Denver-Metro, where do you get alignment???

Hypoid

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
Golden, CO
I searched, but not much here for recommendations. I decided to start a thread that would hopefully be an easy search. What I am after is a list of shops that seem to provide a competent service. Please include the month/year of your visit, and level of modification to your vehicle.

For example:

In September of 1995, I took my stock F-100 4 wheel drive to Bear Frame and Axle on South Broadway. The price was competetive. They took me as a walk-in and had me out in reasonable time. The tech who worked on my vehicle told me I needed new U-Joints. I trust them more than the kid at Big-O Tires.

Link to Bear's website: http://www.bearframe.com/

Bear has been recommended a few times in this forum. My last experience was over ten years ago. Including a time frame will help determine any trends or changes in quality of service.

So post up! What shop do you use?

TIA, Mike
 
I've just been going to the Midas up the street. They frequently have a $49.99 alignment coupon on their website. I've aligned 3 XJ's using that deal and that particular Midas and have been very happy with the quick turn around, and alignments. 2 of those XJ's were lifted requiring that the track bar be adjusted. They didn't have a problem with doing it and didn't charge extra.
 
Well, bear frame and axle is an excellent shop. If I want it done to my specs or something a little unusual I go there, for the heep I go to steele tire here in castle rock.
 
I do mine in my driveway... camber and caster aren't adjustable on the XJ, so you're only worried about toe. Draw a chalk line on both front tires on both the leading and trailing edges, measure and adjust until you are a hair under 1/4" toe in. Been doing it for years and my tires don't wear funny (plus, its free and I'm a cheap bastage!)
 
I do mine in my driveway... camber and caster aren't adjustable on the XJ, so you're only worried about toe. Draw a chalk line on both front tires on both the leading and trailing edges, measure and adjust until you are a hair under 1/4" toe in. Been doing it for years and my tires don't wear funny (plus, its free and I'm a cheap bastage!)


Actually you can get adjustable cam bolts for the lower arms to set caster. Distance from back to front can be adjusted with the adjustment at the back of the LCA frame mount. Can not forget to mention there is the aftermarket LCAs & UCAs that are adjustable..........so yes you can adjust the caster.

Then you can get adjustable ball joints to adjust the camber :D

1/16 I believe is the redneck measurement, Toe in on coil sprung control armed vehicle and 1/16 toe out on leaf sprung vehicles.

XJ-grin is right, set you toe in the driveway, although the chalk line is not so accurate............?

I made a redneck alignment tool, consisted of a a rod that fits inside a tube with one end cut with a slit and a clamp to tighten. Pick a spot on the front of the tire and a spot in the back of the tire in a horizontal line. Mark the line on the back side then repeat for front with a different color marker and measure the difference and adjusting until it is 1/16 toe in. party1:
 
Actually you can get adjustable cam bolts for the lower arms to set caster. Distance from back to front can be adjusted with the adjustment at the back of the LCA frame mount. Can not forget to mention there is the aftermarket LCAs & UCAs that are adjustable..........so yes you can adjust the caster.

Then you can get adjustable ball joints to adjust the camber :D

1/16 I believe is the redneck measurement, Toe in on coil sprung control armed vehicle and 1/16 toe out on leaf sprung vehicles.

XJ-grin is right, set you toe in the driveway, although the chalk line is not so accurate............?

I made a redneck alignment tool, consisted of a a rod that fits inside a tube with one end cut with a slit and a clamp to tighten. Pick a spot on the front of the tire and a spot in the back of the tire in a horizontal line. Mark the line on the back side then repeat for front with a different color marker and measure the difference and adjusting until it is 1/16 toe in. party1:

true on cam-bolt caster adjustment -- I tend to forget since i am a radius arm guy now! I'm trying to picture your tool, but I'm not that creative... any pics/diagrams?
 
true on cam-bolt caster adjustment -- I tend to forget since i am a radius arm guy now! I'm trying to picture your tool, but I'm not that creative... any pics/diagrams?


Literally a tube that does not go all the way wheel to wheel and a matching rod that slips inside the tube. One end of the tub I made a slit and put a clamp on it to tighten it up. ..........I will take pictures of it tonight for you visual people :looney:
 
Literally a tube that does not go all the way wheel to wheel and a matching rod that slips inside the tube. One end of the tub I made a slit and put a clamp on it to tighten it up. ..........I will take pictures of it tonight for you visual people :looney:

Got it -- it is essentially a stiff measuring tape that you can compare front to rear... good idea.
 
I always go to Accu-Tech Automotive. The owner John has always imppresed me with his service. He is just one block ewast of Pecos on 70th Ave. Give him a call 303 427 4806. I always take my heep there if the job is too big for me!
 
I do mine in my driveway... camber and caster aren't adjustable on the XJ, so you're only worried about toe. Draw a chalk line on both front tires on both the leading and trailing edges, measure and adjust until you are a hair under 1/4" toe in. Been doing it for years and my tires don't wear funny (plus, its free and I'm a cheap bastage!)

X2!
 
LOL...So guys, what is your thrust angle???

Call me cheap, call me Mr budget, but somtimes you just want to put it on a rack.

Radius arms and no caster adjustment? Boy did you get hosed!
 
LOL...So guys, what is your thrust angle???

Call me cheap, call me Mr budget, but somtimes you just want to put it on a rack.

Radius arms and no caster adjustment? Boy did you get hosed!

Actually, I built them myself, my caster is right where I set it at 4.5 degrees, and it works dandy.... put that in your thrust angle and smoke it!:roflmao::guitar:
 
Smoke a bad thrust angle??? Too unpredictable. Not to mention the thought of how you managed to skew it in the first place....

Ya know, I almost hijacked my own thread. Some other day I'll want to see those home-built radius arms. LOL
 
Link to Bear's website: http://www.bearframe.com/

My vote !! My last visit was 6-8 months ago. After my driveway adjustment I was prepared to pay full price on an adjustment and even more being that i just put on a RK 3-link and HD track bar/Bracket. They only charged me to check it ($20) being that I did get it into spec and were all intrigued about the set up.

Bear has done an alignment on every car I have owned that needed it done. It did help to have them right in the neighborhood too.
 
Smoke a bad thrust angle??? Too unpredictable. Not to mention the thought of how you managed to skew it in the first place....

Ya know, I almost hijacked my own thread. Some other day I'll want to see those home-built radius arms. LOL


Yeah, nothing home-built ever works... Its not like I drive it to work every day, and it sure wheels for shite...:rolleyes:
IMG_0309.jpg
 
Yeah, nothing home-built ever works... Its not like I drive it to work every day, and it sure wheels for shite...:rolleyes:


Post pics of how you made your frame mounts?

I have almost all the fixings to make my own long arms but have been debating on how to keep it cheap and solid on the frame side.

I was just going to plate the frame then add some heavy duty mounts and use some big 3" flex joints with a 5/8 bolt. Worked fine for my CJ coil over setup.
 
My frame mounts are a TnT Belly pan, reinforced for use with radius arms (like in their kits). My arms are off an early 90s Mitsubishi Montero, with large RE joints welded to the frame side. The setup ends up very similar to a FJZ80 landcruiser. I don't have any pics, but you can look at TnT's site and its pretty clear.
 
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