so add custom length push rods. Now since you are building this thing for power how about those bigger valves or SS valves with back cut stems and a ported head to feed in more air for the added cyl volume(more $$$ over stock). Don't forget custom forged pistons ($600 +) where Silvolites would probably be <$150. Oh and then there is the stronger rod bolts in the prepped rods and the balancing of rods and slugs. Wouldn’t it be nice to add (or keep) that main cap girdle? Add a set of custom machined spacers for it to work (though Mike now lists them mine were the custom set that started their production). Now with the added seat pressure of those larger valve springs to close those bigger valves you really should go to a double true roller timing chain to turn that higher dollar big bumpstick. Crap, now it sounds like you are going to run lean with those tiny stock injectors. Gotta get those big Ford SVO 30lb injectors (another couple hundred). OK we have to get the spent gas out with a a Borla header (it's how much? ) because it’s the only one that can be wrapped for decreased under hood temps without voiding the warranty. Don't forget new bomb proof motor mounts to hold down the increased torque. Now we have to keep it cool. FlowKooler crap or HESCO rape, you chose, but figure another 100-200 clams PLUS a new radiator cause that stock one core isn't going to cut it. Oh, don’t forget the bored throttle body and open element filter set up (more money gone)….. The list goes on, and on, and on.

I admit I sold my wife on the idea that since I had to replace a crank and at least one rod anyway it “wouldn’t be that much more to do a stroker”. I actually believed that at the time. What a rude slap in the face! When all the post build problems are worked out (I will admit I have had more than the average post build problems), and my wants and needs for my vision are fulfilled, I figure I will have nearly $4.5K in my motor when the receipts are totaled. I could have dropped in a re-built long block for about $675 + s&h after core return.

Now if only I could afford that blower….

Bones :anon:

 

[bchulett]

TriZZle --

To that, let me add a basic fact: A stock XK weighs about 3400 pounds empty. Add a driver, some accessories, and whatever you normally carry, and you're pushing close to 4,000 pounds. Your friends rice rockets must weight about half that, plus they are considerably more aerodynamic.

If your goal is to beat your pals, the best way we can help you is if you tell us what they turn in a quarter mile drag, then we can advise you if it's possible to beat that with an XJ and, if so, how to do it.

"There's no satisfactory substitute for cubic inches"

A 3,400 pound XJ and 528ci Hemi with 610hp will get ya down the 1/4 mile somewhere in the mid 11's @120 mph---that's assuming you have the right stuff and whevos to stay on the motor through the traps. Personally, I wouldn't waste the time or money making an XJ faster or quicker than anything else other than another XJ..... wouldn't be the most popular ride at the drags... not to mention they don't stop at speeds above 60 mph.

I say drop it.... make it a pro solo ride. Ya know, they used to run a Jeep truck class in SCCA years back.... they're pretty fast around corners.

 

[KarmirXJ]

dont want to sound like a d|ck but...
If you want a faster more powerful car, ditch the XJ and buy a sports car.
I wounder how many times your going to be going over 75mph with your XJ... and who ever does is a fool because its going to get you in trouble quick, both with the cops and your health

just my .02

 

[TriZZle904]

so im lookin at $4.5k for the stroker rebuild but how much is that 4.5k gonna help?

 

[1986xj]

so im lookin at $4.5k for the stroker rebuild but how much is that 4.5k gonna help?

His engine is way overbuilt, sounds like it was built for running in a JEEPSPEED race series XJ. Nothing wrong at all with that, he's just spent a lot more so he'll be able to squeeze those last few ponies out of his (those last few HP are always the expensive ones )
I've never built one myself but a basic stroker is just a mix of 4.0 and 4.2 parts, from my best estimate $1,500 -$2,000 should easily build one.... actually much less if you can find a good junkyard 258 core that doesn't require any or much machine work.
Mike B.

 

[TriZZle904]

so after i get a stroker and fix what needs to be fixed replacements etc. this is what i plan to do ... let me know whats wrong with it or what should i change or get rid of...

Cold Air Intake
Gibson Cat Back Exhaust
Gibson Shorty Headers
Helix Throttle Body Spacer
MSD Ignition
8mm Plug Wires
Bosche Platinum Series spark plugs
Upgraded Fuel Pump & Lines