E-code H4 headlight conversion with comparison pics Cheaper than Silverstars

Yes if you do it corectly and use looms, route the wires correctly, use caution and care around other parts, and splice the right way - it should pass. But a lot of people on here, no offense, do things a little less than OEM grade.
 
DanMan2k06 said:
Yes if you do it corectly and use looms, route the wires correctly, use caution and care around other parts, and splice the right way - it should pass. But a lot of people on here, no offense, do things a little less than OEM grade.

If done the right way, there's no splicing of the factory wires required. It's quite simple, and a 15-30 minute install depending on how you route the wires.
 
GhostDakota said:
This would expedite the burning process of the filiment, thus significantly reducing the bulb life. The heat would be extreme and most likely burn the filiment out within minutes (or less).
Hi/Low uses two seperate filiments
I really don't think anything other than a stronger draw would happen
 
TunaSoda said:
Hi/Low uses two seperate filiments
I really don't think anything other than a stronger draw would happen

Yes, two separate filaments in the same capsule. This would increase heat exponentially as well as fry your factory wiring due to the higher current draw.
 
GhostDakota said:
Yes, two separate filaments in the same capsule. This would increase heat exponentially as well as fry your factory wiring due to the higher current draw.
If the wiring could handle the wattage, I think the :idea: would be just fine
 
Could you just flip the lights upside down to change which side the prism pointed?

I'm not exactly sure but I know stock headlights can mount upside down....if you really wanted to.
 
TunaSoda said:
If the wiring could handle the wattage, I think the :idea: would be just fine

I've personally tested this before. They will blow extremely fast. I had a set of Silver Stars a few years ago. I popped on both the low/hi, held 'em like that to see how long they'd last for. Within 3 minutes, one side blew. Completely exploded the bulb.

I've had similar results with factory bulbs, among others, though it seems to take longer? I'm assuming this is 'cause they burn a little cooler.
 
Yea with sealed beam/h4 bulbs the "quad beam" is never a good idea. On s-10's and stuff it's a great idea because the two bulbs are completely seperate. Just not the cherokee's cup of tea.
 
GhostDakota said:
I've personally tested this before. They will blow extremely fast. I had a set of Silver Stars a few years ago. I popped on both the low/hi, held 'em like that to see how long they'd last for. Within 3 minutes, one side blew. Completely exploded the bulb.

I've had similar results with factory bulbs, among others, though it seems to take longer? I'm assuming this is 'cause they burn a little cooler.

Back in the day with my Jetta I used to drive around with the lever held in all the time and never had an issue with a bulb going out...
hmm

They were also factory bulbs...

Thank god I don't still drive a junka!
 
Blaine B. said:
What year?

We had an 82, it had dual bulbs.

I thought the newer ones had dual bulbs too.

It was a 96 Jetta GLS
 
RichP said:
Pray tell, where and when can you ever use high beams in NJ....OK, maybe the pine barrens. My dodge van had 7" cibies and 4 CIBIE super oscars, I blew the meters out at the inspection station in morristown when I forgot to put the covers on and left the switches in the on position when they asked for high beams :D FAILED.... I was glad the station manager was my first sergeant or I might have had to pay for the meters on that roll out thing they use.
The CIBIE's are in the TJ now and world of difference, as well as the Hella 500 fogs on the bumper, still trying to figure out where to mount my old super oscars.

Sorry, didn't see this sooner. I get some opportunities at night on the local roads in my county, rarely if ever on the highway. My neck of the woods can be rather quiet at night.
 
What's the difference between 'projector' and 'diamond cut' ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-01-JEEP-CHEROKEE-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHTS-H6054-H4_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33710QQihZ024QQitemZ370008537977QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-01-JEEP-CHEROKEE-DIAMOND-HEADLIGHTS-H6054-H4_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33710QQihZ024QQitemZ370008680101QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

And how can I tell if they are RHD/LHD? I need to upgrade my lights bad... we were coming home from playing the the snow Saturday night and my lights really really suck. Upgraded wires will come eventually but I want to put new lights in too and it's quick and simple...
 
GhostDakota said:
Yes, two separate filaments in the same capsule. This would increase heat exponentially as well as fry your factory wiring due to the higher current draw.

Two separate filaments means two separate wiring loops, so no additional draw on either loop, but some additional draw on your alternator. As for the heat, it would not be exponential by any means. You would have the heat from a 65 watt filament and then the addition of the 55 watt (which would be less than the 65 watt) for no increase in heat. The filaments burn at a given temperature, adding a second filament doesn't add to the temperature they burn at, much less increase by an exponential function. If you add boiling water to boiling water, the temperature of the water doesn't go up, it stays the same.
 
GhostDakota said:
I've personally tested this before. They will blow extremely fast. I had a set of Silver Stars a few years ago. I popped on both the low/hi, held 'em like that to see how long they'd last for. Within 3 minutes, one side blew. Completely exploded the bulb.

I've had similar results with factory bulbs, among others, though it seems to take longer? I'm assuming this is 'cause they burn a little cooler.

It's the glass that can't take the added heat of both filaments being on, not the filaments or the wiring harness.


sigmund said:
Two separate filaments means two separate wiring loops, so no additional draw on either loop, but some additional draw on your alternator. As for the heat, it would not be exponential by any means. You would have the heat from a 65 watt filament and then the addition of the 55 watt (which would be less than the 65 watt) for no increase in heat. The filaments burn at a given temperature, adding a second filament doesn't add to the temperature they burn at, much less increase by an exponential function.

True. It would not be an "exponential" increase in temperature, but the bulb would indeed get hotter.

sigmund said:
If you add boiling water to boiling water, the temperature of the water doesn't go up, it stays the same.

Think of it as two garage heaters. If you have a 65,000 BTU heater, then add a 55,000 BTU unit; your garage would certainly be warmer.
:dunce:
 
Could someone explain the difference between diamond cut and projector lenses? I posted on page 9 some that i'm looking at on eBay... thanks!
 
To be honest both of those look like junk. The projector as far as I can tell is just an added lense in the middle to focus the beam a bit and fudge the brightness numbers as measured in the center.

I can't quite tell, but it looks like the back may be plastic which would limit you putting in higher wattage bulbs. The faces do not have the nipples where an alignment tool would stick on. Nor do they DOT xxx written on them. Many inspection shops just look for the nips, thinking that means DOT compliant, and will fail you if they don't see them. Not sure if you have inspections down at your end of the state. Plus, I avoid buying from vendors that sell everything "as-is" and charge $25 shipping.

I'd recommend going with the AutoPal e-code headlights as mentioned several times already. With shipping, they are only a few bucks more expensive.
 
Diamond cut refers to the reflectors inside the housing, the projector is just what is says, they have somehow rigged a projector into the housing. Projectors are typically used on more expensive cars and with H.I.D. The cheap ebay ones are just that, cheap. You are better off getting Cinie if you ahve hte cash, or look into Autopal for the housings. for the harnes you can make one or by premade.
 
IIRC, those nipples aren't required anymore. We had a machine at the college I went to that aimed the new "nipple-less" lights. (Back in '02)
 
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