Does anyone sell threaded inserts locally?

[srmitchell]

I've got a 3 foot piece of DOM that Im going to make into a tie rod. (tgoff made one in eureka, it's BEEF.

I need two 3/4-16 inserts, left/right thread, designed to slip into 1 inch id tube. (1.5 inch od, 1 inch id.)

Got the steel locally, and I'd like to get the inserts before I go back up to school Saturday.

I like to buy local, I'm in San Mateo.

Thanks!

-Sean

 

[soxyfarmer]

Quickest way I can think of is Ruff Stuff Specialties. They are in the valley somewhere and it only takes a couple days from the click of the mouse to your doorstep. Sorry it's not some place you can just walk in and buy. Maybe somebody else can pipe in...

 

[JeepFreak21]

I've got a 3 foot piece of DOM that Im going to make into a tie rod. (tgoff made one in eureka, it's BEEF.

I need two 3/4-16 inserts, left/right thread, designed to slip into 1 inch id tube. (1.5 inch od, 1 inch id.)

Got the steel locally, and I'd like to get the inserts before I go back up to school Saturday.

I like to buy local, I'm in San Mateo.

Thanks!

-Sean

I bet PartsMike could get them to you before Saturday if you call this morning. He ships fast and is in Auburn, CA.
Billy

 

[Starboard M]

Quickest way I can think of is Ruff Stuff Specialties. They are in the valley somewhere and it only takes a couple days from the click of the mouse to your doorstep. Sorry it's not some place you can just walk in and buy. Maybe somebody else can pipe in...

Ruff Stuff is in Sac. I usually get my stuff from them within two days of ordering, but I dont know if that will help.

 

[playwithit]

Ruff Stuff is in Sac. I usually get my stuff from them within two days of ordering, but I dont know if that will help.

Pick em up. Dan's a nice guy. Plan on b.s.'n. He's got alot of knowledge and the prices are great. He is located off Sunrise and 50.

I guess they have moved.

3415 Swetzer Rd, Bay 10
Loomis, CA. 95650

 

[srmitchell]

Thanks guys. Called Dan, and he had them for 6 bucks each.

Thats half what poly performance wanted.

He said they'll be shipped to humboldt in 2 days.

Thanks!

 

[srmitchell]

Got the inserts today.

They fit the tube perfectly, and theres a nice bevel which will take the weld well.

Is there any need to drill holes in the tubing and plug weld the adapter? Or can I just do the perimeter?

 

[Starboard M]

Everything I have read says just weld the tube and adapter faces together.

 

[srmitchell]

Sweet.

That'll be cake.

 

[Letterman]

I am almost sure you know all this but . . .

Drilling a hole and putting in a rivet weld might be over kill . . . but it may help you sleep better at night. The Rubicon Express long arms and track bars have them, maybe all the arms that Rubicon Express makes have them. But I know for sure I have seen them on my long arms and on my track bar.

Be sure to put a grinder to the links, put a nice big bevel on it and clean it off to get rid of anything that will contaminate your welds. Most tube is shipped with a coat of stuff on it to help prevent rust, get that off and away from the area you are welding.

Sorry srmitchell if you already knew all of this, but it never hurts to post, maybe part of it is new to someone.

 

[Starboard M]

I am almost sure you know all this but . . .

Drilling a hole and putting in a rivet weld might be over kill . . . but it may help you sleep better at night. The Rubicon Express long arms and track bars have them, maybe all the arms that Rubicon Express makes have them. But I know for sure I have seen them on my long arms and on my track bar.

Be sure to put a grinder to the links, put a nice big bevel on it and clean it off to get rid of anything that will contaminate your welds. Most tube is shipped with a coat of stuff on it to help prevent rust, get that off and away from the area you are welding.

Sorry srmitchell if you already knew all of this, but it never hurts to post, maybe part of it is new to someone.

At the same time, I have not seen anyone do this while building links. Granted, this is me watching builds on the intardnet, so take that for what its worth.

FYI
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=726565

 

[Letterman]

At the same time, I have not seen anyone do this while building links. Granted, this is me watching builds on the intardnet, so take that for what its worth.

FYI
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=726565

Never trust anyone on the intardnet!

But I did not put any rivet welds in my arms ether:

 

[srmitchell]

That's actually very helpful.

I'm here to learn, not act like I know sh**. (well some times. haha)

Would 2 welded plugs be enough?

And more importantly, what type of weld should I do? (Pirate says tig)

 

[Letterman]

I beleave my old Rubicon Express only had on rivet weld, but I could be wrong on that (Anyone know?)

The point to a plug weld is like putting a bolt into it to hold it together better then just a weld on the seem. Two is better then one, but as has been said here, even one might be over kill.

You don't have to go tig but if you can I would tig it. Mig and Flux are fine for this job, remember that with Mig the gas cools the welding, so if you are pushing the limit of a 110 it is better to run with fluxcore wire then with gas. Make sure your welds are clean and you are getting the metal hot enough for the thickness of the metarial. I use a 220 for all links, and I burn very hot, if a tie rod fails at speed it could be very ugly!

I put a bolt into the threads to help keep them straight when the metal gets hot, and also to keep any splatter off the threads, you can also run a tap just to make sure the theads are good.

Are you welding this yourself?

 

[srmitchell]

No. I've got a guy in arcata who does welding for a local lumber mill.

He's a pro, and does awesome work. He did my stiffeners for 75 bucks. (And like 5 hours of work.)

I'm not sure what he has access to besides his mig, and stick welder.