E-code H4 headlight conversion with comparison pics Cheaper than Silverstars

Just to throw something out there...

Which of these systems will put up with off-roading? In particular, being submerged? The stock stuff is good for that. H4 bulb upgrade, passable I guess. These Autopal housings have a good fit around the bulb?

The HID stuff?
 
You're wasting your money and your time with Autopals, Hella and IPF
I've cracked Hella's with 100watt bulbs and not been impressed with IPF's.
The best H4 200mm lamp for build quality and light output is Cibie and that's why they cost more. I was using those before I did an HID retrofit.

Hm... The Cibies might be the way to go then. I'll have to look into them more if you say they stand up to the temperature difference better.
 
Just to throw something out there...

Which of these systems will put up with off-roading? In particular, being submerged? The stock stuff is good for that. H4 bulb upgrade, passable I guess. These Autopal housings have a good fit around the bulb?

The HID stuff?

I don't know about the HID stuff but the Autopal's have a rubber grommet around the bulb housing to keep them watertight.
 
I don't know about the HID stuff but the Autopal's have a rubber grommet around the bulb housing to keep them watertight.

Same with the cibies. I put a bit of dielectric grease to seal it better. The head lights have been only submerged once, but no water got in.
 
Yeah I wouldn't submerge anything but a sealed beam, old sealed beams can be kept as spares and screwed back in for off roading. It litterally takes 5 minutes to swap them.

That said the rubber boot is thick and resists being pushed on nicely enough that I wouldn't be afraid to pack it with dialectric zinc paste (like Jeep used to do with the universal jeeps lighting up to the YJ)... That rubber boot is not water tight if submersed but it's definitely 100% against splashing, you really have to push it on it's not flimsy at all IMO, and would hold grease in just fine, now how much heat the dialectric grease can put up with is another matter...
 
Maybe get some of that silicone formulated clear brake grease? It's supposed to withstand a million degrees and is pretty sticky stuff. Just keep it away from the connections I guess.
 
I've read every post in this thread and decided the Autopal was the most cost effective decision for lighting. I plugged one in and left an old one on and it's just night and day between the two. I'm only running the default bulbs he includes. I think they were the 60/55's.

The lights I had on the XJ were the "Sylvania Performance" sealed beam's, and they were less than $10 a piece at Walmart. While they were a huge improvement over my hazed Wagners, I'm glad I spent $40.99 on these E-Codes. They're much better than anything I've tried before.

Thank you 1bolt for taking the chance in the first place to find out how these were. :worship:
 
There will be a sale on 12 ga. wiring harness for h4 kits in june is anyone is interested, $40 shipped, just an FYI.
 
Do the harness and bulb upgrade, and you'll knock your socks off twice as much.

More than likely it will help, and its required if you want to run higher wattage bulbs. If you have a voltmeter, you can measure the voltage at the headlight versus the battery voltage to get an idea of the improvement. A tenth of a volt difference is neglible. More than a volt will be a noticeable improvement.

Worst one I did was a motorcycle dropping 3 volts - that one went from yellowish and unable to see at night to very bright. It got even better with the 55/130 bulb.
 
I netted about 3.2 volts from mine if I remember correctly. HUGE improvements. Couple that with the new 140 watt bulbs and you truly will wonder how you stayed alive on te road at night before.
 
Bahaha that's a joke. There is a rubber grommet, but it's more or less a dust boot. Definitely NOT water tight.

Well of course its not gonna keep it water tight if you are fording 3 feet of water! If he is that worried he can use silicone! :dunno:
 
Well of course its not gonna keep it water tight if you are fording 3 feet of water! If he is that worried he can use silicone! :dunno:

Yeah, I'm just concerned about water splashing the lights either front or back when doing a controlled water crossing.

That said, unexpected things can happen. I have dropped a vehicle into a hole and ended up with the nose of the truck a few feet under water for an extended period of time.
 
Yeah, I'm just concerned about water splashing the lights either front or back when doing a controlled water crossing.

That said, unexpected things can happen. I have dropped a vehicle into a hole and ended up with the nose of the truck a few feet under water for an extended period of time.

Even if water gets in, the worse that will happen is the bulb blows. Just use your offroad lights if it comes to that.

You should be more concerned about the alternator getting wet, considering how low and unprotected it is
 
Agreed. Just making the list of what goes in the boonie box (alt already there).
 
Yeah, I'm just concerned about water splashing the lights either front or back when doing a controlled water crossing.

That said, unexpected things can happen. I have dropped a vehicle into a hole and ended up with the nose of the truck a few feet under water for an extended period of time.

Yes they can! I could see it getting expensive if you burn up some HID stuff!
 
Jeep got a bit smarter with the TJ and I think 2000 or 2001 they reversed the alt and ac compressor. That says to me there is a pulley system that would allow anybody to do the same on the XJ.
 
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