Exhausted...leaking manifold

[rpraterxj]

:repair:

Hey gang,

I have developed an exhaust leak. It is up high somewhere along the manifold. I am not sure if it's the gasket or a crack. I have 57K miles on it.

What is the best way to check for the leak?

I need input on repairing or replacing. If it's a crack, should I have it repaired or just replace it with an aftermarket header? What header is better? Will I notice any performance gains with a header?

I am told by a friend that works at a muffler shop that this will cost abotu $1000 for a shop to repair, due to the intake and all of the labor.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Robert

 

[GSequoia]

Give me the $1,000 and I'll replace it for you!

A header is a good way to go if your manifold is shot but I'd check the torque first. I thought my manifold was cracked for the longest time, when it came time to change my cylindar head (it was cracked) I found that about 60% of the bolts for the manifolds were finger tight - if that.

Just torque them down and see if that helps first.

Sequoia

 

[Clean Racing]

Robert.

I can fix that for you for a quarter of the price you have been quoted. I will even teach you how to do it if you like... give me a call...

Scott.

 

[5-90]

First, check torque on everything - including the collector bolts (mine like to wiggle loose...)

I just retorque all my manifold bolts about once a year now - and that seems to handle the problem. I usually only have to make about a half-turn to "click" the wrench, but it forestalls gasket burnout nicely and is good preventive maintenance. This is a fairly common issue with I6 engines - mainly due to the long sealing surface. It isn't helped by the retention of an aluminum manifold and an steel exhaust flange - since aluminum expands two or three times as fast as steel...

Here are a few things to try if and when you replace your manifold gasket -
Order silicon bronze bolts from Fastenal - they're worth it. The steel bolts will not only gall in the iron head, but the steel gets incrementally softer as it gets heat-cycled. The bronze gets incrementally harder, and therefore won't "creep" as much.
Belleville Spring Washers. Get them. The dish-shaped washers that come with the manifold are there for a reason - but they get weak after a while. Get a box of 3/8" Bellevilles from MSC Direct - www.mscdirect.com
LocTite 272 - it's the only one that stands up to exhaust heat. Use it.
Gasket coating - I usually use a thin layer of RTV Copper on both sides of the gasket - it helps when the bolts start to wiggle loose (can't get away from that - its' the differential expansion that gets us...

If I think of anything else offhand I'll let everyone know...

5-90

 

[rpraterxj]

Just ordered a Banks Torque Tube. Shoudl receive it in a coupel of days.

Anyone want to help tackle this?

Thanks,

Robert

 

[johnnyc]

I can help with the install. Just did Lockwood's last month, so it's still fresh in my mind.

 

[Clean Racing]

Robert.

I am game to help out with this install...should be easy...

 

[rpraterxj]

Thanks Johnny & Scott. I will let you know when it arrives then we can plan the install.

Thanks,

Robert