door sag/separation, welding question

87Mache, No check straps here. Since the TSB was for earlier models would they do anything for mine? I have Zero experience with the Jeep dealer here, so would it be SOP for them to do something, or tell me tough cookies?

Worst case scenario I'll wait for a nicer day and try to add some back bracing. It seems like the area where the pin goes in is wallowed out, but that was from a very cursory look... it's too damned cold right now to hang out and go through it (finally up to a balmy 10 degrees).

Other issue I have is I can't seem to get into 4Lo, done a search, but to no avail yet. Seems like it's blocked out.
 
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87Mache, No check straps here. Since the TSB was for earlier models would they do anything for mine? I have Zero experience with the Jeep dealer here, so would it be SOP for them to do something, or tell me tough cookies?

Worst case scenario I'll wait for a nicer day and try to add some back bracing. It seems like the area where the pin goes in is wallowed out, but that was from a very cursory look... it's too damned cold right now to hang out and go through it (finally up to a balmy 10 degrees).

Other issue I have is I can't seem to get into 4Lo, done a search, but to no avail yet. Seems like it's blocked out.
Pull an unstrapped door open as far as it will go, and look at what happens when the hinge hits its stop. You will quickly understand why you need the check straps.

For your 4 low, it might be as simple as a linkage adjustment. You might find the procedure with a search here, otherwise you should post back and get it. Of course you're going to have to crawl underneath to do it, but it doesn't take long. Although it's not a thoroughly accurate check, look at the TC lever. If it is not pretty much parallel to the floor when in 2 high, it's probably off.
 
This is my first post, the title of the thread caught my eye.

I saw a TV show called TRUCKS on cable TV where they did a Cherokee build they called " Cheap Cherokee " because it was done on a low budget.

They addressed this exact problem as the Cherokee they got had a bad hinge and the door was contacting the fender and causing damage.

What they did was make a plate with holes drilled through it and two nuts welded to the back. This plate was welded to the Cherokee where the hinge used to be. They they drilled two elongated holes in the hinge on the door and then bolted the door to the frame. This made the door ' adjustable ' and also made for a beefier mount.

This show is on Apples iTunes and I believe it was addressed in the first " Cheap Cherokee " episode.

Maybe this info will help someone.
 
Pull an unstrapped door open as far as it will go, and look at what happens when the hinge hits its stop. You will quickly understand why you need the check straps.

For your 4 low, it might be as simple as a linkage adjustment. You might find the procedure with a search here, otherwise you should post back and get it. Of course you're going to have to crawl underneath to do it, but it doesn't take long. Although it's not a thoroughly accurate check, look at the TC lever. If it is not pretty much parallel to the floor when in 2 high, it's probably off.

I totally understand the reason for the check strapps.
...Figured out the 4 Low, and it's embarassing. Didn't realize there was a gate and I had to push to the right. This weekend or next I'll work on the door, and post up results.
 
Yep yep, my '92 has it too. It's already been welded twice by the previous owner, the welds look like crap from being built up so much.. Was not happy to read its only from 93-97, but then again, I hate dealerships and its probably for the better since I don't want them touching my Jeep.

I'm going to take the doors off and plate the A pillars from the inside to not increase the angle that the doors close at and re-weld em up nice.


4LO problem might be because of linkage adjustment. Mine went out of whack and wont let me push the selector far enough forward to into 2WD now... (yay for 4wd Full Time). There are external stops on the selector which can cause this problem if the linkage gets out of alignment.
 
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Well, I figured it out. I removed (for the most part) the front fender. Then I notched around the hinge and prepared the body around the hole. I closed the door, spaced it up with a pair of cold chisels, and after lining everything up, I applied a constant pressure to the leading edge with a Ford Ranger pickup against a tire. I pulled up and killed the truck in gear with the tire between the bumper and the door.

This was to maintain the door seal clearance.

I welded it back in with my cheesy flux core machine and put the fender back on.

Gah, this was years ago. Nearly 80K miles later, it's still solid.
 
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